Suspension advice
#1
Suspension advice
Looking for recommendations for a suspension kit for my 69 442. the front end sits much higher than the rear, I'm assuming everything is wore out, I would like the front to sit slightly lower than the rear or at least completely level. I would like to do the entire front and rear, what's a good kit/manufacturer that wont brake the bank?
Thanks for any ideas or advice.
Thanks for any ideas or advice.
#2
I used Moog rubber bushings front and rear, all Moog front steering components, and both front and rear springs from Eaton Detroit Springs. In the front, you will want to replace all the control arm bushings, the sway bar bushings and end-links, and ball joints in addition to all new steering components; center/drag link, inner and outer tie rods, and idler arm. No point sprucing up the suspension if your steering is still sloppy. Eaton Detroit Springs was one of the OEM spring suppliers. Their website makes it easy to order exactly what you want/need based on vehicle, engine, suspension, and accessories. You can order custom length springs depending on how high or low you want to go, in addition to getting the correct spring rate.
#5
Thanks for the info. Do you know roughly what you spent for piecing it all together individually, rather than buying a kit? I don't know anything about spring rate, or other suspension technical terms, what do you mean about spring rate?
#7
Rockauto or Amazon (free shipping through prime) is about as cheap as you can get buying these parts. You just need to research your correct part numbers.
Your looking at at around $600 worth of just parts to completely rebuild the entire front end. That's upper and lower rubber control bushings, upper and lower ball joints, front springs, stabilizer links, inner and outer tie rod ends, idler arm, shocks, and drag link. You can just repair/replace the worn items and probably come out a lot cheaper.
The rear will cost about $200 for springs, upper and lower control arm bushings, and shocks.
Your looking at at around $600 worth of just parts to completely rebuild the entire front end. That's upper and lower rubber control bushings, upper and lower ball joints, front springs, stabilizer links, inner and outer tie rod ends, idler arm, shocks, and drag link. You can just repair/replace the worn items and probably come out a lot cheaper.
The rear will cost about $200 for springs, upper and lower control arm bushings, and shocks.
#8
#10
Except for the springs, I purchased all my parts through Rock Auto and Amazon as folks have mentioned. Check your front lower control arms. There are two styles, and you need to be sure you get the correct bushings. One style has all ROUND bushings, the other style has BOTH round and OVAL.
The springs were $189/pr front and $189/pr rear at Eaton Detroit Springs.
If you need one, I inadvertently bought two Center Links. I have one NIB that needs a new home.
The springs were $189/pr front and $189/pr rear at Eaton Detroit Springs.
If you need one, I inadvertently bought two Center Links. I have one NIB that needs a new home.
Last edited by BackInTheGame; April 29th, 2021 at 08:40 PM.
#13
I haven’t ordered anything yet. I’m getting close tho. Thanks for the heads up on that. What kind of improvement with that be?
#14
Except for the springs, I purchased all my parts through Rock Auto and Amazon as folks have mentioned. Check your front lower control arms. There are two styles, and you need to be sure you get the correct bushings. One style has all ROUND bushings, the other style has BOTH round and OVAL.
The springs were $189/pr front and $189/pr rear at Eaton Detroit Springs.
If you need one, I inadvertently bought two Center Links. I have one NIB that needs a new home.
The springs were $189/pr front and $189/pr rear at Eaton Detroit Springs.
If you need one, I inadvertently bought two Center Links. I have one NIB that needs a new home.
#15
Rockauto or Amazon (free shipping through prime) is about as cheap as you can get buying these parts. You just need to research your correct part numbers.
Your looking at at around $600 worth of just parts to completely rebuild the entire front end. That's upper and lower rubber control bushings, upper and lower ball joints, front springs, stabilizer links, inner and outer tie rod ends, idler arm, shocks, and drag link. You can just repair/replace the worn items and probably come out a lot cheaper.
The rear will cost about $200 for springs, upper and lower control arm bushings, and shocks.
Your looking at at around $600 worth of just parts to completely rebuild the entire front end. That's upper and lower rubber control bushings, upper and lower ball joints, front springs, stabilizer links, inner and outer tie rod ends, idler arm, shocks, and drag link. You can just repair/replace the worn items and probably come out a lot cheaper.
The rear will cost about $200 for springs, upper and lower control arm bushings, and shocks.
#16
I ordered all Moog parts through Advanced Auto and got 20% off and picked up the same day. You can order what you know you need and if it turns out you need something else you can get it quickly. I signed up on their site and get 20 off coupons regularly, probably 2 times a month. Not sure where you live but there are many near me and the warehouse. where are you located?
Steve
Steve
#17
IMO Moog quality went downhill since they stop manufacturing parts in USA. Recently I was looking for new steering components for my 70. Ended up buying AC Delco from Rockauto, every box came with "Made in USA" on it.
#19
Progressive (variable) springs are better for street driving and linear (constant) are better for performance driving.
That being said I've tried BMR drop springs that are Linear and UMI that are Progressive. I prefer Progressive UMI.
Nice cushy ride, but firm through the corners, doesn't bounce and bottom out like Linear (BMR) did, especially when I had kids in the back.
That being said I've tried BMR drop springs that are Linear and UMI that are Progressive. I prefer Progressive UMI.
Nice cushy ride, but firm through the corners, doesn't bounce and bottom out like Linear (BMR) did, especially when I had kids in the back.
#20
I have replaced the suspensions and front end parts on both my '69's; a 442 and Cutlass S. I've used Moog for springs but went a different route with bushings and other parts. In the 442, I retained the factory upper and lower arms (front and rear) and replaced the rubber bushings with polygraphite from PST. On the S, I replaced the front bushings with polygraphite but changed out the original rear control arms with pieces from BMR. Easy and cost effective.
For the steering rebuild on the S, I went with parts from Pro-Forged. I did some research and these seemed like a good alternative to Moog. Reasonably priced and extremely high quality, in my opinion.
For the steering rebuild on the S, I went with parts from Pro-Forged. I did some research and these seemed like a good alternative to Moog. Reasonably priced and extremely high quality, in my opinion.
#21
My car was selected by Proforged to test fit their steering parts kit on a 67 Cutlass. Included a centerlink, idler arm, pitman arm, tie rod ends, and the adjusters. Easy install and the parts are still installed working flawlessly. The rest of my front suspension is all moog including the springs. For the rear I installed all UMI rear control arms with poly bushings with their rear sway bar with Moog springs. Have no complaints with their parts either.
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