I've tried everything and can't get this thing out - I just put it in less than 6 months ago too! Of course it's on the driver's side - 2nd cylinder back from grill (#6?) but at least it's the top stud.

I've tried propane/MAPP torches, every vice grip ever made, gallons of PB Blaster....it won't budge. I'd rather not take the head off since I've heard torquing head bolts in an aluminum block can be tricky - any ideas? I'm going to JB Weld a pair of vice grips to the stud tonight (ghetto - I know) since the main issue is even brand new vise grips won't grip the stud....if this doesn't work and nobody has a better idea I'll pull the head.

 

I get this all the time in rusty Michigan

Heat is crucial
a small torch will never do what a big one will, esp. with Aluminum sucking the heat away rapidly. It's a time related phenomenon. Heat flow varies with time and temp differential. A large [garage type] acetylene torch will inject the heat so rapidly that it will have the desired effect at the location of interest. A small torch will heat so slowly that the heat basically dissipates into the surrounds.

Then of course you must be able to grip the stud. Tighten the VG [Vice Grips] so much that you must grunt to close them. Seriously. And do the gripping right next to the VG jaws pivot- don't use wire cutter type VG. This provides the best leverage on the victim.

Candle wax is the best penetrating lube but apply before the part is exceedingly heated and beware the flammable vapors. Let it cool, like overnight. Strike the stud axially [in line with it] a little with a hammer.

Then attack with full heat. All of it. As much as you can get. Place the tip of the blue cone [the hottest part of the flame] right on the sharpest corner you can find near the site. Corners take heat more rapidly. Play the flame all over the area, especially any corners in the area. Heat it "a lot" - with iron, we shoot for red, but with AL you can melt stuff, so be cautious. Have the VG pre-adjusted and sitting there handy. An assistant to grab the torch and babysit it while you work your VG voodoo is always a good idea.

Right when you remove the torch, immediately cool the stud, which shrinks it and keeps it from being too weak. You can use an ice cube, compressed air, or douse the flame and use Torch Oxygen. Again, work fast because time is crucial. Clamp the VG as hard as you can, wiggling them to dig into the stud. If you are not grunting or yelling to clamp them, it's not enough. Seriously.

Then work the VG back and forth with increasing force until
it comes loose- apply more wax and continue
it breaks off- pull the head
you are afraid of breaking it off- call it a day, apply a little wax, come back tomorrow and repeat starting with heat.

 

Sounds like either galvanic corrosion or galled threads. Try Chris' methods, but when you've had enough a Heli-Coil solves this problem.

 

To back up what Chris said, every time that I've used heat, and it didn't work, I found that the problem was that I didn't use enough heat.

Adding more heat always solves the problem, but be careful of aluminum, and of heat-susceptible items beyond the flame. An old piece of asbestos can be very handy when using a torch in tight spaces to keep the flame off of things you want to avoid.

- Eric

 

Thanks for the responses - turned out after removing valve cover (was going to take head off) I was able to get a pipe wrench on stud and that did the trick - can't believe I didn't think of removing valve cover earlier.

 

Or, you could just do that!

wow what an easy time you had with that!

You ain't in the Rust Belt, are you, sir?