Nice job. Keep us updated of the progress.

 

My input shaft was effectively shortened 1/2" because of the adapter plate, the plate goes in between the front of the trans (you cut down the LT1 snout) and the bellhousing, The LS input is like 3/4" longer so i had to tap the bronze bushing deeper into the sleeve just a tad, but I think it has great alignment, and I didn't have to drill the crank which is awesome!

 

no pics yet but i ran a line from the clutch master to the TO bearing bled it and got it all set up, engine back in and the clutch disengages well and has good pedal feel. im using a 98-02 camaro master cylinder with a bracket that bolts between the firewall and brake master. also using a s10 remote fluid reservoir.

 

bad pics but all i have right now
B043A652-B89B-4E0D-BC32-C1E0DA120D76_zpsgbuw0a9k.jpg
EAC628AA-E6F0-4CD4-B5F1-AE5D048BEFC3_zpsgkmhbhf5.jpg

 

I got it all done, no test drives yet but pedal pressure and throw are great. I'll try to get a Parts list and mods into one post.
C61A245A-DCB5-4BEC-AECF-B5B3BF915811_zpsq6mvhsrj.jpg
ED899787-D8AE-4F59-B59E-4C573C8095D9_zpsecyxsmlr.jpg

 

Don't have any real miles on it yet but I drove the car a few times and the clutch feels good disengages properly and it hasnt leaked yet.

 

Looking forward to a parts list as i am about to pick up a t56 to be putting in my Vista Cruiser. I am also going to be picking up a 455 that has been setup for a manual setup, meaning drilled out, did you have that crank or an automatic crank?

 

Jeremiah, the pic of the bushing in the crank, that looks like a steel crank.
Is that a 455 or a 425 engine?
I see it has "G" heads, just wondering.

Gene

Also Young Olds what is happening with the '62 Cutlass?

 

Been slacking on that parts list, I'll try to get it all together in one post. If your using an lt1 input you may be better off with an auto crank so you can use the pilot bushing I found.

My 62 drag project has been on the back burner for quite some time now, still have every intention of finishing.

 

I found that the mounting surface where you bolt your tranny mount on a t56 is a 1/2" further away from the output shaft as a th350. I went to a Chevy style tubular crossmember and dropped the mounting point a 1/2" to compensate. I had done the stock stamped crossmember but my tranny bounced while I was driving. The tubular one is nice and stiff

 

idk if i remembered everything so let me know.

t56 transmision, i paid $1000, seem to go for $1000-1500 in my area.

dorman oil lite bushing, 690-035. fits undrilled auto crank, sbo and bbo. a few bucks

mcleod bellhousing 8770-10, sfi rated bop/chevy pattern. this placed the t56 input shaft perfect with the pilot bushing. approx. $540

ram hydraulic throw out bearing 78125, for muncie/saginaw retrofit. comes with guide studs made to replace one of the retainer/collar bolts on a muncie/ saginaw. approx. $150

98-02 camaro/firebird clutch master cylinder approx. $60

detroit speed master cylinder bracket 070430, sandwiches between brake master and firewall. approx. $30

clutch master remote reservoir from s10, dont remember what year just walked around the junkyard till i found one that mounted flat on the firewall. i think i paid $10

72 cutlass 4 speed clutch kit. approx. $160

misc. hydraulic line, $10 ish

shop time for the tranny collar to get sleeved was a bit over $100 if i remember correctly, $90 an hour shop rate.

all together about $2100 to do it the way i did.

for mods i had to make a bracket to locate the guide stud for the throw out bearing, pictured on first page post #38. i also had to have the throwout bearing collar on the transmission sleeved to the size of a muncie so i could use a more common throw out bearing. I originally modified my factory stamped crossmember, had to be dropped to compensate for difference in mounting pad heights, described in post #50, but it bounced while driving so i bought one for a first gen chevelle which is basically the same just tubular. in my 66 i had to drill all new holes rearward of the original ones. may not be a problem for cars drilled for th400 but idk.

 

the stock 98-02 camaro master cylinder does not push enough fluid to fully disengage the clutch with my throwout bearing. normal driving is just fine but when i get on it real hard i have to let up on the gas to shift and cant rev it way up, kinda have to short shift. I will be going to a 1" bore master to hopefully aleviate the problem

 

Gene, My engine is a 455, Im pretty sure that one was a nodular crank, although I do have a steel 455 crank sitting in the shop. Its a 68 toronado engine, "C" heads 2.072 intakes

I wonder if the 93-97 master would be any better? I dont know the piston diameters but a napa guy could probably tell you. Also did you shim the throwout bearing at all? Those internal styles need to be shimmed really close to the pressure plate, I have fought those things many times on roundy round cars. Looking good buddy congratulations though! I too have driven my car a bit, just up and down the road, drives great clutch is a little too close to the floor, but i still need to adjust the clutch pushrod

 

i have it shimmed to rams specs, watching from underneat the car with someone pushing the pedal you can see that it doesnt quite open all the way. there is a travel mod the camaro guys do but i have a bunch of pedal travel now and dont want more. im going to pick up a 1" bore master, should get a full disengage with the same or less pedal travel.

 

You said u used a 8770-10 bellhousing? How does that work with the starter? I bought one myself and the starter seems to be only on the passenger side as the olds is on the drivers side.

 

any input on this?

 

The bell housing I bought is made to bolt to bop and Chevy as well as having a spot for a starter on both side. I had zero issues other than you have to go starter nose in first vs just straight up.

 

As a side note it has some miles on it now and I've had zero issues, clutch doesn't leak. I do want to get a tick master cylinder and a better shifter though

 

well apparently McLeod doesn't make the bellhousing any more, and the one that is made for oldsmobile according to them is the 8710-10. was this the part you got and not the 8770 maybe?

 

I do recal that number when doing my research on bellhousings. I was calling the manufacturers to ask the depth of the bell and the 8770 was right for my setup. Here it is on summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-8770-10