My car had been sitting for the past 10 years, garaged the whole time. However none of the fluids were drained by the previous owner.

I recently restarted with new fluids and the oil came out super thick before the restart, and not even that much at that. So i know there has to be some buildup inside. I recently removed the distributor and found a lot of really thick buildup on the shaft.

I have yet to remove the valve covers to check out the rockers. Is there anyway to clean out this sludge without having to rebuild the engine? There is also a knock that i am trying to pinpoint, it comes and goes depending on the timing (a whole other issue!!)

I've read about using diesel fuel on the rockers with the pan dropped, using seafoam in the crankcase, transmission fluid in the crank case...

Im planning on going on a road trip in June and need this car road worthy.

 

Sounds like it might be time for a rebuild.

Just sayin.

 

IF you have already started engine up after 10yrs sitting (sounds like you have) its not surprising you hear a knock or so unless you spun the oil pump..slowly turned crank by hand etc. if it were me i would run the engine hot a few times then drain oil and see what it looks like and take it from there.

 

I have been running that car a bit, i've driven it maybe 6-7 times. I did spin the car with fresh oil by hand first, then cranking it with the coil disconnected.

I've also replaced the oil twice since i started it up per a start-up procedure i got from an old mechanic. The oil has since come out, does seem to be thicker than normal upon draining.

I read that maybe using a 15w40 oil might help in relieving the knocking and helping the old seals out. But to me that sounds counter productive in regards to flushing out the sludge.

 

hey buddie maybe and just maybe you have spark knock going on from when you primed the engine i presume you did pull the distributor, and check the timing then retard it down to lets say about 8 degrees btdc. I would also check everything that is a long time to sit. I do not think definitely that you need a rebuild though. I have seen personally many rebuilt engines sitting around for extended periods of time.

 

sounds like the last poster makes sense....if you removed dist. the timing could be off and thats why you have an intermittent knock. The knock would be the my first issue to deal with and worry about the dirty engine after that. pulling the valve cover will tell you right away if the engine is gunked and carboned up ...or just real old thick oil deposits that can be treated with additives

 

Man, im hoping that knock isnt anything in the bottom end. I have been having some timing issues that im resolving in a nother thread. Once i get that going, hopefully i rid this knock.

My manual says to put it at 5* BTDC, I could try 8*

 

Year, make, model, engine, trans, mileage etc...It helps with sight-unseen troubleshooting.

Lower end knock nothing but a rebuild will solve the knock. Top end tick can be anything from spark knock (pre or post ignition), lifter, rocker, cam, exhaust etc...

To asses general health of an unknown engine step one whats the oil pressure at idle and at 2000rpm warm? Drain & examine the warm oil for metal, cut the filter open examine the elements pleats etc...Your going to have to get a few miles on it for this to tell you anything with fresh oil. By then it may be too late but it wont matter anyway as either way it needed a rebuild if its crank bearings.
Step two is a compression and leak down test.
Step three is if 1 & 2 prove "good" read the spark plugs and asses the general state of tune...timing, dwell, plugs & plug wires etc...and fix as needed. Recheck for the sound.
If all this checks and its still knocking time to tear down for inspection. Thats for a knock not a tick usually a big difference between the two.
What did you do with the fuel system?

 

1960 371cui Dynamic 88. I am not sure of the mileage but am 99% it has not been rebuilt.

The next oil change i will drain it hot and examine for particles, i have done one change since the initial start up. I DID NOT examine it at that particular time.

I will have to buy a compression tester. I had the carburetor rebuilt and puled the #1 plug, it was fairly sooty and smelled of gas, that was pre-carb rebuild.

I added some seafoam to the engine (down carb, in oil fill and gas tank) after the carb rebuild, and only drove it once before it shut off on me again. That topic is in another thread that im resolving with points conversion and fuel line replacement.

I have no idea how i can read the oil pressure, where on the 371 can i get a brass fitting in to read the oil pressure?

 

There has to be a port to tap into somewhere on that block. Not being familiar with the older blocks Ill give general info. The oil filter adapter can have a 1/8" port. Look for the switch where the idiot light plugs into. That is a galley pressure port. Remove the idiot light switch and thread in a gauge at that spot. Better yet get your self a good quality (not china) double or triple gauge set and mount it under dash. I cant ever under stand not wanting to see the engine vitals via a gauge vs a light. Its too late if the light illuminates.

 

If you have a stock 1960 Olds you have a 394 engine NOT a 371.... the 371 was used in '57 and '58 only.

If you put your location in your personal info we may be able to help you find a knowledgeable person to give you some hands-on help with your timing issue, too. I know the guys on the HAMB are everywhere and you have some early Olds experts there, too.

 

I've never found anything better than a pint of diesel fuel in the oil pan and running the engine for 30 minutes or so (not under load!) for shifting sludge build up.

Roger.

 

Is it best to drop the whole pan to get out most of the released gunk? Then repeat with fresh 10w30?

 

My 64 88 had sat a long time. In the first 300 mile I changed the oil 4 times. each oil change I added a good amount of marvel mystery oil. During the next 1000 miles I changed oil three more times...and oil began looking like it should. I removed oil pan and valve covers and cleaned them. I also made sure that when I removed valve covers I made sure all oil bypass and oil tubes were free and clear. I used pipe cleaners. The ticking has gone and engine runs fine

 

Awesome, i actually have some Marvel Mystery Oil laying around, i'll give that a shot. What oil did you use during the change? Did you go cheap because of the frequent changes?

 

You need to post a photo of a real Pachuco....

 

First three oil changes I used a basic 30W and cheap filters. All since have been with a high quality oil and WIX filter ( its bigger and is good quality) Don't ask what's a good oil....you'll get a 1000 answers ha ha