Greetings all ye Oldsmobilers!

I hope everyone is enjoying their holiday season!

I'm in the market for new front control arms for my '72 U code Supreme, and was looking for thoughts/opinions on these...also, are there others that you would recommend?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-1967-19...5640%7Ciid%3A1

Thanks,
Dave
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Dave, my opinion is I don't like the write-up on these A-Arms. They should mention something regarding the welds and additional information pertaining to fabrication. There's no mention of the type of bushings employed or the type of ball joints. I could go on, but in general, I do not like the write up compared to manufacturers who supply A-Body A-Arms. The price is exceedingly inexpensive, coupled with the lack of narrative regarding specifications (other than, IMO, a diatribe of gobbled gook).

Here's a nice set for your car. https://www.umiperformance.com/home/...front-arm-kit/
Take a look at the write-up when reviewing A-Body A-Arms from any of the better (IMO) manufacturer's.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...nt-lower-right

I wouldn't risk my life with A-Arms which I did not have complete confidence. The one's you are reviewing are not A-Arms I would purchase.

Generally, you'd expect to spend a minimum of ~$600.00 for a basic well constructed set of four front UCA and LCA.

 

IMHO, with parts like this you get what you paid for. I've seen too many of these off shore parts fail with broken welds or ball joints that pull apart. There are just certain parts on a car you can't cheap out on.

 

What about these?
https://www.summitracing.com/cart

 

Dave, I deleted your link. Please repost the part your interested in.

 

Dave you cannot post a link (URL) of your shopping cart. You cannot post a link which is an interactive encrypted webpage secured with an SSL certificate. This is the second time - Eric deleted your first post (which didn't work). You need to post the link (URL) of the control arms themselves which anyone/everyone can view. No one can view your personal shopping cart.

 

What about these?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/opg-ch26660-pr/

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/opg-ch26660-pr/

 

I believe these are a far better choice than your previous choice - the inexpensive tubular A-Arms. I believe the company which produces the product has a good history of at least average quality workmanship, nestled in w/ OPGI and a comparison of your two choices I would definitely go w/ this original type of control arm compared to the cheap tubular for one singular reason - this type control arm is basically one piece - stamped from a single sheet of steel w/ no welds. You don't know the thickness of the metal compared to OEM, yet a one-piece A-Arm at this price range again is, IMO, a much better choice. There are extremely solid tublular A-Arms which are excellent quality. But side-by-side, at this price range you're better off w/ a stamped piece of metal than (probably) marginal welds and more welds in your first choice of A-Arms.

 

I was wondering - is there something wrong w/ the integrity of your OEM UCA & LCA? Or, are the bushings and ball joints shot and you'd just as soon not deal w/ pressing out the ball joints and bushings and pressing in new ball joints and bushings? Just curious since the OEM control arms really are very high quality control arms (if they're in good shape).

 

For half of what 1 of these 2 purchases costs you can rebuild all 4 of your old control arms, new bushings and ball joints. For less than both pairs you can rebuild the whole front end including shocks, springs, steering linkages, brakes, wheel bearings, and sway bar links. This of course providing you doing the work yourself.

 

Yeah Norm, that was the intent. My original control arms are fine. In your opinion, is it worth the extra money to save the labor?

 

Dave - It's a trade-off, in several areas. Only you can make that decision. Personally, I gain satisfaction knowing I performed the operation myself & it was done correctly with the correct parts on the original UCA & LCA. It's very labor intensive to remove & reinstall the front UCA & LCA on both sides. Extracting & pressing in new bushings & ball joints is a cake walk requiring minimal time compared to the amount of time required to remove & reinstall the control arms and coil springs. If your bushings and ball joints must be replaced but your control arms are fine, do the work yourself & you can purchase your own ball joints & bushings with confidence. The majority (90%) of your work effort (labor) is going to be removal and reinstalling of the UCA, LCA & coil springs. The part you're going to need is a bushing extractor/press if you don't have one. A simple C-Clamp style press is all you need - you don't need a bench or floor press for this operation. You could also take the control arms to a service garage, machine shop, etc. and ask them to extract and press in the new bushings & ball joints.

 

Thanks for the input Norm... I've decided to keep my originals and just replace the bushings and ball joints. Going with Moog components from Summit.

 

This gentleman has the best video to perform the operations you are about to undertake - in case you haven't seen it and/or need a refresher (along w/ the details contained w/in your CSM).

 

Ya know, I should have asked this question to everyone before I thought about this project:
How would I know if I really need to rebuild the front suspension? I get no "clunks" or "bangs" when going over a bump, she drives fine other than a slight vibration around 70 (but I rarely run that fast anyway), and I have no excessive play in the front end. So, do I save this project for another time when I really need to do it and focus my attention (and dollars) elsewhere)?

 

The easiest way is to take it to a reputable front end shop that does old cars. Not a franchised place like Pep Boys, Meineke, or something like them. Ask some people in your area that has an old car where they take theirs, you can do this at local car shows also. When you take the car in for an alignment, usually less than $100, my last local one was around $50, ask them to do an inspection first before aligning to make sure everything is good.
Your vibration at higher speeds is probably tire/wheel balance.

 

I tried cheap Ebay arms, no good! I ended up with UMI tall ball joint arms, much better alignment specs and steering return. Just my results.
Tim

 

I'm looking for new suspension parts as well, and was leaning towards tubular arms. Aren't pretty much all of the sets sold now provided with some degree of positive caster? Wouldn't that be a benefit over the stock arms?

 

IMHO, the positive caster is a solid improvement. The cheap Ebay arms don't specify how much extra they have. I know I used the best alignment shop in Austin and they couldn't get the desired positve caster and there was no steering wheel return with the Ebay arms. They also squeaked something horrible. I spent the money for UMI upper and lowers with delrin bushings and +5 degree caster. I also opted for the tall upper ball joint option. The ball joint helps limit tire rollover in full travel turns. The alignment with these arms ended up +5, +4 1/2 IIRC. Other name brand arms will offer similar results if UMI isn't a brand you like. I also went with PDM rear tubular arms with delrin front and rubber rear bushings. I also added their 3/4" rear sway bay bar. I am very happy with the results. Compared to what I started with I have a pretty good suspension.

 

Are you in the Central Texas BOP group?

 

No, I haven't heard about it.

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/CentexBOP/

You should definitely join! Very helpful group of local guys. I give away parts on there all the time

 

And once again, my thread gets hijacked...can we please keep side convos to their own thread please?