FrankU

Hello this is my first post here. I have recently completed restoring my 1970 cutlass. It has a 425 in it with high rise intake, edelbrock carb and headers. Other than that its basically stock. I have a 3.90 posi rearend that was out of 69 442. And I put a 200-4r transmission out of an 85 cutlass that was stock. ATF is clean and red. My problem is when I take off, it shifts from 1st to 2nd at 10 miles an hour and then right to 3rd and then at about 30mph it goes right into overdrive. I purchased off of bowler transmission the 200-4r cure all kit and it didn't make the slightest difference. That kit was to take care of the geometry of the TV cable. I also installed a drive and a driven gear for the odometer. I dont think that has anything to do with it. And also installed a TCI lock out kit for the overdrive. Im beginning to think there might be an internal problem in the valve body. If any body has some advice I would really appreciate it. Thank You in advance!

Gpc1

Mine shifts the same as you describe. I have read you can change springs on the governor to supposedly delay the shifts some but I haven’t messed with it.
I just start out in 2nd then shift to drive when it seems about right. I only use the OD on the freeway. I had mine rebuilt stage II since I burned up the clutches on the stock unit. Running a 400 /3:90 posi
65 442

bccan

If I leave a stop at tip in throttle and stay there, my shifts are appx the same (10ish, 20ish, 30+ish) and that’s just where I want them, like a stock transmission. They are not stacked but very deliberate and nicely spaced. With light throttle, shift points raise slightly and OD will hit 40+ish, remember that 10,20,30 is truly tip in, absolutely minimum cracking the throttle from idle. They certainly spread out under more throttle and shifts appx 5800 rpm WOT. This all took some tuning. IIRC settled on 1.6” TV spring to get the light throttle shifts down to these levels along with trial & error governor adjustments. My experience w/ 200-4R’s has usually been delayed, harsh part throttle shifts that need to be tuned and tamed.

The red car has a stock BRF with CK shift kit and behaves similarly but I can’t remember the WOT shift points. It developed a weird “problem” in that it stopped shifting into OD until about 60 mph and I was never able to figure out why, so AFAIK it’s still doing it years later. Not bad for a 200-4R with 200k on it in kid’s full time, year round driver since 2009.

I would first try adding a few clicks of tension on the TV cable to see if anything changes favorably. If not, check the TV valve alignment in the TB (check Bowtie Overdrives sight) + pull the TV spring and measure it. IIRC a longer spring will raise shift points but I’ll see if I can confirm that tomorrow, it could be just the opposite. I’ve got a couple of casualties out in the garage with notes on them, I’ve hurt a few of these over the years! Happy to say my full billet CK is still solid after 10+ years but even that took some tuning to nail down it’s personality.

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bccan

Part throttle shifts are more a function of TV operation, governer determines WOT shifts. I’m a bit squeamish about your 2nd gear starts. Years ago it was explained to me that part throttle shifts are more likely to wear/hurt these transmissions due to the minimal TV response behind a torquey engine. The line pressure is relatively low, demand increases and the apply forces are not “ready” for the torque, especially in these 2 ton cars but that 3.90 probably might help mitigate that. I would look above at the TV notes I mentioned. Check the servo (anchor pin) clearance externally, poke around web, I don’t recall the clearance range but the cover will move relative to the pin clearance. Travel range should follow Goldilocks standard, travel not too short (may not release fully) and not too far (may not engage reliably).

I’m no expert on transmissions but I’ve tuned a few, hurt a few and had my hands in a few 200’s. I’m hopeful someone more knowledgeable can support my suggestions or offer some others.

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Gpc1

by starting out in 2nd it still goes through 1st gear , the tv cable adjustment is
set so it moves through the throttle range and is pulled out all the way at WOT.
i have the TCI vacuum switch setup for the OD. Seems to work ok had to adjust it a little as the transmission was “hunting “ between D and OD at first.
I can’t get it into 1st gear due to the limitations of the column shifter.

bccan

Ooops, got it. Guess I overlooked the obvious.

If it matters to you, the column detent plate can be ground/filed for clearance to allow shifter travel to low gear. just a matter of removing material on the Right end of it

I have dealt with 2 columns that needed clearancing of the shift arm at the lower end of the column in the engine bay, others had a different shaped arm that was fine as is.

I would confirm shifter adjustment vs trans shifter detent just to be sure. Tighten up TV cable by pushing button and push the exposed nose of the housing back 2-3 clicks and see if anything changes.

I wish I had more to offer and hope luck is with you.

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JohnnyBs68S

That's because the shift lever on a 200-4R travels a larger angle between P and 1 than your original trans. This is easily fixed w/ a Kugel Komponents adjustable shift lever kit. Worked great in my '68. More details in post #9 at the link in my sig.