column shift crossbar question
column shift crossbar question
My car was originally a 350 single exhaust column shift. My question is is there a different crossbar maybe that they had on dual exhaust that might clear aftermarket headers, or does somebody make one or am I gonna have to modify my own? Won't shift beyond drive because lever hits top of header at that point.
I'll just get my console hooked up then. I just need the different bracket and whatever other hardware I need. Was planning on doing the conversion at a later date but looks like its now. Thank you.
Not intending to hijack, but it seems we may be in the same boat. I have already converted to floor shift/console, and now want to eliminate the column shift rod and linkage to unclutter the engine bay.
If I just remove the linkage will the column lock remain in neutral or 'drive', or do I have to rig up something to hold it in place?
If I just remove the linkage will the column lock remain in neutral or 'drive', or do I have to rig up something to hold it in place?
And yet, you did... 
In this case, however, your question is germane to the original post.
Once you remove the linkage rod, the column jacket can rotate. If it moves out of the PARK position, it will prevent your key from turning back to the LOCK position. Your bigger problem, however, is the neutral safety/backup light switch, which is on the column even in a floor shift car. You can pin the shift tube to the jacket with a small sheet metal screw near the base of the column to solve the jacket rotating problem, but that also locks the NSS in the PARK position and prevents the backup lights from working. You need to rig an aftermarket NSS and backup light switch on the console shifter if you remove the rod.

In this case, however, your question is germane to the original post.
If I just remove the linkage will the column lock remain in neutral or 'drive', or do I have to rig up something to hold it in place?
......You can pin the shift tube to the jacket with a small sheet metal screw near the base of the column to solve the jacket rotating problem, but that also locks the NSS in the PARK position and prevents the backup lights from working. You need to rig an aftermarket NSS and backup light switch on the console shifter if you remove the rod.
If the NSS is on the column even on a floor shift setup, then what is the purpose of the switch that goes on the floor shifter?
My backup lights go on, then off, as I transition from Park to Reverse (Floor shift 1970 TH400), and thought that the problem was the positioning of the NSS on the shifter. Do I have to worry about the linkage rod too?
My backup lights go on, then off, as I transition from Park to Reverse (Floor shift 1970 TH400), and thought that the problem was the positioning of the NSS on the shifter. Do I have to worry about the linkage rod too?
If the NSS is on the column even on a floor shift setup, then what is the purpose of the switch that goes on the floor shifter?
My backup lights go on, then off, as I transition from Park to Reverse (Floor shift 1970 TH400), and thought that the problem was the positioning of the NSS on the shifter. Do I have to worry about the linkage rod too?
My backup lights go on, then off, as I transition from Park to Reverse (Floor shift 1970 TH400), and thought that the problem was the positioning of the NSS on the shifter. Do I have to worry about the linkage rod too?
Looks like I have more studying to do and more parts to gather for conversion to floor shift. In the meantime I may just have a friend of mine fabricate me a new bar that will allow column shift to work and clear the header. Shouldn't be too difficult. I'll have to see if can find a previous thread that will tell me parts I need. I already have console and shifter with cable but no connectors for trans and no wiring for console.
The 65-70 Big Cars with Dual Exhaust had an equalizer with a hump in it to clear the xst pipe. Hard to find part. I made a jig that allows one to make this part out of a standard straight equalizer. Still have it. This part may or may not fit the A-body... but with a welder and some cutting tools, and spare parts, one certainly CAN make an equalizer rod that sits in the same places on each end, but has a hump to better clear a header pipe.
To me, this would seem to be the right way to fix your dilemma. Have all the correct backup lights and Park Lock features operational. Yes, you may have to adjust the equalizer link and the reverse lights switch position. Both pretty easy.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1085196...23311723894690
To me, this would seem to be the right way to fix your dilemma. Have all the correct backup lights and Park Lock features operational. Yes, you may have to adjust the equalizer link and the reverse lights switch position. Both pretty easy.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1085196...23311723894690
Last edited by Octania; Jun 26, 2013 at 03:36 PM.
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