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So I decided to pull the trigger on a speedway front suspension kit. Have a control arms,qa1 coil overs and disc brake. Also included drop spindles. I saved the steering arms. That were on the car which had drum brakes all around. I know I need upgraded steering arms as the bolt hold is too small. But how do I know I’m buying the right ones. Am I looking for disc brake or power steering arms.
I don’t remember what size it was I do have a set of snap on bits, but I don’t recall it being really hard metal. A machine shop could do it for you as well. Or a good metal drill bit.
Drum and disk brake cars used the same steering arms. Chevelles used different arms for manual and power steering. Olds used the same arms for manual and power steering. Early A-body cars used the smaller bolts to hold the arms to the spindles. Drilling the holes out is easy, or just get later arms. The 1964-72 Cutlass arms are all the same length. Only the attaching bolt holes vary.
Drum and disk brake cars used the same steering arms. Chevelles used different arms for manual and power steering. Olds used the same arms for manual and power steering. Early A-body cars used the smaller bolts to hold the arms to the spindles. Drilling the holes out is easy, or just get later arms. The 1964-72 Cutlass arms are all the same length. Only the attaching bolt holes vary.
ok that’s the issue. The bolt is 1/2 in. I was reading around and saw there were a few different lengths as well. Something to do with turning speed. I could use the quicker arms since nothing is gonna be stock always. I tried drilling using 3 different bits and I couldn’t get thru. I do have one single arm that is the right size. Checked all the stuff that came with the car and couldn’t find the matching one. If I can’t drill it I will have to pick up a new set.
Last edited by Sharkbite55; December 9th, 2022 at 06:11 AM.
I don’t remember what size it was I do have a set of snap on bits, but I don’t recall it being really hard metal. A machine shop could do it for you as well. Or a good metal drill bit.
I know I need a 1/2 in bit to fit the bolt. I will keep trying but yeah it’s some tough metal.
ok that’s the issue. The bolt is 1/2 in. I was reading around and saw there were a few different lengths as well. Something to do with turning speed. I could use the quicker arms since nothing is gonna be stock always.
Changing the arms without changing the rest of the steering linkage is a good way to screw up the ackerman steering angles. Unless you understand steering geometry and what effect each change has, I wouldn't recommend it.
Changing the arms without changing the rest of the steering linkage is a good way to screw up the ackerman steering angles. Unless you understand steering geometry and what effect each change has, I wouldn't recommend it.
well as of now I have nothing that is stock. I was going to go with the proforged steering kit but have to find out what size I need. I’m just slapping parts together at this point and hoping the alignment shop can correct anything. The speedway kit changed everything for this car.
Alignment can't correct fundamental errors in steering geometry caused by mismatched parts. This is a great way to spend a lot of money to make handling worse. Of course, after spending all that time and money, I guarantee that your "butt G-meter" (a close relative to the butt-dyno) will confirm that there's an improvement. Actual track times, no so much. Your money, your call.
Alignment can't correct fundamental errors in steering geometry caused by mismatched parts. This is a great way to spend a lot of money to make handling worse. Of course, after spending all that time and money, I guarantee that your "butt G-meter" (a close relative to the butt-dyno) will confirm that there's an improvement. Actual track times, no so much. Your money, your call.
I hear you but I’m not sure how to correct the problem. It would seem if I was to go with your logic I should buy everything from speedway since I already have the kit. Even the steering box was changed out on this car. I picked it up and it’s easy to tell this car wasn’t worth a damn. So starting from the speedway drop spindles I should use their arms as well? Unless I’m missing something it’s seems that the stock arms would be out of place if everything else has been changed. Thank you
I hear you but I’m not sure how to correct the problem. It would seem if I was to go with your logic I should buy everything from speedway since I already have the kit. Even the steering box was changed out on this car. I picked it up and it’s easy to tell this car wasn’t worth a damn. So starting from the speedway drop spindles I should use their arms as well? Unless I’m missing something it’s seems that the stock arms would be out of place if everything else has been changed. Thank you
I have no idea how the aftermarket parts were designed, so it is impossible to offer useful answers. One might ASSUME the parts from a single vendor would be designed to work together, but that assumption has been wrong more times than I care to count. The steering box replacement is the least of your problems, since all that matters is that the pitman shaft is in the same place as stock (and it would be very difficult for it not to be). The length of the pitman arm, the length of the idler arm, the configuration of the center link, and the length of the steering arms all matter. The dropped spindles also matter, but to a lesser degree. Your real problem is bump steer. You'll be hard pressed to find an alignment shop that even knows what that is, much less what to do about it. My experience with alignment shops is that they will say "it has aftermarket parts, we can't align it". This is why I have my own alignment equipment.
I hear you but I’m not sure how to correct the problem. It would seem if I was to go with your logic I should buy everything from speedway since I already have the kit. Even the steering box was changed out on this car. I picked it up and it’s easy to tell this car wasn’t worth a damn. So starting from the speedway drop spindles I should use their arms as well? Unless I’m missing something it’s seems that the stock arms would be out of place if everything else has been changed. Thank you
I have no idea how the aftermarket parts were designed, so it is impossible to offer useful answers. One might ASSUME the parts from a single vendor would be designed to work together, but that assumption has been wrong more times than I care to count. The steering box replacement is the least of your problems, since all that matters is that the pitman shaft is in the same place as stock (and it would be very difficult for it not to be). The length of the pitman arm, the length of the idler arm, the configuration of the center link, and the length of the steering arms all matter. The dropped spindles also matter, but to a lesser degree. Your real problem is bump steer. You'll be hard pressed to find an alignment shop that even knows what that is, much less what to do about it. My experience with alignment shops is that they will say "it has aftermarket parts, we can't align it". This is why I have my own alignment equipment.
Honestly I don’t understand why it’s hard to drill the mounting holes I had mine in a vice with a slow hf air drill. I can’t see a machine shop charging more than a hrs time to drill them might be worth looking into
Honestly I don’t understand why it’s hard to drill the mounting holes I had mine in a vice with a slow hf air drill. I can’t see a machine shop charging more than a hrs time to drill them might be worth looking into
I’m not sure when I tried with the 3 bits I had it barely budged. Would be easier with a drill press. But now old brought up some good points. I will have to do a bit of research and make sure I’m not going too far. I’m on the pro touring forum as well I will ask them for some advise on the matter.
I have no idea how the aftermarket parts were designed, so it is impossible to offer useful answers. One might ASSUME the parts from a single vendor would be designed to work together, but that assumption has been wrong more times than I care to count. The steering box replacement is the least of your problems, since all that matters is that the pitman shaft is in the same place as stock (and it would be very difficult for it not to be). The length of the pitman arm, the length of the idler arm, the configuration of the center link, and the length of the steering arms all matter. The dropped spindles also matter, but to a lesser degree. Your real problem is bump steer. You'll be hard pressed to find an alignment shop that even knows what that is, much less what to do about it. My experience with alignment shops is that they will say "it has aftermarket parts, we can't align it". This is why I have my own alignment equipment.
as of now I’m looking like a chevelle as far as the aftermarket parts I’m using. So if I look into it that way maybe I will find more guidance. One of these days next week maybe I can call speedway and see what they recommend. When I built my nova a few years ago I changed everything out and don’t recall having any issues. And if I have to do my own alignment I might be in trouble. I’m sure there’s a shop that can do it just might not be cheap
December 8th, 2022, 04:47 PM
