How hard is it really to convert my cutlass to a manual 4-speed muncie. I have a '64 cutlass with an automatic tranny on console. Is it simply exchanging the tranny with the muncie and hooking up the linkages to a new pedal system? Never done it before on a car, so curious to see how difficult it is and what one has to go through in order to do it to this type of vehicle. Thanks.

 

It's relatively bolt-in with a couple of issues. First, most Olds motors that came from the factory with an automatic did not have the crank drilled for a pilot bearing needed for a manual trans. The options are to take the crank to a machine shop and have it drilled or to use one of the aftermarket conversion bearings. These conversion bearings sit in the recess in the crank where the torque converter pilot sits and support the input shaft of the manual trans. Unfortunately the input shaft must be shortened by 1/2" - 3/4" to fit. The other issue is the bracket that mounts the Z-bar to the frame. On the 64-67 cars this was welded on. Repros are available but must be welded in place.

The rest is just acquiring the parts and bolting it together.

 

How do I know exactly how big, where, and details about the pilot bearing hole in crank. Could this be explained more to determine if this motor at one time was originally fitted with a manual, cause the motor is from a '65, not my '64 auto. If it has this bored hole, then that would save me all the grief, no? Just don't know what I'm looking for I guess. Thanks Joe.

 

check mondello or dick miler racing i thought someone had a bearing to fit, crank with out machining, you will also need to cut or create a hump
in tunnel for shifter housing and to be able to move linkage,

 

Why can't you instead of cutting off the pilot shaft just drill out the 3/4 inches that you need for clearance and install the conversion bearing. You could do the drilling in place since it won't be anything critical ?

 

You can do that, and several folks have. Just be aware that drilling that hole in the crank with a hand drill is not easy, particularly if the engine is still in the car.

 

Thanks , Thats good to know that it has been done before. It would be worth the price of a new top quality drill bit to get the job done rather that having to pull the whole crank. Who is a good supplier for a quality conversion bearing, and what size is the hole for the input shaft . I'm assuming that the hole should be at least a few thousands larger than the input shaft.

 

Another issue could be lack of the threaded hole for the Z-Bar stud on the side of the block. Did all of the early motors have this hole?

 

I never had any trouble with my conversion bearing but I have heard of people that say they have locked up after a short time. It is not a very heavy duty looking piece. Drilling the crank is not easy. I used a new bit from the machine shop and it was still 45 min of sitting in one spot with the drill. I personally would pull the crank and have it machined for the correct bushing. I did the conversion on in my 330 because it was only temporary until a 455 was to be built.

 

I think they all were drilled untill 75 or 76.

 

Here is the drawing for drilling the auto crank

 

That will help, thanks

 

Of course, be aware that the drawing shows the machining for a pilot bearing. Your clearance hole does not need to be that large in diameter. The depth dimension is appropriate, however.