Just wondering if anyone is using full size headers with Hotchkis 1" lowering springs, and if so... how the ground-to-header clearance is? Thx.

 

I have the Hotchkis TVS kit on my 68 442 convertible wich lowered my car an inch and I have long tube headers and I have no problems. I do take it VERY easy on speedbumps and try to avoid them entirely. Do it! Youll love it!

 

Does the picture below answer any questions.I had the Hotchkis lowering springs on this car before,and it sat at the same height it does now,in the picture,with Moroso trick springs.I changed to the Moroso springs because the Hotckis were too stiff & would not transer weight at all.It was like a brick.My Milodon pan is the lowest point,and it is about 5" off the ground.I don't hit anything.The headers are up higher.

 

Not sure about Hotchkis, but I asked Global West about their 1" lowering springs and they told me the spring rate is 570 lb/in. That's outrageously stiff unless you're running a road course or autocross.

 

All of the lowering springs that I have researched consist of thicker wire,and less coils.They are all going to be on the stiff side,and better for corner-carving. The Moroso springs use a thinner wire,and more coils.They basicly compress more,then unwind to lift the car & transfer weight.

 

Brian, have you done much street driving with the Moroso springs? I want to use them but I don't want to give up driving on the street. Also, my 8qt oil pan sits about 1" below the crossmember, do the Moroso springs "bounce" when driving on the street?

I plan on using the Moroso springs for my exact weight, and QA1 adjustable shocks...

 

You got the right plan.Moroso springs with QA1 adjustables.
I have driven everywhere with those springs.The car does not bounce.If my picture was a tad brighter,you could see the bottom of my oil Milodon pan,which is slightly below the crossmember.I have not hit anything,or bottomed-out,but I also am aware of where I am driving,and know a few limitations.I would like the front of my car a little higher,but I am caught between the spring selections.Moroso makes a good selection of front springs for these cars,with different rates for different front end weights.I tried the stiffest set,which I think are the 200's,and the car sat up too high.I did not want to cut coils because then you change the whole character of the spring,so I just kept them for another car.The ones I have in the car now are the next step down,which I think are the 190's,maybe 180's(it's been awhile).The car rides smooth,and it launches exactly as it should,and I hate to mess with it to try and raise the front.Once I get the new engione in,I will see what that does.The new engine will be substantially lighter than the 507,plus I also installed an aluminum core support,which shed another 25lbs,so I am hoping it will bring the ride height up a little after all that is done.If it does not,I have a set of QA1 coil-overs to install in the front.I hate to start over though,but I will if I have to.

 

Thanks Brian, I knew you would come through. My plan is to weigh the car Friday at a local truck stop scale...any suggestions on how far to pull up on the scale to weigh just the front wheels? JoesW31 suggested marking the halfway point between the front and back wheels and pulling on the scale to that point, then weigh the whole car and figure out the distribution mathematically...

Do I need to get that technical? Or will pulling to a halfway point get me close enough to make a spring selection?

 

The halfway point should be close enough,then weigh the whole car.If this was being raced for money,there are places that can weigh each corner,or any way you want it,so you could ballast the car.

 

I have long headers , Hotchkis 1" lowering springs and Bilstien shocks , and extreme swaybars on my '68 Cutlass . While some what stiff on the back road I live on . It is great on the better maintained roads . And no , the headers don't scrape the ground . Thats with 155 70 15s 0n 3" Centerlines , or the stock 14" wheels and 205 70 14s when it still had drum brakes .
They did hit the road with the saggy old stock springs and worn out twisty shocks , and the lowering springs actually raised the car 2" and fixed the lean .
I'm very happy with it , and the ride isn't any stiffer than my Z28 .

 

The Hotchkis springs rode nice,but they didn't transfer weight at all.We took a video of the car at the track,back when I had them on,and the front barely came up at all.The tires spun,and one pass had to be aborted due to it getting real squirrely.Not cool.The only thing I changed was the front springs.I swapped the Hotchkis springs for the Morosos,and the ride height stayed the same as well.I went back to the track,and all was solved.Wheels up & straight down the track.
My opinion is the Hotchkis springs are made for the road coarse cars,or the corner carvers.They will lower the car,and help stiffen things up at the same time.They just aren't for the dragstrip.The rears might work OK at the track,but not the fronts.

 

I wouldn't discount the use of Hotchkis springs for drag racing , But I think there are better set-ups if you are purposing the car for drag only .
Shocks play more of a role in weight transfer , and the Moroso drag shocks work well . As I am sure the QA1 s do . I am guessing you set them on the least damping setting when extending ?
Spring rate , and ride height are two different things . A short stiff spring , and a tall soft spring may give the same ride height , but will react differently . the soft spring will be slower .
As long as the spring allows full travel of the suspension , you can achieve the same weight transfer . The difference being the valving of the shocks .
Drag racing shocks allow quick extension to get transfer , but slow controlled settling . This keeps the rear tires from unloading , and the oil pan / headers off the ground .
So if you want the G-Machine to turn , go with Hotchkis . If you want to go straight , Moroso , or some other such purpose designed set-up .
This is for front , the rear is something a little different .

 

Yes,I understand exactly how all the springs & shocks work.That is why the Hotchkis is better for a handling car,and not the strip.My front shocks,and all of my other suspension components stayed the same when I did the spring change.I had mentioned the ride height not changing,so it would be understood that the car still maintained the same height or stance after the spring swap.The only variable changed was the 2 front springs,and nothing else.It was a night & day difference.I have Hotchkis springs in some of my other cars,and they work great,but I don't take them to the track either.My 72 is what I run at the track,but it is not a drag-only car.It sees a lot of daily driving,to & from work,which is a 45-minute drive,occasional cruises,parades,city & highway driving,and everything in between.The car rides just fine with the Moroso springs,and the shocks I have.The car has very little bodyroll.This is also important at the track,to make it go straight.Some cars will have the right rear go down lower than the left,when launching.My car is perfectly level side-to side.The rear springs & shocks play their part,but so does the control arm bushings,sway bar,and everything else back there.Each car is different,and I do not believe in cookie-cutter suspension packages.I hand pick all my parts for everything I build.