Suspension advice

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old April 29th, 2021, 10:47 AM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
azehr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 30
Suspension advice

Looking for recommendations for a suspension kit for my 69 442. the front end sits much higher than the rear, I'm assuming everything is wore out, I would like the front to sit slightly lower than the rear or at least completely level. I would like to do the entire front and rear, what's a good kit/manufacturer that wont brake the bank?

Thanks for any ideas or advice.
azehr is offline  
Old April 29th, 2021, 12:15 PM
  #2  
Registered User
 
BackInTheGame's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Colorado - Front Range
Posts: 2,388
I used Moog rubber bushings front and rear, all Moog front steering components, and both front and rear springs from Eaton Detroit Springs. In the front, you will want to replace all the control arm bushings, the sway bar bushings and end-links, and ball joints in addition to all new steering components; center/drag link, inner and outer tie rods, and idler arm. No point sprucing up the suspension if your steering is still sloppy. Eaton Detroit Springs was one of the OEM spring suppliers. Their website makes it easy to order exactly what you want/need based on vehicle, engine, suspension, and accessories. You can order custom length springs depending on how high or low you want to go, in addition to getting the correct spring rate.
BackInTheGame is offline  
Old April 29th, 2021, 12:50 PM
  #3  
Registered User
 
Fun71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 14,114
What wasn't specifically stated above is don't buy a "kit" for this, get the parts separately to ensure good quality and the correct application.
Fun71 is offline  
Old April 29th, 2021, 12:57 PM
  #4  
Registered User
 
BackInTheGame's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Colorado - Front Range
Posts: 2,388
Thanks, Kenneth! All that typing, and I neglected to address the question
BackInTheGame is offline  
Old April 29th, 2021, 01:31 PM
  #5  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
azehr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 30
Thanks for the info. Do you know roughly what you spent for piecing it all together individually, rather than buying a kit? I don't know anything about spring rate, or other suspension technical terms, what do you mean about spring rate?
azehr is offline  
Old April 29th, 2021, 01:33 PM
  #6  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
azehr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 30
Thanks for specifying that, that's what I was guna buy since its seems easier to piece everything together for someone like me who isn't real educated about this stuff
azehr is offline  
Old April 29th, 2021, 02:32 PM
  #7  
Administrator
 
oldcutlass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,766
Rockauto or Amazon (free shipping through prime) is about as cheap as you can get buying these parts. You just need to research your correct part numbers.
Your looking at at around $600 worth of just parts to completely rebuild the entire front end. That's upper and lower rubber control bushings, upper and lower ball joints, front springs, stabilizer links, inner and outer tie rod ends, idler arm, shocks, and drag link. You can just repair/replace the worn items and probably come out a lot cheaper.

The rear will cost about $200 for springs, upper and lower control arm bushings, and shocks.
oldcutlass is offline  
Old April 29th, 2021, 03:49 PM
  #8  
Registered User
 
Fun71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 14,114
Originally Posted by azehr
I don't know anything about spring rate, or other suspension technical terms, what do you mean about spring rate?
Here is the spring data that I grabbed off the Moog web site many years ago. I didn't see a 1969 442 so I don't know if the spring applications are the same as your 1969.







Fun71 is offline  
Old April 29th, 2021, 04:25 PM
  #9  
Registered User
 
armbrbr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 127
X2 for Moog components. They are reasonably priced and good quality IMO. Went mostly the same route as BackInTheGame, but also used Moog springs front and rear. Haven't gotten to the control arm bushings yet.
armbrbr is offline  
Old April 29th, 2021, 08:38 PM
  #10  
Registered User
 
BackInTheGame's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Colorado - Front Range
Posts: 2,388
Except for the springs, I purchased all my parts through Rock Auto and Amazon as folks have mentioned. Check your front lower control arms. There are two styles, and you need to be sure you get the correct bushings. One style has all ROUND bushings, the other style has BOTH round and OVAL.

The springs were $189/pr front and $189/pr rear at Eaton Detroit Springs.

If you need one, I inadvertently bought two Center Links. I have one NIB that needs a new home.

Last edited by BackInTheGame; April 29th, 2021 at 08:40 PM.
BackInTheGame is offline  
Old April 29th, 2021, 08:49 PM
  #11  
Registered User
 
BackInTheGame's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Colorado - Front Range
Posts: 2,388
Here is the Spring Selection page at Eaton Detroit. Lots of choices in the drop-down menus. Prices have gone up $6 since I ordered back in 2015-ish.

