350 across the garage floor

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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 09:20 PM
  #1  
805cut's Avatar
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350 across the garage floor

Got the block all torn down, just wanted to share some pics with you guys for some feed back.

Im hope that the machine shop costs are low with this one, obviously i will do what i got to do and assume there will be some cylinder taper or something..

I was looking at the rebuild kits on summit, what do you guys think of those? Ones 4.057 in. Bore, .030 in. Rod, .030 in. Main and the other 4.087 in. Bore, .010 in. Rod, .010 in. Main im assumeing the machining will determine which one i go with both come with speed pro pistons and are $629.95 ofcorse that not everything..

Id like to do a nice stock build, with a little extra kick. any words of advice would be great !
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Are these heads any good? obviously need some work but are these castings any good?
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the little bastard!
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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 09:32 PM
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The best place to buy your engine parts is www.EGGE.com. To get a little more performance, I would upgrade the camshaft a little, but not too much. As you stated, you won't know your oversizes until the machine shop grinds your crankshaft and bores the block. Make sure you have all the rods resized.
Old Jun 20, 2012 | 11:39 PM
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first have the machine shop tell you what you need. You might only need to go .010 on the rods and mains. and sometimes you can get away with honing the cylinders and running a forged piston and save the boring cost . the speed pro kit is a good bang for the buck.
Old Jun 21, 2012 | 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by coppercutlass
first have the machine shop tell you what you need. You might only need to go .010 on the rods and mains. and sometimes you can get away with honing the cylinders and running a forged piston and save the boring cost . the speed pro kit is a good bang for the buck.
X duece

I haven't bought from egge but they have good prices and your in Cal maybe a short roadtrip. Good luck and good pics post of the rebuild, also how the machine shop does and charge I'm near your area and we only have one show in town and he is expensive.
Old Jun 21, 2012 | 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Fakser
X duece

I haven't bought from egge but they have good prices and your in Cal maybe a short roadtrip. Good luck and good pics post of the rebuild, also how the machine shop does and charge I'm near your area and we only have one show in town and he is expensive.
The kits from egge are pretty nice, got alot more to them then the ones on summit. http://www.egge.com/kits?make=OLDSMOBILE&year=1970 just dont know what parts they use..
Old Jun 21, 2012 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by coppercutlass
first have the machine shop tell you what you need. You might only need to go .010 on the rods and mains. and sometimes you can get away with honing the cylinders and running a forged piston and save the boring cost . the speed pro kit is a good bang for the buck.
I like speed pro but egge is pretty close to my house, or atleast close enough to make shipping QUICK plus there kit seems to come with everything to put that motor together off one pallet minus your cam and a few other things.. My only issue with it is, what the hell parts are they selling me? Nothings listed on the site, im sure i could call them ofcorse..
Old Jun 21, 2012 | 09:07 AM
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i think egge makes their own pistons and they cast aluminum not forged. The speed pro kit comes with all name brand parts clevite bearings fel pro gaskets etc.
Old Jun 21, 2012 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by coppercutlass
i think egge makes their own pistons and they cast aluminum not forged. The speed pro kit comes with all name brand parts clevite bearings fel pro gaskets etc.
Whats the diffrence between the two performance wise...?
Old Jun 21, 2012 | 12:28 PM
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Why not let the machine shop order the parts and sell them to you? I bet you the price is competetive, and they can usually put together a custom kit. Even if it is a tad more expensive, you have the benefit of an experienced professional ordering the correct parts.

You don't need forged, the problem is selection is limited. Most cast are de-stroked and/or with a big dish.
Old Jun 21, 2012 | 12:43 PM
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For what it's worth and I know a lot of people don't like doing business with Mondello's I got their Icon forged aluminum flat top pistons .030 over for the 350 for 540$ which is a good price for a good piston. After that all you need is the kit from Egge which looks like you can tailor to only the parts you want rather than buying a box with everything.
Old Jun 21, 2012 | 01:08 PM
  #11  
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The only reason I would recommend the forged is because later down the road if you wanna go with bigger cam and bum compression your bottom end is done if it's still in good shape. You can mill the heads run a thinner gasket etc. If you go with cast pistons they have their limits.
Old Jun 21, 2012 | 04:18 PM
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I agree with captjim; First let your machine shop tell you what parts you need as it appears your engine will have to bored, crank will have to be cut, the rods will have to be re-sized with new rod bolts. Also, install the larger 2" intake valve, and 1.625 exhaust valve.


Also check with cutlassefi for a camshaft,lifters, springs, etc.. once you have selected your other parts.
Old Jun 24, 2012 | 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by captjim
Why not let the machine shop order the parts and sell them to you? I bet you the price is competetive, and they can usually put together a custom kit. Even if it is a tad more expensive, you have the benefit of an experienced professional ordering the correct parts.

You don't need forged, the problem is selection is limited. Most cast are de-stroked and/or with a big dish.
the machine shop im going dose not build the engine, just works on the block and thats it.. i trust them for what they do but cant say those guys down there are the brightest but then again im not either..

This is pretty much my first real teardown of anything on this scale, im trying to learn get opinions and form my own so i guess im just a little wound up with all the options out there.. im not going to build the engine obviously, but i want to know each and every part that is in that engine really is what its said to be.. therefore coming forward with my own parts makes me feel better, thats just how i am
Old Jun 24, 2012 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 805cut
the machine shop im going dose not build the engine, just works on the block and thats it.. i trust them for what they do but cant say those guys down there are the brightest but then again im not either..

This is pretty much my first real teardown of anything on this scale, im trying to learn get opinions and form my own so i guess im just a little wound up with all the options out there.. im not going to build the engine obviously, but i want to know each and every part that is in that engine really is what its said to be.. therefore coming forward with my own parts makes me feel better, thats just how i am
I find this a bit confusing. The machine shop is a vital component in an engine build, they will end up determining clearances and other important elements. They will play a HUGE factor in the success of the project. And they "are not the brightest"??

Ever heard the expression "too many chefs ruin the stew"? You will get a bunch of conflicting input from guys with varying degrees of experience.
You may end up confused and frustrated. IMO, you are better off choosing one shop/builder/vendor to help you make all of your decisions. I have seen guys make very bad decisions relying on internet forums alone.
Another suggestion is to copy an existing build. This won't help with machining but will with parts selection, it is all about the combination.
Old Jun 24, 2012 | 05:19 PM
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I agree with captjim that if your machine shop does not know wtf they are doing or dont seem bright bail out. I usually buy my parts though because the machine shop already pays a mark up and they mark it up. On my current sbo build i took them the bearing and stuff to balance my roating assembly. They have no issue with me doing this they just dont touch any of it untill they have the parts. I would have them do the cylinder heads first and build a relationship with the machine shop then once you bring in the short block they will be more flexible and give you break on prices some times. In my case this was my experience.
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