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Here's some brutal Toronado engineering on full display. Just wondering how much I'm going to throw off the power steering pump alignment by installing Remflex exhaust manifold gaskets? For whatever reason, they used several of the exhaust manifold bolts to mount a few components. The power steering pump bracket and the AC compressor brackets both use exhaust manifold bolts to mount them on the car. In my opinion, that's a dumb thing to do but that's all I can do......just grumble and live with it (and perhaps moan about it on here). Some of those same components are also mounted using the friggin' head bolt studs..........anywho....
I'm going to be slipping in a set of Remflex manifold gaskets but the clearance on the drivers side between the manifold and the power steering pump bracket is basically an interference fit. I'll have to remove the power steering bracket to get the gasket and manifold back on the engine, however this will move the bracket outboard by the thickness of the Remflex gasket (which isn't nothing as they're quite thick). Is this going too throw off the alignment or is it basically negligible? I mean, I'm gonna do it anyway and see how it goes but I'm just trying to think ahead.
Manifold slips in between cylinder head and power steering pump bracket.
Everything on this massive car is a game of thousands of an inch.
Last edited by ourkid2000; Jan 11, 2026 at 12:23 PM.
I would be concerned that a thicker gasket might cause the manifold to crack eventually Worst case you can unbolt the pump and elongate the front holes
or heat and bend the tab
Have you considered having the manifold surfaced then install as per OEM no gasket?
I have successfully hand filed a ex mani and installed thin felpro gasket. One car is still running this way after 40 years no leaks.
I would be concerned that a thicker gasket might cause the manifold to crack eventually Worst case you can unbolt the pump and elongate the front holes
or heat and bend the tab
Why would the gasket make the manifold crack? Gaskets have been used by many people on here and I've never heard of anyone say their manifold cracked as a result.
Not a bad idea though about elongating the holes, etc. I'll see how everything fits together, maybe the adjustment in the pump mount can account for the gasket thickness.
Have you considered having the manifold surfaced then install as per OEM no gasket?
I have successfully hand filed a ex mani and installed thin felpro gasket. One car is still running this way after 40 years no leaks.
I was under the impression that re-surfacing these exhaust manifolds is extremely difficult. I did a lot of research on here and there's several threads where people say mounting the manifold in a fixture accurately enough to resurface is extremely difficult. I'm impressed you were able to hand file yours well enough to get a good seal, based on all the experiences of the people on here.
Old Skool style:
I used a large smooth single cut file, 16-18" long 1.5-2" wide.
I nickel welded and slow cooled the rear ear back on to the manifold then put the file to it maintaining parallel as much as possible. Switching directions like when you block a car body.
Then laid it down on a starrett like block with 400 grit (rolled) wet/dry sand paper and wet sanded the final few thou.
I get your frustration, but just so you know, the big car brackets in ‘66 got the same treatment.
I’ve never really considered it a problem but I can understand your upset.
My view, totally unsubstantiated, is that Olds bolted the ‘65 big car accessories onto the novel Toro drivetrain to make just a little headway in cost control.
Vis a vis the brackets and gaskets, I’d bolt up the manifold and decide whether or not that, uh, 5th bolt, into the manifold is _really_ needed. If I recall correctly, at least 1 of my big cars has it modified or ground off with no ill effects for 20 years or so.
I don’t want to tell you to ignore it, or abuse your car, but just to say there are a whole lot of 9/16” head bolts which hold that power steering pump fast to the block. Fully support your desire to retain the factory approach, just saying that 1 bolt missing never hurt my cars.
I get your frustration, but just so you know, the big car brackets in ‘66 got the same treatment.
I’ve never really considered it a problem but I can understand your upset.
My view, totally unsubstantiated, is that Olds bolted the ‘65 big car accessories onto the novel Toro drivetrain to make just a little headway in cost control.
Vis a vis the brackets and gaskets, I’d bolt up the manifold and decide whether or not that, uh, 5th bolt, into the manifold is _really_ needed. If I recall correctly, at least 1 of my big cars has it modified or ground off with no ill effects for 20 years or so.
I don’t want to tell you to ignore it, or abuse your car, but just to say there are a whole lot of 9/16” head bolts which hold that power steering pump fast to the block. Fully support your desire to retain the factory approach, just saying that 1 bolt missing never hurt my cars.
Cheers
Chris
Jeez, using manifold bolts to mount the brackets seems like a terrible idea! Here I am thinking this is a Toronado only thing but it looks like it was done all the time! Oh well, I was just having one of those moments of pure frustration when I posted a couple days ago. I'm over it now haha.
Good advice as always Chris. I guess I'll loosely mount everything up and see how it all fits. If I have to elongate a hole or bend the tab a touch, I'll do it. I guess you guys have run into this problem as well over the years.
Old Skool style:
I used a large smooth single cut file, 16-18" long 1.5-2" wide.
I nickel welded and slow cooled the rear ear back on to the manifold then put the file to it maintaining parallel as much as possible. Switching directions like when you block a car body.
Then laid it down on a starrett like block with 400 grit (rolled) wet/dry sand paper and wet sanded the final few thou.
Wow, yeah I definitely do not have the skills to pull something like that off reliably. Not yet at least......I wouldn't want to start on a set of '66 manifolds anyway.
Wow, yeah I definitely do not have the skills to pull something like that off reliably. Not yet at least......I wouldn't want to start on a set of '66 manifolds anyway.
Its not as much skill as it is time consuming and technique. Files are surprisingly flat. I prefer Nicholson files, myself.
It's not rocket science.
Carefully place the file onto the machined port surface and draw it gently and steadily across the surface. Employ both hands to ensure the file maintains a flat and parallel orientation relative to the surface plane.
