My 70 Vert came with Hotchkis front upper control arms. Obviously I never drove the car without them so I have no idea if they made an improvement. I can't imagine why whoever put them in didn't do the lowers unless it was $$$. Anyone have any feedback on whether it is worth it to do the lowers now? Front clip is off and engine is out so it won't get any easier than now, not that the parts are cheap. Also, should I dump that red sway bar and go Hotchkis if I do the lowers? Thanks for any feedback.

 

The first thing you need to figure out is if the previous owner used the Hotchkis upper arms because this car has the B-body spindle swap. If so. the short tubular uppers are needed to correct the alignment with the later spindles. The lowers do not need to be replaced for that swap.

 

I ran Hotchkis arms with B Body spindles for years in a G Body, much improved handling.
Stock spindles measure about 7 1/8" at the ball joints, measure yours and if they're taller I'd call it good, then paint that ugly red swaybar black, or buy a bigger one��

 

The only thing with the hotchkis sway bar is you might get some rubbing on the front tire when cutting the wheel right to left and vice versa!

 

So if they are 7 1/8" it is good to leave as is or it is good to add the lowers? Or perhaps either way as long as it is 7 1/8"? I assume that is between ball joints. Thanks.

 

Can you elaborate? Why would it rub?? Thanks

 

The Hotchkis is THAT much thicker hence the clearance issues. I'm running 245/60/15s and they rub the bar at full ****. The bars Do enhance handling to the point you should consider them.

 

Hi Joe, I confirmed the spindles are indeed 8 3/4". I know you said the lowers didn't have to be done for this swap but is there are marginal benefit or is it a waste of resources? Thanks.

 

Personally, I don't see a lot of benefit. Swap them if you want for looks, but don't expect to see any real changes.

If you DO swap the LCAs, you MUST get the ones that fit the correct ball joints. The tall spindles use ball joints with a different stud taper than the originals. To use the later ball joints in the original LCAs, the ball joints need to be machined on the O.D. to fit. If you get aftermarket LCAs, they may be set up for the original ball joints or the later ones. If they are designed for the later ones, then just press the new ball joints in. If they are designed for the original ball joints, you will again need to use the later ball joints and have them machined to fit.

 

I have Hotchkis sway bar and Hotchkis upper and lower control arms on my 70 Cutlass. 245/60 on a 15" wheel with 4.5" backspacing in the front, no rubbing what so ever. Love the way it handles.

 

70cutty are you still running the factory steering box?
I thought about changing my back space when I get some newer wheels.

 

Yes still factory steering box. Hoping to upgrade it when I'm done with the engine swap.

 

I went with the AGR,day and night difference.

 

I just measured a set of B body spindles I had lying around and they are approximately 8.5 inches outside measurement from ball joint pad to ball joint pad.
That should let you know which spindles you have.


Just reread and saw where you found this already, sorry.

 

Thanks for all the feedback. Looks like I am going to keep the LCA's and paint the ugly red sway bar!