Problem fixed. Thank you everyone for your help.

 

As you found out a thermostat has nothing to do with max temp, it controls the minimum operating temp. What you have is an airflow problem, have you checked to make sure your clutch fan is operating correctly. Is your shroud damaged or has large gaps? Is there anything blocking the radiator preventing air from going through correctly?

 

Yes, you've replaced a bunch of parts that may or may not have been bad, but you have not told us whether the original factory setup, which worked fine as designed, is intact and functional.

- Eric

 

Well stated
Water pump ID characters or digits if OEM unit, and maybe pulley identifications or at least approximate diameters? Pulley sizes affect the speed of the water pump with respect to crank speed.

 

Fixed

 

No you didn't. All you said was, "I also installed dual electric fans."



So what was wrong with the factory fan, clutch, and shroud, then?

And why remove them, rather than place the aftermarket fans on the front of the radiator or condenser?

To answer your question (okay, to repeat the answer to your question):
Your engine cools down once you are cruising at 40mph.
Your problem is not your water pump.

- Eric

 

Something to note, can you verify the temp with a second gauge to check if the first gauge is accurate? Usually a temp gauge is in a hole in a head in a cooling jacket. The other head might have a spot for an aftermarket one, or maybe it's doing something dumb like a TCS system. Be careful pulling 40 year old plugs.

 

Fixed

 

Fixed

 

Agreed, lets verify your temps first. But your original radiator with A/C should have been a three core, unless somebody replaced it? The original radiator could have had the tanks cut off and put a new core section in it with more fins per inch (AKA as more surface area) I went from my stock unit of 6 fins per inch to 14 per inch. I can sit and cruise Woodward during the dream cruise and not go more than 205 on a hot day.

As far as excluding Eric (MDchanic) from helping even though his intentions were good and he may have gotten off on the wrong foot is a little fool hardy! He has helped many people solve problems on this forum.

Pat

 

Sorry, I was preoccupied with multitasking when I read your original post. I still believe you have an airflow issue. A lot of aftermarket electric fans do not produce enough cfm to cool. Some shrouds of some of the electric fans actually impede airflow and create cooling issues. In addition some aftermarket radiators although made of aluminum are thicker but the distance between the fins actually allow less cooling. I'm not ruling out the water pump, it could be an option also.

 

What temp does it run on the highway? It should run 160 or close to it. Make sure your A/C condensor is blown out with straight fins. Make sure you buy an A/C replacement water pump with a closed impellar. Nothing wrong with electric fans IF they move enough air. Other than US made Derale fans, few aftermarket fans do. I run Dodge Stratus dual fans and they drop the temp quickly in traffic.

 

Because I found your posts devoid of useful information for us to work with.

You have so far introduced at least five unknown factors into your engine and are asking us to give you quality advice on the basis of those and the single piece of information that the car overheats when not moving (you are still not clear on what happens when you sit in one place and rev the engine - ambient temperature, engine speed, amount of engine temperature rise).

1. Removed factory fan - How big was it, and how many blades?
2. Removed factory fan clutch - What condition was it in?
3. Removed factory radiator - Single-row? They didn't make those, and, as was pointed out, all A/C cars got 3- or 4-row radiators.
4. Added aftermarket radiator - What model? What dimensions? What fin pitch?
5. Added aftermarket electric fans - What model? What CFM? How were they installed?

You have provided a bunch of extremely subjective information, without even a photograph, and are asking us to provide specific advice. Sorry, no can do.

I'm sure you'll figure it out.

- Eric

 

Fixed

 

Fixed

 

Fixed

 

Fixed

 

It may help running the stock fan and clutch. It sounds like flow if it gets hot on the highway, either air or coolant. My current 2 core aluminum rad out cools the 3 core Champion aluminum rad I had in the car. I don't run fans on the highway, never need them.

 

I knew you'd figure it out.

- Eric

 

And what fixed it? So others may learn.

 

X2.
Don't hide your light under a bushel, share what was was wrong and how;
a, You found out what the problem(s) was.
b, You fixed whatever was the cause.

Reading your thread and just seeing "Fixed" in all your posts strikes me as either you were embarrassed because you made a beginners error, or you don't want to share. It also comes across to me at least as rude and ignorant to forum members who have tried to help.

Roger.

 

well, he is a squrry assassin you know.....maybe sociopath

 

Please.... elaborate!

 

Agreed. I'd like to know what was wrong so I don't ever do the same thing.

 

Well, you know what they say about a squirrel's attention span...

Also, you know how easy squirrels are to startle - I think all of my specific questions scared him off.

- Eric

 

He'll I would like to know. I said just today I can't believe they would sell cars that overheat. I put every seal in that factory did, replaced the radiator with new, new fan clutch, used water wetter, new thermostat, but at idle and 65 mph on highway it gets hot. If you have the answer share it.

 

I suggest you start a new thread with more details of your car, (model, year, engine, modifications etc) and how your car behaves Gary. This thread has become irritating to me.

Roger.

 

So you do not recommend Champion radiators as a replacement for factory radiators.

 

No, they cool OK at best, would work for a mild 350 but ran 200+ in hot weather with my 403 and over heated towing my boat. This was with a high flow 160 thermostat, then without one, with a 7 blade clutch fan and shroud and then my dual Stratus electric fans. I never completely eliminated cooling issues till I removed my under drive fancy aluminum pulleys. Something like a Griffin two core will do much better than a Champion rad.

 

I agree with Roger - this is something better addressed in a new thread.

That being said, was your block boiled out, or did you give it a really good flush, with the block drain plugs out, and, if possible, a bent coat hanger used to probe inside the block plug holes to loosen up any debris?

It sounds to me like the block itself is your one remaining variable.

- Eric

 

I had over heating problems in the past...went to oreillys and got a fan clutch new radiator and therm and while i was at it changed the hoses too..,never had a problem with heating again...

 

In my case it turned out the water pump was (by part number ) for a non AC car. Found the old receipt from past owner and looked up the number. The pump looked like pics on the internet of the AC version though. I put in a FlowKooler pump and immediately saw a big difference. Sold the car shortly after.