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#1
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I have been searching and reading the posts but still have some questions.
The 68 we just picked up has not run in ten years.
The gas tank is coming off and having tried to siphon the old varnish out, i did notice some rust coming out from the neck on the hose, just dusty looking particles.
There are no leaks in the tank because it does have bad gas inside, however i want to treat and seal it.
Is there a good way to see if there is a bad rust issue?
Can this be handled with a cleaning/sealing kit like http://www.por15.com/FUEL-TANK-REPAI...ductinfo/FTRK/ this one, or is this one better http://www.kanter.com///productdetai...at=43&Prc=185#?
Replacement tanks seem to be like hens teeth, so if that sealer kit is not enough I have a buddy who can cut off the bottom of the tank, and weld a unit that fits, or fab one up, or fuel cell. Anybody every cut a donor tank in half to replace the bottom? Make model year?
I would appreciate your input and opinions on the first step.
Here is the list of to do's I have come up with.
Make sure fuel tank and lines are clean with new filters.
Change all fluids in the car. The tranny fluid is nice an clear pink, but old and I suppose that its a good idea to freshen that up to.
squirt some lube into spark plugs holes and turn over a few times, or hand crank the motor (which?)
Once the motor is running and tuned we need to stop, so go through the braking system
Once we can stop, go through the suspension starting with shocks and bushings.
Then start working on sanding for paint. How do you remove the chrome without fragging it?
Should I separate my questions> too much? I know I missed a lot, please advise.
thank you
The 68 we just picked up has not run in ten years.
The gas tank is coming off and having tried to siphon the old varnish out, i did notice some rust coming out from the neck on the hose, just dusty looking particles.
There are no leaks in the tank because it does have bad gas inside, however i want to treat and seal it.
Is there a good way to see if there is a bad rust issue?
Can this be handled with a cleaning/sealing kit like http://www.por15.com/FUEL-TANK-REPAI...ductinfo/FTRK/ this one, or is this one better http://www.kanter.com///productdetai...at=43&Prc=185#?
Replacement tanks seem to be like hens teeth, so if that sealer kit is not enough I have a buddy who can cut off the bottom of the tank, and weld a unit that fits, or fab one up, or fuel cell. Anybody every cut a donor tank in half to replace the bottom? Make model year?
I would appreciate your input and opinions on the first step.
Here is the list of to do's I have come up with.
Make sure fuel tank and lines are clean with new filters.
Change all fluids in the car. The tranny fluid is nice an clear pink, but old and I suppose that its a good idea to freshen that up to.
squirt some lube into spark plugs holes and turn over a few times, or hand crank the motor (which?)
Once the motor is running and tuned we need to stop, so go through the braking system
Once we can stop, go through the suspension starting with shocks and bushings.
Then start working on sanding for paint. How do you remove the chrome without fragging it?
Should I separate my questions> too much? I know I missed a lot, please advise.
thank you
Last edited by damalden; June 10th, 2012 at 06:00 PM. Reason: added link
#2
I agree these tanks are hard to find. I had one that another member here wanted, so I took it to a local radiator shop. They boiled it out and even soldered one of the nipples that was loose for me. That removed all the rust and sludge that had collected inside. If you try that be sure and call around. This guy only charged me about $60 while others gave quotes over the phone of up to $200. The shop didn't recommend coating the inside as he thought it might flake off in the future and plug the lines. His thoughts were that it was now clean and if good fuel was kept in it that it shouldn't get rusty again.
John
John
#4
#5
If you are wanting to keep the original tank, I would take it to a radiator shop and have it boiled out. Ive done 2 or 3 tanks this way and my radiator guy only charges 50 bucks. I would go with John's idea but $115 is a pretty good price for a new one if you want to go that way. Just depends on if keeping the car original is what your wanting. Good Luck
Last edited by Gator69olds; June 10th, 2012 at 07:21 PM.
#7
I only paid about $200 Canadaian installed in my '68 about 10 years ago. Did not find any build sheet. If you are pulling the tank out check to find old crumbling paperwork from the assembly line about your car.
Adam
Adam
#8
WHOA! Wait a second. I had my A body coloured glasses on. The tank Allan showed was for a GM A body Cutlass, 442, GTO, Skylark etc So was my tank I mentioned.