BackInTheGame is offline  
Old June 5th, 2021, 11:19 AM
  #12  
Registered User
 
69OldZman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Northwest Indiana
Posts: 187
Did you end up doing your suspension? I just learned I need an upper ball joint, and now I'm researching the tall ball joints which are an improvement.
69OldZman is online now  
Old June 9th, 2021, 09:10 PM
  #13  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
azehr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 30
Originally Posted by 69OldZman
Did you end up doing your suspension? I just learned I need an upper ball joint, and now I'm researching the tall ball joints which are an improvement.
I haven’t ordered anything yet. I’m getting close tho. Thanks for the heads up on that. What kind of improvement with that be?
azehr is offline  
Old June 9th, 2021, 09:13 PM
  #14  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
azehr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 30
Originally Posted by BackInTheGame
Except for the springs, I purchased all my parts through Rock Auto and Amazon as folks have mentioned. Check your front lower control arms. There are two styles, and you need to be sure you get the correct bushings. One style has all ROUND bushings, the other style has BOTH round and OVAL.

The springs were $189/pr front and $189/pr rear at Eaton Detroit Springs.

If you need one, I inadvertently bought two Center Links. I have one NIB that needs a new home.
Thanks for the info, I might take you up on it
azehr is offline  
Old June 9th, 2021, 09:15 PM
  #15  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
azehr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 30
Originally Posted by oldcutlass
Rockauto or Amazon (free shipping through prime) is about as cheap as you can get buying these parts. You just need to research your correct part numbers.
Your looking at at around $600 worth of just parts to completely rebuild the entire front end. That's upper and lower rubber control bushings, upper and lower ball joints, front springs, stabilizer links, inner and outer tie rod ends, idler arm, shocks, and drag link. You can just repair/replace the worn items and probably come out a lot cheaper.

The rear will cost about $200 for springs, upper and lower control arm bushings, and shocks.
thank you
azehr is offline  
Old August 2nd, 2021, 07:10 PM
  #16  
Registered User
 
Phoenix8990's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Asheville NC
Posts: 1,160
I ordered all Moog parts through Advanced Auto and got 20% off and picked up the same day. You can order what you know you need and if it turns out you need something else you can get it quickly. I signed up on their site and get 20 off coupons regularly, probably 2 times a month. Not sure where you live but there are many near me and the warehouse. where are you located?

Steve
Phoenix8990 is offline  
Old August 3rd, 2021, 08:48 AM
  #17  
Beer Connoisseur
 
70cutty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Daly City, California
Posts: 2,091
IMO Moog quality went downhill since they stop manufacturing parts in USA. Recently I was looking for new steering components for my 70. Ended up buying AC Delco from Rockauto, every box came with "Made in USA" on it.




70cutty is offline  
Old August 3rd, 2021, 09:36 AM
  #18  
Registered User
 
Phoenix8990's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Asheville NC
Posts: 1,160
Whats the difference between variable spring rate and constant. Is constant better for performance?
Steve
Phoenix8990 is offline  
Old August 3rd, 2021, 09:48 AM
  #19  
Beer Connoisseur
 
70cutty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Daly City, California
Posts: 2,091
Progressive (variable) springs are better for street driving and linear (constant) are better for performance driving.
That being said I've tried BMR drop springs that are Linear and UMI that are Progressive. I prefer Progressive UMI.
Nice cushy ride, but firm through the corners, doesn't bounce and bottom out like Linear (BMR) did, especially when I had kids in the back.
70cutty is offline  
Old August 3rd, 2021, 11:09 AM
  #20  
Registered User
 
acavagnaro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 592
I have replaced the suspensions and front end parts on both my '69's; a 442 and Cutlass S. I've used Moog for springs but went a different route with bushings and other parts. In the 442, I retained the factory upper and lower arms (front and rear) and replaced the rubber bushings with polygraphite from PST. On the S, I replaced the front bushings with polygraphite but changed out the original rear control arms with pieces from BMR. Easy and cost effective.
For the steering rebuild on the S, I went with parts from Pro-Forged. I did some research and these seemed like a good alternative to Moog. Reasonably priced and extremely high quality, in my opinion.
acavagnaro is offline  
Old August 3rd, 2021, 03:20 PM
  #21  
Administrator
 
oldcutlass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,766
My car was selected by Proforged to test fit their steering parts kit on a 67 Cutlass. Included a centerlink, idler arm, pitman arm, tie rod ends, and the adjusters. Easy install and the parts are still installed working flawlessly. The rest of my front suspension is all moog including the springs. For the rear I installed all UMI rear control arms with poly bushings with their rear sway bar with Moog springs. Have no complaints with their parts either.
oldcutlass is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jellish
Suspension & Handling
4
January 13th, 2020 02:07 PM
oldzy
Suspension & Handling
0
June 7th, 2011 12:11 PM
OldsManNJ
General Discussion
0
November 17th, 2010 11:47 AM
1918 willys
Drivetrain/Differentials
9
February 12th, 2009 02:53 AM
bjamincarr
Brakes/Hydraulic Systems
4
November 28th, 2008 01:55 PM



Quick Reply: Suspension advice



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:29 AM.