Lee sold you two for $20, and they were both the same size, roughly the size of the one with the small hole, I'd say, though it's the outside dimensions that matter.

- Eric

 

Or you can get these fittings from Earl's part # 961955erl & 961956erl or have it cross reference to a similar product.

 

Those are both double-male adapters, which do not help to mate male hoses to female steering boxes, and which cost about $11-$15 each, plus shipping.

Useful for many things, but not for the situation in question.

- Eric

 

don't know if anyone can shed some light on my issues. have our 67 cutlass. installed the 02 ls truck motor with the 98 jeep gran cherokee steering box. used a 88-89 truck power steering pump that was recommended to go with the bracket system we used for the ps pump and the alternator. on the pump, we used the pulley off of the pump on the ls motor. now it feels like it is not getting fluid properly or something as particularly at low speeds, it almost gets where you can't turn it. the idle is about 760 or 780. I did have a used steering box, so thought maybe it was that so got a reman box from rock auto. the ps pump is a reman I got from a site on the net..an atsco or something like that. not sure if maybe I have a bad pump or I need a smaller pulley on the pump. the stock pulley is 6.5". I have been told that those pumps put out plenty enough fluid for the system but not sure if that is true or not. any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

How long did you operate the vehicle on the road before determining that there was a problem?

It usually takes several days of driving to get all the air out of the system.

- Eric

 

only drove it around the block for about maybe 10-15 minutes 3 different days.

 

In my experience that's not enough time to get all of the air out.

When I've installed P/S units, the steering hasn't felt smooth and fully boosted until after several days to a week of full-time daily driving (and that's AFTER a whole lot of lock-to-lock with the front wheels off the ground).

- Eric

 

Thank you for your input!! so, during that time, does it like stick or really hard to turn at times?

 

Yes, it is balky, stuttery, occasionally hard, and sometimes squeaky, especially at full lock. Usually these are not severe, but they're there and annoying.

Then it all just goes away.

- Eric

 

amazing!! so maybe there is nothing wrong with it. thanks again for the input!!

 

With any luck. Drive it for a while and see what happens - it shouldn't hurt anything.

Anybody else here care to add anything about their experiences?

- Eric

 

thinking about doing this swap on my car, its manual steering now and im wondering if there will be any difference in the swap since im not starting out with power steering? on a side note my stock manual box has slop in it, my entire front suspension and steering components less box have been rebuilt, is there any way to tighten it up in the mean time?

 

No difference in the swap, except for the obvious addition of pump, brackets, bracket spacers (2 of them), pulleys, belts, and hoses. You may also need to use a different Pittman arm (which is WAY different from the JGC arm), though that depends on the year, and I'm not sure about yours.

I regret that my manual to p/s swaps had always been GMs in the past, which are easy, before I decided to swap in p/s on the '67 Valiant I had years ago (in January).
MoPars use a different column ans several other completely different parts, which was not a pleasant surprise while under the car on a 15 degree day.

- Eric

 

I'm going to start collection parts for the swap. I have a 66 f85 with manual steering currently.
Do I need a pitman arm off a power steering box or can I use mine?
Does the box have to come off a grand Cherokee or can it be a plain Cherokee?
Does it matter if it's 4wd or 2wd?
I have a long water pump and accessories/brackets are all off a 77 or 8 delta. Should I just go back and pull the brackets and pump or is there a pump I can bolt on that uses the o ring fittings so I don't have to adapt? Maybe a late 80's 307 or something. Sorry if this was all covered I just skimmed through the thread

 

The '90s JGC is a completely different car from the Cherokee, with a completely different steering box -- This is an error - the "regular" cherokee does, in fact, have the same Saginaw box as our older GM cars, but the ratio, boost, and stop locations are not clear to me at this time. Poster "MarxJunk" says he has used these before with success in A-bodies.

They're the same regardless of drive configuration.

The pumps are all the same - the O-ring fitting is in the pressure relief valve, which screws into the back of the pump. You can buy them new, or get one at a "discounted" price at the junkyard.

- Eric

 

What about my pitman arm? Do I need to get one from a power box or will mine off my manual box work?

 

Sorry. I can't answer that from experience.

The part numbers are different, though.

