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Already have that setup. It's not the best design and it has issues. All the ShiftWorks kit does is shorten the throws between shifts to fit the 4th gear OD. It doesn't fix the factory issue of not having positive engagement with each gear. In non dual-gate mode, you can easily overshift and miss gears. In Dual-Gate mode, you are relying on a piece of sheetmetal detent to stop the shifter from overshifting. Plus the Dual-Gate shifter has a lot of "play" in it, even after it was rebuilt. It's not a precision design and leaves a lot to be desired. The ShiftWorks kit does not fix the Dual-Gate mode as the detents no longer match up with the gear selections.
Plus the factory Dual-Gate has NO reverse lock-out protection. I bet quite a few transmissions were sent to the afterlife because someone accidentally bumped the shifter into Reverse while driving. Of course, all modern vehicles have Reverse lock-out safety. When racing, it is easy to bump it too far and send it into Neutral or Reverse. The latter being catastrophic.
That is the entire point of the other gate...to keep from shifting into neutral and reverse.
But I get that the kit didn't work for your application. I hope that you can find what you're looking for.
ShiftWorks admitted the the setup does not fix the issue in the gate mode as the detents will not match the transmission gear selection. The ShiftWorks shortens the throws between shifts but it doesn't change the factory gate mode which are longer distances between shifts. In other words, the ShiftWorks allows all 4 forward gear engagement for overdrive transmissions but it fails to fix or address the problem of proper gate mode engagement. It only addresses 1 of 2 problems of installing an overdrive trans with a factory 3 speed Dual Gate shifter.
I guess one just has to leave the trans in Drive and one cannot use the gate mode for racing as it doesn't work properly when shifting.
The problems with the Shiftworks dual gate kit have been discussed here in detail. You're stuck with the three speed gate construction and top plate. The only fix is to adapt one of the long-out-of-production four speed dual gate shifters. Those go for stupid money when you do find one. Year One apparently has a stash. They are asking over $600 each.
The problems with the Shiftworks dual gate kit have been discussed here in detail. You're stuck with the three speed gate construction and top plate. The only fix is to adapt one of the long-out-of-production four speed dual gate shifters. Those go for stupid money when you do find one. Year One apparently has a stash. They are asking over $600 each.
Will that shifter actually fit in a factory 70-72 center console?
Will that shifter actually fit in a factory 70-72 center console?
I said "adapt". It is far from a bolt-in. I have seen it installed in a 67-69 console, however. I realize they have nothing in common with the 70-72 consoles.
I did some measuring and the Hurst Pistol Grip Shifter should fit in the center console area with very limited modifications. Looks like a pretty easy install.
ShiftWorks admitted the the setup does not fix the issue in the gate mode as the detents will not match the transmission gear selection. The ShiftWorks shortens the throws between shifts but it doesn't change the factory gate mode which are longer distances between shifts. In other words, the ShiftWorks allows all 4 forward gear engagement for overdrive transmissions but it fails to fix or address the problem of proper gate mode engagement. It only addresses 1 of 2 problems of installing an overdrive trans with a factory 3 speed Dual Gate shifter.
I guess one just has to leave the trans in Drive and one cannot use the gate mode for racing as it doesn't work properly when shifting.
Eh???? I got the right side gates to work perfectly with my 200-4r and 70-72 dual gate with the shiftworks package. Took some time dialing it in, but the 1/2/3 gates worked perfectly, then pulling left and forward into the "neutral" gap popped into 4th.
Sure, it ain't perfect, but if you've every looked at the gear selector mechanism inside the trans, well, perfect isn't required.
Eh???? I got the right side gates to work perfectly with my 200-4r and 70-72 dual gate with the shiftworks package. Took some time dialing it in, but the 1/2/3 gates worked perfectly, then pulling left and forward into the "neutral" gap popped into 4th.
Sure, it ain't perfect, but if you've every looked at the gear selector mechanism inside the trans, well, perfect isn't required.
When racing and the RPMs are climbing fast, the gate mode doesn't always positively engage. 1-2 is OK but 2-3 is really sloppy.
How did you tune it properly to make the 3rd gear detent match the transmission gear?
When racing and the RPMs are climbing fast, the gate mode doesn't always positively engage. 1-2 is OK but 2-3 is really sloppy.
How did you tune it properly to make the 3rd gear detent match the transmission gear?
Just took some experimentation with the location of the anchor (on the trans bracket) and the location of the retainer collar (on the cable). IIRC, the anchor is almost all the way forward in the bracket. All the gates worked great for me.
And I say "worked" because the band grenaded and chewed up the direct drum. Just pulled it and shoved it in a corner until I can figure out what to do with it.
Just took some experimentation with the location of the anchor (on the trans bracket) and the location of the retainer collar (on the cable). IIRC, the anchor is almost all the way forward in the bracket. All the gates worked great for me.
And I say "worked" because the band grenaded and chewed up the direct drum. Just pulled it and shoved it in a corner until I can figure out what to do with it.
There are only a handful of 2004R builders that are trusted in the racing circles. Making a 2004R last behind 600 ft.lbs takes special parts and a skilled builder. PM if you want to know of a good 2004R trans builder.
