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Yeah, I think you missed something. In the first post he said he was going to install a Moog ball joint in when he got it home. I was just saying that nowadays, Moog doesn't necessarily automatically mean quality parts anymore. Doesn't mean they're all junk, either. Got to make sure your comfortable with country of origin. Of course, there's a lot of garbage out there now on stuff that used to be good.
It's been sorta/kinda hard to follow the thread between who did what with what & when. I asked about the Moog Part Number and got no answer. The OPs description of the supply house (RPS?) sounds quite dubious, the correct Moog Part Number should be a direct fit. I wish there was (1) a picture or pictures of the control arm knuckle (2) original ball joint (3) the Moog Ball Joint and (4) perhaps an image of the Moog Part Number being used. Just hard to follow along and I haven't been convinced it's an actual Moog ball joint and what part number of the Moog ball joint. The fitting here isn't jiving for some reason.
It's been sorta/kinda hard to follow the thread between who did what with what & when. I asked about the Moog Part Number and got no answer. The OPs description of the supply house (RPS?) sounds quite dubious, the correct Moog Part Number should be a direct fit. I wish there was (1) a picture or pictures of the control arm knuckle (2) original ball joint (3) the Moog Ball Joint and (4) perhaps an image of the Moog Part Number being used. Just hard to follow along and I haven't been convinced it's an actual Moog ball joint and what part number of the Moog ball joint. The fitting here isn't jiving for some reason.
I'm not sure what manufacturer ball joint was on the car when it failed.
I have Moog (K5103) in the shed, and that's what we replaced it with this evening. The box clearly states Made in USA, so we're good there too. Sorry, it has been a hectic last couple of days..so Im sure I wasn't crystal clear in some of my posts.
To sum up however, we swapped the ball joint in the parking lot after work and got the car home. I'm going to put it back up in the air and change the drivers side out of caution before I drive it again.
Here are some (not so great) pictures. I didnt think to bring the caliper with me when changing these out, but Ill try to remember to grab it when swapping the drivers side.
Jeez, I'm getting so I cringe when I see one of your threads. They always remind me of how many potentially catastrophic things can go wrong with a car and how lucky I am that my vehicles are ambulatory and haven't exploded yet.
Jeez, I'm getting so I cringe when I see one of your threads. They always remind me of how many potentially catastrophic things can go wrong with a car and how lucky I am that my vehicles are ambulatory and haven't exploded yet.
Well, Im glad I can provide you with such a reminder
I'm not sure what manufacturer ball joint was on the car when it failed.
I have Moog (K5103) in the shed, and that's what we replaced it with this evening. The box clearly states Made in USA, so we're good there too. Sorry, it has been a hectic last couple of days..so Im sure I wasn't crystal clear in some of my posts.
To sum up however, we swapped the ball joint in the parking lot after work and got the car home. I'm going to put it back up in the air and change the drivers side out of caution before I drive it again.
Here are some (not so great) pictures. I didnt think to bring the caliper with me when changing these out, but Ill try to remember to grab it when swapping the drivers side.
[size=16px]Looking at this picture base on my memory I would assume that the Balljoint on the left is the Moog Part. The 1 on the right is the fail Balljoint. Am I correct in this? You can tell the visual differences between the two of them.[/size]
[size=16px]Looking at this picture base on my memory I would assume that the Balljoint on the left is the Moog Part. The 1 on the right is the fail Balljoint. Am I correct in this? You can tell the visual differences between the two of them.[/size]
Correct. Moog on the left, failed ball joint on the right. Sorry..I should have labeled them.
Yeah I thought that and it more than obvious why the joint suffered failure. Not even close to being the correct Balljoint. Your measurements will confirm this.
Yeah I thought that and it more than obvious why the joint suffered failure. Not even close to being the correct Balljoint. Your measurements will confirm this.
I tried looking for a part# but was unable to find it. Regardless, I'm going to pop the DS out and put the Moog in to be safe.
These are not the same ball joint; the taper is not even close! I would be concerned about the upper ball joints as well. You should buy the correct Moog part and disassemble the upper to compare it to the Moog part. The upper could fail in the same manner as the lower one did.
Does the taper of the Moog ball joint lock in place at the steering knuckle?
Yes in both cases top and bottom Balljoint will if they are the correct Balljoints. The corresponding tapers will match up completely and then you torque to specifications, then add your Cotter pin. That is why you must make sure that you completely clean the Balljoint area on the Spindle.
Yes in both cases top and bottom Balljoint will if they are the correct Balljoints. The corresponding tapers will match up completely and then you torque to specifications, then add your Cotter pin. That is why you must make sure that you completely clean the Balljoint area on the Spindle.
If your spindles have been damaged by using the incorrect ball joints, you can use a reamer tool to clean up the tapered mounting holes in the spindles. I used this tool from Speedway to freshen up my 50 year old stock spindles.
Alright, so I got the car in the air yesterday and the first thing I did was pull the pin on the passengers side, loosen the bolt, and lower the control arm. The ball joint stayed in the spindle (it never did that before) so I feel pretty good that it's seated in there. I tightened the bolt back down, put the pin in, and as I started tk grease it I noticed the outer tie rod is bent. It looks like when it slammed down, it slammed against the sway bar.
So, I'm picking one up from the parts store this morning, and hopefully either today or tomorrow will be spending time going through and getting everything done. I had a few more things on the list anyway.
Don't try to save money now -- that ship has sailed. It's a MAW at this point. Do both lowers and (as mentioned above) have a darn good look at the uppers.
Don't try to save money now -- that ship has sailed. It's a MAW at this point. Do both lowers and (as mentioned above) have a darn good look at the uppers.
I'm doing both lowers..I was referencing that I checked the one we did in the parking lot to ensure it was seated.
Well, both ball joints and the tie rod have been replaced. Annoyingly, the new Moog ball joints have boots that simply won't stay on, which doesn't make too much of a difference as I can't get my grease gun to work for some reason. So, I'm going to have Pops bring his in from the shop and we'll put as much as we can in each.
Once thats squared away, I'll address the trim/quarter panel. The inner fender was also shoved in to the point where a couple of the bolt holes got ripped out, but I'm going to see if I can at least get it popped back into place and put like a clip or something on it to hold the bolt.
May 21st, 2024, 03:01 PM
