Hi Guys,

There was a thread on this from months ago but a lot has changed so I thought I'd just start a new one.

First of all thanks to Tony for his patience on this build. We had to wait for pistons, then the lifters, then a cam change etc.

Build specs;

DX Block bored to 4.155, studded
425 crank ground to BBC rod size, 4.00 stroke
Mahle Flat top piston, .012-.014 in the hole
Scat I beam BBC Rods
Edelbrock heads, minor bowl clean up, stock size valves (see head info under "Procomp vs Edelbrock")
Edelbrock Victor intake, minor gasket match. (it was not taken out to the head size)
.921 hyd roller lifters, new design
Lunati Hyd Roller 234/240@.050, .592/.595 lift with HS 1.6/1.65 rockers
108 lobe sep, in at 105.
10.3:1 compression
Quick Fuel 830 Black Diamond carb, 75/83 jets
Flow Tech 1 3/4 headers (not the best for this build but it's all we had)
Mondello 8qt pan and matching pickup.
Melling Hv oil pump
Cloyes Billet timing set
Mallory Electronic Distributor
Accel 9000 wires and Silver tipped spark plugs


471hp/497tq, I will post the dyno sheets and further temp info. This is the dyno room temp.
I have mentioned it many times, I believe guys are cheating when using colder water out temps, that's extra dyno room hp that you will never see. I'll post that info as well.

Thanks guys!!!!

 

Dyno and corresponding temp sheets;

 

Someone just passed this along to me;
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...t/viewall.html

Scroll down. You see why I've always said that some peoples' dyno runs are bs!
Couple this with hot underhood air and you can throw those hyped up dyno numbers out the window. Some guys even use underdriven pulleys.

I'm not sure why people do this, well I guess I do know. But even my dyno pulls should have been done at an even hotter temp. But at least mine are much closer to operating temp than most others.

Just trying to set the record straight. There's a lot of good info on the net, but there's a lot of bad info too.

 

Thanks for sharing your "real world" results Mister Mark!