Initial passes with the file will immediately reveal high and low spots. If the variations are minor, continue filing until the high points are sufficiently reduced. Depending on the results, gaskets may not be necessary.
Once the surface finish is satisfactory to you, you could perform a test fit using Dykem Blue layout fluid. The dye will indicate the quality and alignment of the mating surfaces. File as needed and repeat the process.
Bring the surface as close to level as possible and use a thin gasket (e.g., a thin Fel-Pro gasket).
The objective is functional flatness, not machine-grade surface perfection. Minor low spots are acceptable provided they are not excessive. The thin gasket is designed to compensate for residual imperfections, which should facilitate normal accessory attachment with minimal or no modification to the bracket bolt holes.
Potential accessory bracket interference can be further reduced by torquing the manifold to induce an initial gasket crush. Then, remove only the dual-purpose fastener and install the accessory.
Pro-tip: Use copper high-temp antiseize on all exhaust fasteners. Recheck the torque after several heat cycles.
Why would the gasket make the manifold crack? Gaskets have been used by many people on here and I've never heard of anyone say their manifold cracked as a result.
Not a bad idea though about elongating the holes, etc. I'll see how everything fits together, maybe the adjustment in the pump mount can account for the gasket thickness.
an overly thick gasket will result in the manifold “ears” to compress more than large flat areas. Manifold will warp or crack with heat cycles No gasket or solid copper/ steel is the best option. Manifolds can be resurfaced on a belt sander or surface grinder
It's not rocket science.
Carefully place the file onto the machined port surface and draw it gently and steadily across the surface. Employ both hands to ensure the file maintains a flat and parallel orientation relative to the surface plane.
Initial passes with the file will immediately reveal high and low spots. If the variations are minor, continue filing until the high points are sufficiently reduced. Depending on the results, gaskets may not be necessary.
Once the surface finish is satisfactory to you, you could perform a test fit using Dykem Blue layout fluid. The dye will indicate the quality and alignment of the mating surfaces. File as needed and repeat the process.
Bring the surface as close to level as possible and use a thin gasket (e.g., a thin Fel-Pro gasket).
The objective is functional flatness, not machine-grade surface perfection. Minor low spots are acceptable provided they are not excessive. The thin gasket is designed to compensate for residual imperfections, which should facilitate normal accessory attachment with minimal or no modification to the bracket bolt holes.
Potential accessory bracket interference can be further reduced by torquing the manifold to induce an initial gasket crush. Then, remove only the dual-purpose fastener and install the accessory.
Pro-tip: Use copper high-temp antiseize on all exhaust fasteners. Recheck the torque after several heat cycles.
Google 18 & 20" files.
Good info! Well I've got some Molykote P-37 anti-seize paste leftover from my time working on turbine engines. It's a super high temp anti seize that Pratt & Whitney used on the ignitor plugs in the hot section of their PW120/123 turbo-props and if it can stand up to those temps, it's gonna work on my manifold bolts. Handy stuff to have around for the hot parts!
an overly thick gasket will result in the manifold “ears” to compress more than large flat areas. Manifold will warp or crack with heat cycles No gasket or solid copper/ steel is the best option. Manifolds can be resurfaced on a belt sander or surface grinder
They have excellent reviews from fellers on here that I 100% trust, I don't think I'll sweat that one too much. Thanks for the heads up though!
I can’t speak for my olds but I had my Buick 430 manifolds machined by a good machine shop in the Boston area to clean them up. They came out nice. They had been leaking and were a mess. Installed Remflex gaskets 7 years ago. I agree that using manifold bolts for accessories is a recipe for pain. You can readily purchase nickel never seize for reinstall of the bolts. Not 1400C!! But pretty high temp….
As expected, I have a small clearance issue after installing my manifold gaskets. Now, I haven't torqued the manifolds down yet to compress the gaskets quite yet so the misalignment of the bolt holes should reduce somewhat but before I carry on I thought I'd run it past you guys first. Basically the only way I see to mount that power steering pulley bracket is to slightly slot the mounting holes on the bracket to align with the engine block.
Bolt holes are not in alignment with the engine block holes. Gasket not compressed yet.
As expected, I have a small clearance issue after installing my manifold gaskets. Now, I haven't torqued the manifolds down yet to compress the gaskets quite yet so the misalignment of the bolt holes should reduce somewhat but before I carry on I thought I'd run it past you guys first. Basically the only way I see to mount that power steering pulley bracket is to slightly slot the mounting holes on the bracket to align with the engine block.
Bolt holes are not in alignment with the engine block holes. Gasket not compressed yet.
I don't think you'll compress the EH manifold gasket enough to gain the clearance you need for the PS bracket-to-cylinder-head bolts. If I was in your situation, I'd torque the EH manifolds to spec and see where your PS bracket alignment is, then elongate the bracket holes to allow the mounting bolts to go in. Put flat washers on the bolts and you'll probably never see the elongation. DON'T use a longer bolt to go into the heads or you'll be using your high temp sealant to stop a coolant leak. Don't ask how I know...
I don't think you'll compress the EH manifold gasket enough to gain the clearance you need for the PS bracket-to-cylinder-head bolts. If I was in your situation, I'd torque the EH manifolds to spec and see where your PS bracket alignment is, then elongate the bracket holes to allow the mounting bolts to go in. Put flat washers on the bolts and you'll probably never see the elongation. DON'T use a longer bolt to go into the heads or you'll be using your high temp sealant to stop a coolant leak. Don't ask how I know...
Great minds think alike! That's exactly what I did today, everything seemed to work out pretty well.
Elongated these bolt holes, added a couple washers,
