HI GUYS, I HAVE A SERIOUS PROBLEM WITH MY 1972 CUTLASS SUPREME. WHILE I WAS RESTORING IT I THOUGHT I WOULD PUT IN A 2004R TRANSMISSION. IT CAME FROM A FRIEND OUT OF A 1986 BUICK LESABER AND IT WAS WORKING ALRIGHT. THE PROBLEM IS I HAVE FIRST SECOND AND THIRD AND REVERSE BUT NO FORTH GEAR. IT WILL SHIFT INTO PASSING GEAR ALSO WHEN I STEP ON IT. I HAVE BEEN TRYING TO FIND A GOOD TV CABLE AND BRACKET. BOWTIES OVERDRIVE AND AN OTHER ONE TELL ME THEY HAVE TO MAKE A CUSTOM ONE FOR MY CAR FOR AROUND $285.00. EXCEPT FOR THE 2004R IT IS BONE STOCK. IT HAS THE CARB THAT CAME FROM THE FACTORY WHEN IT WAS NEW. I AM USING THE KICK DOWN CABLE NOW FROM THE TH350 THAT WAS IN IT EARLIER. I KNOW I HAVE TO CHANGE THE CABLE BUT I WANT TO GET A GOOD QUALITY ONE SO I DON'T HAVE ALL OF THE TROUBLE THAT SOME PEOPLE HAVE HAD THAT I READ ON THE FORUM. IF ANYONE HAS ANY IDEAS I WOULD BE VERY GRATEFUL FOR THE ADVICE. THANK YOU JIM

 

How firm are the shifts? What RPM? Just get a universal TV cable and a Qjet bracket off a 80's Olds with the 2004r. It may be adjusted too tight.

 

Don't drive it too much until you get the correct cable. You will burn the trans up.

 

HEY 307,403; IT SHIFTS FROM 1ST TO 2ND AT 1850 TO 1900 THEN DOESN'T SHIFT INTO 3RD UNTIL ABOUT 2800,2900 RPM. JUST DOESN'T GO INTO 4TH AT ALL NO MATTER WHAT I DO. I DON'T KNOW WHAT SPEED I AM GOING BECAUSE I AM WAITING FOR A NEW SPEEDO GEAR. ACCORDING TO THE TACH I AM DOING 67MPH AT 3000 RPM WITH 3:42 REAR END IN 3RD GEAR. THANKS JIM

 

What does the tag on the tail pass side have stamped on it? The vb/gov combo might not be matched up with your rear gears. Have you looked at your governor and/or Speedo gear to see what they are?

 

Use the tv cable and bracket from the Lesabre. What carb and engine do you have? What engIne was in the Lesabre? Full throttle up shifts with a standard 2004R will not be the same as a t350 or 400. You would need a BRF 2004R or similiar one from a Monte SS or a Hust/442 from the mid 80s.

 

I haven't looked at the speedo gears yet. The tag on the tail shaft says og. Which i know is foe a big car like the buick le saber. I did get a kit from bowties that locks and unlocks the converter when you sept on the brake. But that shouldn't have anything to do with it going into 4th gear just lockup. Thanks again. Jim

 

Yes, the shifting is controlled by the governor and the valve body. Lightening the smaller weight and/or installing a lighter spring should allow a higher rpm shift.
http://www.atraonline.com/gears/1999.../gjul99p16.htm
Check out this article for a little insight on how it works.

 

I bought my 200r4 from Lonnie @ Extreame automatics. This link has some great advice on setting up the TV cable on the 200r 4. I followed this to a "T" and mine shifted correctly right out the box. There is a visual check and then you verify with a pressure check. I hope this helps.

http://www.extremeautomatics.com/techHome.php

 

I thought i read somewhere on the forum that someone was able to use the kick down cable from their th350 trans on their 2004r. They modified it alittle but it seemed to work. Does anyone remember that post. Thanks jim

 

For as cheap as a cable is compared to how much a trans overhaul costs, I wouldn't be trying to skimp on a tv cable.

 

Nobody is mentioning the lock-up factor?

200R4 is a lock up convertor in 4th gear. This was computer controlled. You can get a lock up kit on the internet, install it, and call it a day

 

I purchased a lockup kit from bowtie and installed it and i still can't get the trans to shift into 4th gear. Everyother gear ok but no 4th. Thanks jim

 

Good chance you will need the green 10 tooth Speedo gear for it to be accurate. I have lost reverse and fourth before. Make sure the TV isn't too tight, it might be delaying 4th gear shift.

