I always like to remind anyone that reads my post that I am new at all of this so please bare with me.

I'm having problems getting my 4 speed transmission back onto the bell housing. I've replaced the flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, pilot bushing and the T.O. bearing. I checked to make sure the spline slipped into the clutch disc and pilot bearing and everything is good there. I used an alignment tool when I installed the disc and pressure plate. Everything seems to be good to go. I've checked lengths so nothing should be bottoming out.

My question is this: Should the transmission (with a little bit of wiggling and finagling), mate up tight with the bell housing without tightening any bolts on the transmission? I watched a couple of videos that showed the installer getting the transmission to within about a 1/2" of the bell housing and then he started tightening down the bolts until the transmission was pulled up tight . My fear is that the front of the input shaft would be hitting the pilot bushing and would just push it in until the transmission was tight against the bell housing.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Rick

 

With a wiggle it should go all the way in. The alignment tools for disc dont always get it right. You cannot push the pilot bearing in any further as it only goes in so far. You could be having the trans input shaft bottom out in crank if it is not a factory stick crank and it was not drilled deep enough. Sometimes if a person presses the clutch while wiggling the trans it will go in. Sometimes too it helps to put a couple of long studs on bellhousing so you can just lift trans up and then slide it straight in without struggling with its weight. Dont try and pull the trans up tight by tightening the bolts.... been there and outcome was not desireable. Sometimes too you can make loose the bellhousing to engine bolts and wiggle everything to see if it slides in.

 

We may BEAR with you, but if you want to get nekkid, you're on your own...

 

Make sure the trans is in gear and then twist and wiggle it in.

 

This set up was just pulled out a few weeks ago so I know it should go back in. All I did was replace the parts described. I'm going to pull the clutch back out and see if I can get better alignment with the tool. If that doesn't work I'll try the clutch and loosening of the bell housing bolts that you suggested.
The tightening of the trans bolts to make it seat right just didn't seem right to me. Thanks for confirming that.

Rick

 

Believe it not Joe, I actually spelled it right the first time and changed it because I second guessed myself when I reread my post. Should have went with the original version.

Rick

 

Eric,
I'm assuming I would need to disengage the clutch so that the shaft spins correct?

Rick

 

No need to disengage the clutch, just move the tans arms so that it's in gear. If it is in neutral its harder to align because the input shaft will spin while your rotating the trans and not move in further. Make sure your going in somewhat level or you'll never get the input shaft through the pilot bearing.

 

Will do...Thanks Eric

 

There is some good advice in this thread. First, pull the clutch apart and check the disc for run-out so you know the disc is flat, no more than .0025 run out. It doesn't matter that it is new. If all is ok, then, re-assemble your clutch using the alignment tool or an old input shaft. Check and double check. What I like to do is put the trans in reverse using a wrench to turn the shift shaft selector.Next make two studs to screw in the bell housing to support the trans as you are installing the trans, turn the output shaft to engage the input shaft into the disc. DO NOT let the trans hang on the disc or it will bend. If the input shaft wont go in the pilot bearing, then, have some one press the clutch slightly, and at the same time slide the trans in. Last, make sure you have .030 air gap between the pressure plate and disc, and that is your adjustment. Hope this helps

 

This happen to me before. Make sure the clutch disc is aligned. When the trany is ready to be put in, I make sure its in gear, then I had my brother to step on the clutch and the trany went right in.

 

Thanks for all the tips guys. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Rick

 

Another thing to add since you put a new pilot bushing in, take an old input shaft and make sure it fits and spins in the bushing (don't trust the plastic disk allignment tool). When I did mine about six months ago I swedged the brass a little. I got everything back together and I could not get into any gear with the engine running. I had to pull everything and lap it out alittle, easy fix but frustrating.

Bill

 

This thread brings back many memories.


I spent 3 to 4 hours every night for a week trying to get the Muncie to fit into the bell housing flush BEFORE tightening the bolts.


What ended up working was to be sure that the alignment tool is absolutely strait when you lining up the clutch disc.


Have the clutch linkage installed, and have a buddy (or your wife) in the car.


When you are almost all the way in, have the clutch pedal depressed.


That will allow the Muncie to go all the way in.


It is frustrating, but you need to stick to it.

 

I agree with the recommendation to have a helper depress the clutch pedal once you feel the transmission hitting that "wall."
Does it every time.

- Eric

 

A used input gear fits tighter than the plastic tools. It also helps to wiggle the input up and down, side to side before tightening the pressure plate all the way. With some pressure on the disk, you can get it centered very well, and then torque the bolts on the pressure plate. As above, if you still have trouble and the mating surfaces on the trans and bell housing are clean, depressing the clutch pedal can help, as noted above.

 

Tried the clutch trick first with the same result so I pulled everything apart. I chamfered the opening on the pilot bushing and re-installed everything. This time I used some all thread and made some guide rods to help guide the trans in as recommended. The rods did make for an easier install but the trans still would not go all the way in. I then pushed in the clutch, wedged a wooden wire brush handle between the pedal and the dash, gave it one more try and it slipped right in. Can't tell you all how good that felt. One more hurdle cleared on the way to getting this Olds back on road again.

Thanks to everyone for your suggestions/tips. I would still be messing with it without your feedback.

 

Ha ha. Yes, it's hard to explain to others that amazing feeling when the transmission finally goes "thunk" and slides in that last quarter of an inch, after you've been on your back, covered in grease, with rust and sweat falling into your eyes, bench pressing it, for the past 45 minutes.

- Eric

 

Glad to hear I'm apparently not the only one that gets a little rush out of this.

Rick

 

I know your pains and joys as well. I had the same issue when reinstalling the T-10 back in my 79 Trans Am. I checked that clutch alignment i don't know how many times. I finally ended up pulling the trans in place using the 4 bolts that secure it to the bell housing. After bench pressing/fighting the transmission for a few hours I surely felt it the next day. Now get the rest of the car back together so you can enjoy that 4 spd. :-)

 

Ah yes.
I had one, ONE, slip right in... and another that took hours and finally a helper.

Now, the purpose of REVERSE gear in this process as set forth above... I do not understand.
First and reverse are probably the WORST gears to use for this

Low gears like R and 1 make it easy for the *engine* to turn the -driveshaft-.... what you want here is to make it easy for the driveshaft to turn the engine end of the trans. Therefore you want 1:1 4th gear, or better yet, an overdrive gear. So that it's easier to turn the trans shaft at the pressure plate by applying your hand force at the aft end of the trans.

 

...Low gears like R and 1 make it easy for the *engine* to turn the -driveshaft-.... what you want here is to make it easy for the driveshaft to turn the engine end of the trans. Therefore you want 1:1 4th gear, or better yet, an overdrive gear. So that it's easier to turn the trans shaft at the pressure plate by applying your hand force at the aft end of the trans.[/QUOTE]


Makes sense to me....



Rick