67 Cutlass Supreme Convert 330

I have Moog ES333RL outer rods, ES681 inner rods, and ES2032S adjusting sleeve all Moog. Outer rods screw in nice and easy. But the inners won’t go at all. Can’t get the threads started. Neither inner wants to screw into either end of the adjusting sleeves. Is there a trick to this too?

Here are the components……. Hmmm…. Pics won’t fully load. The outer has a 64 stamped on the gold cap and the inner has a 65.

 

Some of the parts may be incorrect or the threads could be damaged. Try turning the threads the opposite direction and compare the new parts to the old ones

 

I think I got Amazon’d. (somebody else’s returned crap) on the inners.

For some reason I cant post pics today. Downloading times out at 90%. But the photographic zoomed in evidence suggests bad threads. Will exchange.

Thanks man.

 

It was indeed REVERSE threaded. I was too chicken to give it a full try in reverse apparently.

No exhange necessary. Thanks for the moral support.

 

Entire CO website is experiencing issues uploading images.

 

That and persistent log-ins.

AND I’m sad to report that I’m still stuck. Cannot get the tie rod ends deep enough into the sleeves in order for the assembly to be short enough. I took it to a pro and he thought it was simply bottoming out. This is after Pb blasting, screwing in and out, cleaning threads, etc.

Have I stepped into a quagmire that’s unique to a Cutlass Supreme Vert?

 

have you checked the original parts against the replacements to ensure they are the same lengths?

 

X2 on comparing to the OE parts. In a perfect world the tie rod assembly on both sides of the car should be very close to one another in dimension. Are the L & R assemblies that are on the car quite similar in length? Problems can result from one tie rod being threaded in far to the sleeve and the other end not so much. Compare the old to new and look for reasonably close symmetry in the linkage.

You may be a victim of what you mentioned...reboxed/wrong parts and that is why they were returned originally.

 

Just did. They are indeed the same. 8 3/4 from stud center to end.

I actually spoke with Moog today and emailed him a pic of the adjusting sleeve. He wasn’t sure himself as the website pics haven’t been updated since 1994. But it looked just like a cheaper brand I saw on Amazon.

As for the sleeve itself, the original has the straight barrel look, while the one in question has the “bulged” center. I’ll test a an AC Delco on it. Maybe order another Moog from a different source.

 

Can you reuse the original sleeves? I’ve replaced tie rod ends multiple times and I still have the OEM sleeves.

 

Probably can reuse them. One of them looked a bit abused though. I’ll get my others for testing this weekend and report back.

I wonder what’s the least headache order for reconnecting the linkage? I’m thinking Idler, then spindles, then steer gear.

Dave

 

Attach the center link to the idler and pitman arms first, then the tie rods to the steering arms.

 

I am not a suspension guy and maybe Joe can clarify but the parts manual shows 2 different sleeves depending on "Thompson" or "Saginaw" steering ?

http://www.gmpartswiki.com/getpage?pageid=101341

Looks like there are some of both numbers on E-bay

 

Yes but not for the A-body cars. Note that all 64-72 A-body (F85) applications use sleeve P/N 5678367. The aftermarket sleeve with the "bulged" center just helps prevent the threads from rusting to the sleeve. The only part that matters is the threads in the last 3/4" or so on each end. The wider center is actually stiffer. Moment of inertia of a cylindrical tube - and thus bending stiffness - goes with radius to the fourth power. A small increase in radius causes a very large increase in stiffness.

Actually, look again. 5677867 is just the bare sleeve. 7812118 is the sleeve kit with the two clamps and bolts (which is why it listed for $9.85 instead of $3.00 for just the sleeve). Note that 8712118 fits just about every single Olds made from 1949 to 1974.

 

And I guess I need to study up on Olds also I did not realize that F85 indicated the A body. I knew you would have the answer

 

The AC Delco’s went on smooth as silk. No tightness, no thread chasing, no lube. Go figure. (Made in China though.). FYI….when I was talking to the Moog tech man, he mentioned sometimes they have to “source parts elsewhere.”


AC Delco Gold sleeve, Moog rods

 

Your persistence paid off...

When assembling the tie rods to the adjuster sleeves put each tie rod into the sleeve the same number of threads.

 

Yes, thank you!

And here we ago again…..Lares 201 Coupler is called out for the 10970 Gear. Figured to check the fit and noticed that the coupler has way more flat on it than the gear shaft. Is this is a new funky thing where, “we really don’t need all those threads?” Or am I just snake bittren? 😆

 

How far down should that rag joint go?


Lares 201. Not fully splined on the inside, but it’s not required.

 

I'd say with the spline clamping bolt removed it should go on to the point that bolt goes back in at the circumferential groove between the two sets of splines. Is there a flat on that groove?

What say others?

 

I’m thinking it goes down and hides that smooth part of the shank. My original rag is still connected to the old gear and it appears to do the same. I put the bolt back in so I wouldn’t misplace it, It will be removed when I resume tapping. Also, no flat on the groove.

update…. Chatted with Lares. Sugar Bear was right. Hide the smooth part, but leave those threads just underneath it exposed.

NEXT!