This is just an informative note about said linkage. There was some discussion about this in another thread.
It appears that this linkage is accessible after dropping the pan. And there doesn't look to be any danger of the linkage falling into the trans when changing the cable. At least not on my '71 TH350.
A couple pics to illustrate:

Outside of trans...
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And inside....
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I hope this helps someone out

 

Great info link. Thank you for posting the pics - it makes the message very clear. Did you find out if the TH350 VIN derivative matches your car?

 

No danger in it falling in, the danger is snapping it when trying to install the cable end.

 

Not sure I understand that Eric. Isn't the cable end small enough to go through the casting port without side to side motion? The attachment point on the downshift lever should be able to loosened and pivot sideways to allow the offset end to seat properly?

 

Nor sure what you mean Allan. The trans # is in the VIN?

The linkage rod is shaped like a jog in the road and that jog rests just above the hole in the trans. It seems to be a simple matter of sliding the cable tab down and across the jog. THAT part seems a little sketchy but it must be the tab's housing that keeps it from slipping off once installed. This is the setup for mine, anyway.

 

No, what I mean is on the DS of the trans there should be a stamping, (horizontal surface above the pan) and the last 6 digits of the original cars VIN should be included there.

Probably the same for my 72.

 

[QUOTE=Allan R;705328]No, what I mean is on the DS of the trans there should be a stamping, (horizontal surface above the pan) and the last 6 digits of the original cars VIN should be included there.

I don't mean to be dense but DS? I'll check it out tomorrow.

 

Yes, the dog leg on the wire slips into the cable end, but you have to give the cable slight twist to get it in. I don't know how but people have broken the little rod that comes out the trans. You know some people can screw up a ball bearing with a feather.

 

Well to be fair, I've only messed with that linkage with the cable and tab out of it's sheath (since I had to cut it off). So as a sort of knock-on-wood, I'll go at it gently when I get the new cable. Cuz if anyone could screw up a ball bearing with a feather, it would be me

 

Is it reasonable to assume that the new cable will come with a new O-ring seal? I sure hope so.

 

[QUOTE=Macadoo;705401]DS is short for LHS... you need to brush up on your TLA's
j/k

Driver Side
Left Hand Side
Two [or Three] Letter Acronym

starting 1968 the engine and trans were required to be stamped with the VIN derivative. The four model and body style digits of the VIN were not used on the eng/trans, so

for a VIN of 344678M100123 = '68 442 convertible...

the trans and engine would be stamped "38M100123"

the model and body style "4467" are omitted.

So, if your trans stamp matches your VIN in the above manner, then that trans is original to the car.

 

Thanks Chris. Just got around to this tonight. Good explanation.

 

I wasn't putting you down Mac, and yes, the new cable should come with a new seal.

 

Putting me down?! No dude, I didn't take it that way at all. I actually meant that I won't be able to talk real-world experience until I actually put the new cable on. With just a short piece with no sheathing, it was very easy to hook up. That may not be the case with a complete cable.

 

[QUOTE=Octania;705435]Lol! And here I am scouring the trans section of the CSM looking for something that starts with D and S. The Downward Stroke mechanism, the Drain Sump, etc.

Thanks for the explanation. TTFN.

 

[QUOTE=Octania;705435]Looks like the original trans alright.
Trans = 31M176501
VIN = 342571M176501

I got the VIN from the Protect-O-Plate. I thought that was kind of cool

Thanks for the heads-up Allan.

 

Be aware that the flange on the new cable (where the bolt goes through into the trans) is about 1/4" thicker than the original. I spent ten minutes trying to get it to thread in until I realized the bolt wasn't even going in to the hole. 3/4" 1/4-20 grade five did the trick.

 

I'm not quite sure what this black plastic tube is for. It's not pictured in the CSM and , although I won't know until I get the engine back in, it looks like it may keep the gas pedal from returning all the way. It slides on the cable easily and seems to be a spacer of some kind.
Also, I don't seem to have the clip. I'll post in the WTB forum but would anyone have an extra for sale?

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