1955 Hydramatic that has been sitting.
#1
1955 Hydramatic that has been sitting.
I just picked up a 1955 Super 88. It has been sitting for 8+ years. I know what I need to do on the fuel and brake sytems, etc.. but what do I need to do/check/adjust on the tranny before trying to drive it? BTW, the fluid is nice and red. Thanks!
#3
These old hydramatics are great transmissions. The bands on the 55 hydramatic require adjustment every few thousand miles, and they are very critical. However I don't think it is something that would fall out of adjustment sitting, so unless they were off before it should be okay. The procedure typically requires a special set of obsolete tools, however there is a method that is a way around that... It doesn't seem very accurate, though. The consequences of adjusting either too tight or too loose will both ways result in a full rebuild. I am opting not to try it myself this time because I cannot afford to experiment right now. I would just drain the fluid from the taurus and pan, and replace it. When you get it running, see how it performs. Any symptoms can be diagnosed from there.
The t350 is a possible swap, but not easy. There are two methods of about equal expense. I have seen adapter kits around $1000. They include a couple of adapters and a flexplate. Not sure if there are provisions for the motor mounts on that one. There are other outfits that you ship an empty case to, and they will cut the bellhousing off and fasten one that will bolt right up to your engine. Also costs around $1000, but looks awful pretty. they do 350's, 400's, and 700r4's from what I've seen. I think there is room in the trans tunnel for most of the modern units, so for me personally the cost is the biggest barrier. Also you will need to add a trans cooler, since the hydro was not so equipped that year. Personally I wouldn't ditch the hydro for another non-OD trans...
Good luck with the car hope for the best!
The t350 is a possible swap, but not easy. There are two methods of about equal expense. I have seen adapter kits around $1000. They include a couple of adapters and a flexplate. Not sure if there are provisions for the motor mounts on that one. There are other outfits that you ship an empty case to, and they will cut the bellhousing off and fasten one that will bolt right up to your engine. Also costs around $1000, but looks awful pretty. they do 350's, 400's, and 700r4's from what I've seen. I think there is room in the trans tunnel for most of the modern units, so for me personally the cost is the biggest barrier. Also you will need to add a trans cooler, since the hydro was not so equipped that year. Personally I wouldn't ditch the hydro for another non-OD trans...
Good luck with the car hope for the best!
Last edited by oldsmobum; April 9th, 2012 at 11:33 PM. Reason: Redundancy... Its past my bed time
#4
These are very tough and reliable transmissions and will hold up to 600 HP in stock form. The several I have owned have been maintenance free except for the occasional oil change requiring no adjustments and have ran for years with no problems, some of them abused terrible in my youth out lived the cars they were in two fold.
They have there quirks, the shift from second to third is some what clunky for the lack of better words and first to second is quite fast and will get you off the line faster than anything in it's age group. Stick with the hydramatic and you won't go wrong.....Tedd
#5
Keep the hydramatic, these are great old transmissions, even though they do shift a little hard, especially mistimed 2-3 shifts. But durability will always be a trademark of these, as they have more fluid in them than any th350. The hydramatics will outlast those new boxes and their replacements.
#7
Any thought about the fill tubes leaking,do they need an o-ring or some permatex on them.mine has dripped a quart of fuid in the past month on the garage floor.Its hard to catch it cause it runs around the pan and drips off in three or four places.Thanks
#8
I don't remember a O ring and I don't see one in the shop manual( but then again I got lost in the 180 or so images)But it does speak of the filler pipe nut becoming loose in the pan fitting, so there is some kind of seal. I am assuming that it is a flange type fitting. Have you tried to tighten this nut? D2_willys where are you,You would know while I am gessing..Tedd
#10
Just curious and for my own information was there a provision for a O ring or did you just add one between the flange/ nut.....Tedd
#11
i dont know anything about a nut ,my dip tube just slides into the hole then a flap with a hole in it goes over a exhaust manifold stud and is held by a nut and lock washer.There is a flange on the tube about an inch above the lower end and that is where i put a thick rubber o-ring and a small bead of permatex.I havent filled it up again yet but i did actually drive the car for the first time today,out of the garage ,down the driveway and back,i think i need to adjust the timing again as it is doggy when you first take offI know its only about 85 ft to the end of the driveway but ive been waiting for that ride 7-8 years.
#13
No it does not require dropping the trans... but some cars had an access panel in the floorboard to reach it easier. There are special tools typically required, but there is a procedure if you do not have them.
http://www.autotran.us/HMBAdj1.html
That is the link to a set of instructions.
http://www.autotran.us/HMBAdj1.html
That is the link to a set of instructions.
#14
I don't know how long regularly is but i have never adjusted mine since rebuild and that was almost 30000 miles ago, shifts as it did on the first day. None of mine have been temperamental in that regard....Tedd
#15
Since the fitting is a flared end, it should seal by itself. However back in the day, I believe there was an o ring that sat in the fitting well and was compressed by the flared end of the tube.
#16
The 54-56 hydros had only one external band adjustment. The other band was adjusted with pan off. But the recommended way of adjusting both bands (even if you have two external adjusting screws) is to drop the pan and do the adjustments that way.
External adjustments are done with engine running, so without an access cover it is almost impossible to do the external adjustment.
#17
I don't remember a O ring and I don't see one in the shop manual( but then again I got lost in the 180 or so images)But it does speak of the filler pipe nut becoming loose in the pan fitting, so there is some kind of seal. I am assuming that it is a flange type fitting. Have you tried to tighten this nut? D2_willys where are you,You would know while I am gessing..Tedd
But I did post some info for you hydramatic guys.
#18
No it does not require dropping the trans... but some cars had an access panel in the floorboard to reach it easier. There are special tools typically required, but there is a procedure if you do not have them.
http://www.autotran.us/HMBAdj1.html
That is the link to a set of instructions.
http://www.autotran.us/HMBAdj1.html
That is the link to a set of instructions.
#19
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