Hello, relative newbie here. I spent a solid half hour looking for an answer here (and elsewhere) without any luck before I decided to post.

I have a 1972 Cutlass S with all original 350/350 engine/trans. I have a built 200-4R from an 80’s Olds ready to put in, but am missing a torque converter (since obviously the TH350 one won’t work). I see a lot of people here have done the 200-4R swap, so my question is - where are you finding a 200-4R torque converter that bolts up to the original 1972 flexplate? Looking for about 2200-2500 stall.

Thanks!

 

All Olds engines use the standard GM flex plate bolt pattern, so any TH200-4R converter will work.

Summit
Jegs
Hughes Performance
B & M

 

Early (pre 85ish?) 700 converters are 27 spline input shafts and will interchange. The factory D5 Grand National/442/monte Carlo converter was factory rated at around 2500 (it would go to 2800 in the GN with boost) so that’s an option. Any reputable converter builder could build exactly what you want, or no doubt Summit/Jegs could sell you exactly what you want.

There are several option, take your pick!!

 

Thanks guys; I think I stumbled upon the answer; I’m looking for 10-3/4” dia mounting holes on the flywheel and 27 spline input. Looks like the TCs from early 700R4s fit the bill. I had seen some confusing information about different bolt patterns between the Chevy and the B-O-P flywheels that threw me off, but now I got it figured out.

 

Most aftermarket torque converters will have either the standard GM pattern or have multiple mounting holes. I, surprisingly, have yet to have a problem getting a converter to bolt to a flexplate.
Do be careful about the _spacing_ of the converter. You'll normally need to add some washers between the converter and flexplate as most swaps/aftermarket parts are intentionally made short to ensure there's enough room. You want to fully seat the converter then pull it forward only 3/16" or so to get it mated to the flexplate. Use washers to take up any extra space. Do NOT just pull the converter up to the flexplate, especially if there's a bit gap like 1/2" - various parts will disengage and you'll be in a world of hurt. This gets messier with the lockup converters because there's the lockup seal and the later year stuff (80's and later) seem to have less excess engagement.

 

Nearly all Olds flexplates have both torque converter bolt patterns.

 

I last used a 2200 to 2500 rated PATC converter. It flashes at 2350 rpm and feels stock at part throttle. Realize most aftermarket converters will bolt up but may need washers to take up some but not all the space. I bought an Oregon Performance 2000 to 2600 rpm, flashed at 2400 rpm. It imploded at the track after a couple of years use. I tried just sucking the converter tight to the flexplate, it poured out the front seal on start up. Their was room for 4 washers space wise, I used 3 and with no issues.