That's why I assumed the 14 lifters I have were for the earlier model engines - I knew the oiling systems were different. I have no way to ID this group of (expensively) refinished lifters. It would be nice to get them to someone that could use them.
New lifters were ordered yesterday, and I hope to have them within the week. Praying this is the last thing...

 

Here’s a quick follow up comparison on the two different styles of lifters I found in my engine. The left one, of which I have 14, does not pump oil up my pushrods. The right one, of which I have 2, pumps oil correctly. Both have the same external measurements. The internals are different, especially the orifice size at the pushrod. If anyone can identify what I have here, I would be grateful. If anyone needs what I have, please send me a PM. All 16 were refinished by Egge just a couple months ago, and have never been run.

 

As a final “kick me while I’m down”, Grog had installed the wrong lifters (shown above). My new lifters arrived while I was in Springfield, and we installed them yesterday. Five seconds of spinning the oil pump and oil was shooting all over the lifters and over my shoulder. Problem solved. Buttoned up the long block and dropped it back in the car. Now the rest of the week will be attaching all the extra brackets and parts, as well as the exhaust, with some more cleaning and painting underneath. The carb should be back by the weekend.

 

What lifters are you using ?

 

Which style/size lifter orifice did you settle on? Was this a mix of lifters that intended to limit upper end over oiling, that OLDS struggled with?

 

I contacted Mark Remmel who was able to get me a set of the correct .921 lifters for the Toronado. I really do not have any idea how the lifters that were in the car when I got it - and that I eventually refinished - got there in the first place. They couldn't have run in the engine for very long, or there would have been tons of damage up top. The rockers arms showed a lot of wear underneath, but the pushrods themselves were in excellent condition.

 

I now have the Johnson Hylift B-0957 lifters.

 

Quick update - almost everything has been reattached to the engine and I am a rebuilt carburetor away from firing this for the first time. I need to replace the brake master tomorrow, get a replacement fuel line installed, and get the radiator in place with the shroud. I’m leaving the grille and air dam off until I get the AC system fully updated and charged for better access to the condenser.



The “might-as-wells” got me all along the project, as I fought through problem after problem. I know I’m not out of the woods yet. But the undercarriage is clean as a whistle, and I hope the exhaust sounds as good as it looks.




And for the first time in a long time, she stands on her own feet, unsupported by jack stands.

 

Looking good, really good. Should be well worth all the sweat and tears, and aggravations along the way.
Thanks for all the updates along the way.

 

This is looking awesome! I noticed your engine hoist is positioned at the side of the car. Is it possible to pull the engine from the side like that? The reason I ask is my garage doesn't have enough room to pull my engine out straight on, but I definitely have the width to do it if it's actually possible to pull it from the side like that. I mean, I have no plans to pull the engine any time soon but if I ever did, I'd only be able to do it this one way......just planning for future projects.

 

Pulling from the side is the only way I can see to do it. I just have one of those common engine hoists with the extendable lift arm, and it isn't long enough to reach into the engine compartment from the nose. No problem lifting the motor over the fender - much easier than I ever thought it would be. Using a load leveler engine hoist sling kept the motor exactly in place and we didn't have to mess with it trying to turn or twist as it came out. Literally painless removal and installation.

 

When pulling the engine from an early Toronado, it is critical that a jack is placed under the differential to keep the transmission level. If the transmission tilts down, it will make engine removal/installation very problematic.

 

I used the Service Manual as a guide. They show a specific chain that hooks to the driver's frame rail, goes underneath the differential, then hooks to the passenger side frame. I duplicated this path using a heavy duty 2" webbed cargo come-along strap, which not only held the trans and differential, it allowed slight adjustment up and down with a jack as we reassembled the two parts. The strap held the trans and diff effortlessly for several months. I'm not sure if any pics I posted in this thread show this. I'll look back and see. ***EDIT*** check post #57 to see the strap and where it was attached. I can also say that while the strap held up the differential, I was able to remove and service the passenger side axle, which needed an inner boot replacement, without any issues at all.

 

This is really great information! Thanks for this. Will be invaluable in the future.

 

Good job BSiegPaint !

 

I'm curious as to why so much positive camber on that left front wheel. I would think that without all of the weight back on the front of the car that it would lean in, as in negative camber.

 

That's what happens when you lower the car from being jacked up with the front wheels hanging down and canted inwards - it corrects as soon as you move car 1-2 feet.

 

Plus a little bit of camera eye warp thrown in there as well - look at the sprinkler box on the wall to the left, and the tool box to the right...