- Eric

 

Just a heads up, may help some. I bought a power steering pump and brackets today as well as the jgc box. Got home and found that the lines on the pump I got were o ring instead of inverted flare and they worked with the jeep box no problems. Pump came off a 77 delta, for those that don't want the press in flares or custom lines.

 

i just caught this, haha do you mean a 5 finger discount?

 

Well... Junkyards don't really expect to be making any money from parts that easily fit in your pocket, like light bulbs, fuses, flashers, nuts, bolts, etc., and they all go to the crusher after a while anyway...

- Eric

 

i know all about that discount, if it fits in your pocket its free right? all i need now is the rag joint and im back in business, now with power steering.

 

I'm about to be doing this swap myself in the next couple weeks. Seems like most people were banking on the Lee Mfg. rag joint. Am I understanding things correctly that the correct rag joint to fit with the new JGC box can come off of an early 80's GM pickup? 1500 series pickup I am assuming?

So the "kit" would go as follows:

95 JGC box
Pitman arm from my car
80 GM pickup rag joint
O-ring style PS hose connectors from wherever

Does that seem correct?

 

Yes.

The Dorman and Lares part numbers for the rag joint are listed somewhere earlier in this thread, but you can confirm them by looking at the various parts' specifications on the manufacturers' web sites.

- Eric

 

Mine came off an 84 suburban

 

Is the 95 JGC steer box a Lares 11182 or a Delphi 670? That's what I see out on RockAuto.

 

used the rock auto lares 1353 in ours.

 

I used a Lares 1353 box with a Lares 200 rag joint. I also used the fittings from Summit for the hoses.

 

What year and make did you find the 1353 from RockAuto?

 

Never mind I found it under 97 JGC. Did you also get the rag joint from RA? And if so under what? And then did you say Summit for the fittings? How did you order them under what make and model and year?

 

I did get the rag joint from RA. Just search Lares 200 under parts search and it should come up. Summit has the fitting, but you can get them other places. I ordered from them because I was placing an order anyway. Here's a couple links, or just search Borgeson Universal 925122

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/brg-925122

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291526972968...3D986708647830

 

called dorman to make sure I got the right one and got my rag joint off e-bay if i recall correctly.

 

Thanks dfire I am going to follow your lead and get mine done up....

 

Are you sure you used the Lares 200? Earlier in this thread I believe someone stated the correct part numbers for ragjoint were either the Lares 202, or the Dorman 31011.

I am about to be ordering the parts for this as well, and I just want to clear this up once and for all.

Maybe both joints do in fact work? They are both 3/4 in.

 

Maybe both will work, I don't know. But I used the 200 and it's installed and working fine. I'll be starting the car up in a couple days so I'll post on here how the box feels while the car is running.

 

dorman 31011 is the one I used.

 

I used the lares 200 coupler on my JGC box. It was $25 shipped from rockauto.

 

I got my stuff from Rockauto as well. Gear box $106.99, coupling $16.21. The gear box has a $50 core charge, but I kept the old one. The total with shipping was $132.38.

 

Someone will have to post how the adaptors all worked out...

 

tagging in just to keep tabs on this great idea

 

So I spoke to Lares this morning. Got some interesting input from them. The guy was very helpful, but I believe he was slightly mistaken. I asked him about my application and the 1353 box and which ragjoint to use. He told me the 1353 gear box has a half moon shaped shaft and will not work properly with the 202 ragjoint. Further more, he told me, or I believe he was telling me, that the 973 gear box was the same exact box as the 1353, only it came with the ragjoint and doesn't have the o-ring connectors. So, he said the 1353 features the same components and feel per say as the OE A-body boxes, which again is the 973. Furthermore, they claim the upgraded box, the 974 which is what RetroRanger used to great success, is really what I would need for an upgraded feel. Finally, the nice feller on the phone noted that the 970 box was identical to the 973, only one of them has a 3 hole mount, and the other a 4 hole mount. I believe the 970 has the 4 hole mount with the extra tab just sticking out or something. Basically he said the 970 box was an exact replica to the factory box, more for show cars, where the 973 was a direct replacement. Hmmmmm any thoughts? What do you 1353 box guys have to say about his comment that the 1353 is not an upgrade from the stock box?