I wanted to seee if you had pics.... You new car is a '68 Deleuxe - Toronado, that makes things a little different. Rockauto does not list a tank for a Toro.
Quick searching online showed no repop Toro tanks. Back to the original question.
What's the best way to clean a seal a non replacable tank.
Although, you might find clean used tank from someone here if you put up a parts wanted ad.
Adam
I wanted to seee if you had pics.... You new car is a '68 Deleuxe - Toronado, that makes things a little different. Rockauto does not list a tank for a Toro.
Quick searching online showed no repop Toro tanks. Back to the original question.
What's the best way to clean a seal a non replacable tank.
Although, you might find clean used tank from someone here if you put up a parts wanted ad.
Adam
#9
I would appreciate your input and opinions on the first step.
Here is the list of to do's I have come up with.
Make sure fuel tank and lines are clean with new filters.
Change all fluids in the car. The tranny fluid is nice an clear pink, but old and I suppose that its a good idea to freshen that up to.
squirt some lube into spark plugs holes and turn over a few times, or hand crank the motor (which?)
Once the motor is running and tuned we need to stop, so go through the braking system
Once we can stop, go through the suspension starting with shocks and bushings.
Then start working on sanding for paint. How do you remove the chrome without fragging it?
Should I separate my questions> too much? I know I missed a lot, please advise.
thank you
Changing all fluids is a good move, might as well leave the brake fluid until you attend to the braking system.
Before cranking the engine you might consider pulling the distributor and spinning the oil pump drive (anticlockwise) to get oil round the bearings first. Then spin the motor over with the starter.
Put new points and a condensor in as well, and the plug wires might need to be replaced.
I think you have your schedule in the right order, plenty of people here know more about body & paint than me!.
Roger.
#10
GM34c dimensions are:
39 1/4 x 24 1/2 x 7 3/4
Toro tank dimensions are (apprx):
36L x 28W x 9H
That tank is too long, and not tall enough.
The width isn't really a factor, since the straps will hold it in, but the length would definitely cause fitment issues, as well as the height due to the filler neck.
#11
Furthermore, during the winter I emailed Spectra, giving them the tank dimensions for the Toro, to see if there was any tank, of the hundreds they make, that had similar dimensions (off by ~1" could be dealt with easily).
Nope!
Honestly at this point, I'd pay about $400 for a useable tank.
Nope!
Honestly at this point, I'd pay about $400 for a useable tank.
#13
#14
Thanks. I shouldn't have assumed that the tank was for a Cutlass. Lesson learned.
#16
*sigh* :l
#17
That, my friend is a sad fact of life. I totally feel your frustration. I also understand that to make some of those special tanks, there has to be a market that will support the tooling and production costs.
#18
Yea I suppose so, wonder how much a new fuel tank mold costs...
#20
Any chance this one has a shot at working?
http://www.gastanks.com/1975-78-Toro...ctinfo/GM-40U/
http://www.gastanks.com/1975-78-Toro...ctinfo/GM-40U/
#21
Any chance this one has a shot at working?
http://www.gastanks.com/1975-78-Toro...ctinfo/GM-40U/
http://www.gastanks.com/1975-78-Toro...ctinfo/GM-40U/
It might be possible to squeeze that underneath, but there are a couple issues:
- The sending unit mounting hole is on a raised platform, you'd need a different sending unit (to read correctly on the gauge), or pound it flat :P
- The filler neck would have to be cut off, turned 180deg, straightened a bit, and rewelded on.
Otherwise, it's only 3" shorter length-wise, pretty sure the straps could hold that, it's just 1.5" less on each side. Although the grooves for the straps on the tank may or may not be off.
Width wouldn't be a problem, as the filler neck would hold it in place where it needs to be.
Height is minimally off, but still might cause slight issue with getting a sending unit to give an exact readout.
For comparison:
Last edited by wikkonado; June 20th, 2012 at 11:10 PM.
#22
So if the height where the sender is the only real problem, would it be reasonable to (plasma cut) that section out and weld in a flat panel with the sender ring? Might work. I don't remember the tank capacity of the one I posted, but the sender would prolly need to be adjusted to reflect that change in height?
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