 

Is it locking the torque converter?
Does your lock up kit go through the pressure switch on the valve body?
Do you have a tach? Have you done the math with tire size, rear gear and how many rpm to see if you are close to direct or od with rpm?
On mine the 1-2 shift happens quickly and is almost imperceptable so it seems like it is only shifting twice when in reality it did shift three times and is in od.

 

I can tell you increasing the TV limit spring nearly raised my full throttle shift point nearly 1000 rpm. The Transgo stiffer green spring and grinding the top weight slightly got my 1-2 shifts hitting 5000, where I want it. Of course getting the 2-3 shift to match seems much harder, mine is 4600. Good article.

 

WELL GUYS I'M BACK. AFTER LOOSING MY WALLET AND TAKING A NUMBER OF DAYS LOOKING FOR IT. I FINALLY HAD TO GO THROUGH ALL THE BS TO REPLACE EVERYTHING IN IT. THAT TOOK ANOTHER 4 DAYS. ANYWAY I HAVE DONE ALLOT OF WORK ON THE 2004R. TOOK OFF THEVALVE BODY AND CLEANED IT AND LOOKED TO SEE IF ANY VALVES WERE STIKING AND THEY WERN'T. HAD A BROKEN ACCUMULATOR SPRING AND REPLACED IT. REPLACED THE SPEEDOMETER GEAR TO A 10 TOOTH TOOK OUT A 13 TOOTH GEAR. LUBED EVERYTHING AND CLEANED IT REAL GOOD. PUT A SEAL IN THE SELECTOR SHAFT THEN FILLED IT WITH FLUID AND TOOK IT FOR A TEST DRIVE. GOT THE CORRECT TV CABLE AND ADJUSTED IT. AFTER ALL THAT WORK IT STILL DOES THE SAME THING. DOES NOT SHIFT INTO 4 TH GEAR. IT SHIFTS INTO 123 ALRIGHT BUT NO 4TH. IF YOU SHIFT MANUALLY WITH THE GEAR SELECTOR IT STILL DOESN'T GO INTO OVERDRIVE. IT'S JUST LIKE THER IS NOTHING THERE AND STAYS IN 3TH. THIS THING IS DRIVING ME CRAZY. JIM

 

Either get it gone through or get another one. I have had two die on me. My last one lost reverse and OD.

 

olds 307 & 403,I don't know what happened but I put a pressure gauge on the overdrive outlet. Then I drove it awhile and what do you know. It started shifting into overdrive. The more I drive it seems like the better it seems to get. The pressure in 4th is almost 120 lbs. The only issue now is that the engine wants ti quit when I get to a spot light. I have to put in neutral to keep it running. Thank you JIM

 

Weird, sounds on low side depending throttle postion/TV pull. How did the pressures look in the other gears? Glad it is now working.

 

What are you using for boost valve, rev boost valve and spring in the pump? What are you getting for pressures? Does the pressure jump when you have the cable disconnected from carb bracket, engine idling and you pull the cable?

 

Where is this overdrive outlet? Is it the 1/8" port on the driver side near the gear selector? Are you sure the lock up solenoid isn't stuck? That could make the engine stall when you come to a stop.

 

First one died due to an Imploding converter at the track. Never had a gauge on second one, got smart on this trans. Both had the stock pump with hardened pump rings and trans go high rev spring. I am almost positive I set the servo too tight on second one.

 

If you don't have a proper TV cable that is correctly positioned on the carb and adjusted the transmission isn't going to work properly even if everything inside is perfect. If the TV isn't set up properly the transmission will expire in a very short time.
That should be the #1 thing you get sorted out first. The rest is just a waste of time till you get that working.

 

Line Pressure is very important. Getting it up with larger boost valve, rev boost valve and the 700r4 spring. I used a .500 boost, .283 rev boost valve, and a pink spring. This got me 270 psi at full tv and I'm pretty happy with it.
As far as setting up the 2nd servo, I did mine with a feeler gauge. We installed it all with no seals and measured between the outer cover and retaining ring. We needed .060" clearance. I removed and ground the pin down several times to get where we wanted.

You need the direct clutches setup tight too. We added an extra steel to get us .050" there. Makes for a crisp 2-3 shift.