So I have gone around and around trying to get a tight feel at the steering wheel. Everything in the suspension has been replaced, a Jeep GC steering gear, new rag joint. It's not bad but could be better. I have about a 1/2" or more play at the wheel. Upon a closer look I see moving in the column where the upper section telescopes into the lower section. Is there a way to remove/ tighten that up? There some small indentations in it and it made me wonder about drilling through and putting a bolt in place to bind them together. Any suggestions?
thanks,
Steve

 

There should be shear pins in those holes. 1/2" side to side rotational play is normal for a reciprocating ball steering box. Your steering will not be the same as rack and pinion.

 

Specifically, those two sections of the shaft are supposed to telescope in a collision. Bolting them together defeats that function. There are supposed to be plastic pins that hold the two parts together. If they are already sheared, that shaft has been damaged.

 

I took out the rag joint and pulled the lower shaft to get a good look at the upper section. Before doing that I had poked around with an awl to see if there was a soft spot but found none. So there are scratch marks on it that don't help inspection. I would think if there were plastic pins I would be able to see them? Any thoughts?

 

I didn't see any mention of the pins in the CSM either

 

Because it's an assy with a single part number. I've never tried to repair one, have always replaced them.

 

In my 71 CSM there are two illustrations - the text and the illustrations refer to them as, instead of pins, steering shaft "injected plastic" - but, I can certainly appreciate how they would appear as pins. The only mention of any repair "...if steering shaft shows sheared plastic and not bent, it can be repaired by using a "Steering Shaft Repair Package". Such a package supposedly contains instructions & dimensions for all steering shafts. (Section 9A in my CSM). Otherwise, I believe you replace them as suggested.

 

Interesting, I would have never known I had a real issue. Any idea where I can get the repair kit or a new column? I don't see it in Fusick or OPGI
Steve

 

Summit, JEGS?

 

i saw someone did a ujoint conversion rag joint elimination to their column i dont know but i wonder if that type of conversion would eliminate the suspect part

 

Steve - If you evaluate this thread coupled with your other thread RE: Tie Rods/Alignment, possible chance the car was involved in a front end collision in a previous life. These things happen & current owners end up addressing issues, as might be the case here.

I’d consider further evaluation of your current steering shaft/column situation and addressing it first and as an entire assembly as it relates to the tie rod(s) issue. IOW, deep dive the steering shaft address this issue first then the tie-rod issue might logically fall into place for that corrective issue.

 

I'm beginning to think the same thing. If so the shop did a good repair, but everything looks original. I will start with the steering column, just need to locate one. I have a tilt column and it needs the lower bearing serviced and the upper tightened so I'll have it all out and can do the repairs at once.
thanks,
Steve

 

I rebuilt the intermediate shaft, and installed a new 12.7 fast ratio gear and rag joint, along with all new front-end steering components. I still have some "play" as Oldscutlass posted above is "normal.

Be sure to identify exactly where the play is coming from. With the engine "off" and the key in the "on" position to allow steering wheel movement, turn the steering wheel and check how much "play" is at the input side of your steering gear. Also isolate any side-to-side play in the intermediate shaft bearing, cup u-joint as well as rag joint at the gear. There will be some normal "play" in a new gear. The CSM states (section 9-1) that with power steering and the engine running, if steering gear lash exceeds 2" maximum, then the gear must be serviced/adjusted. (Gear lash = steering wheel movement without movement of front wheels.)

 

My play was mostly in the shaft itself, where they telescope the plastic connectors were gone. I drilled the holes and put a pin in and it is way better, very little play. That and a new alignment and it feels like a new car, I'm really happy, finally! Thanks for the reply. Always nice to learn more about my car. I would not be happy with 2" of play.
Steve

 

Just want to emphasize what Joe mentioned above. Beware that drilling holes and putting pins into the intermediate shaft defeats the purpose of the shaft being designed to collapse in a front-end collision. New replacement intermediate shafts are available for a very reasonable price.

 

I'll keep that in mind, thanks