XMWZ001

Hey guys,

I couldnt find a thread covering this subject(probably overlooked it). I have built my new motor which is a 69' 350 9.7:1, #5 heads with a port job and large valves, Edelbrock Perfomer and Holley Street Avenger 670.....yadda yadda. I put a Lunati Voodoo 60802 in her and broke it in with pleny of break in lube, Rotella T and a pint of Lucas break in oil. So after break in what type of oils do you like to use? Should i stick with the Rotella or a similar high zinc heavy oil? Synthetic? Any and all opinions are greatly appreciated!

cutlassgal

Oh boy...... oil again, lol! You're gonna get a million different replies on this subject!! There are a lot of threads on oil in here somewhere, lol! Good luck!!

XMWZ001

I suppose ill try and search a bit harder, dont want to stir up the pot too much!

cutlassefi

Joe Gibbs.
Rotella has too much detergent.

Oldsmaniac

Castrol is pushing a 20w-50 synthetic that is for older cars and claims to have zinc....20-50 would not be my first choice. I just broke in a 67 400 with Brad Penn breakin oil and will be using their zinc oil mostly because the machine shop recommends it.

oldcutlass

I'm waiting to see this new rislone additive with zddp to show up on shelves. I currently use Valvoline racing oil in mine.

ziff396

I'm running Royal Purple 10-40 which claims to have enough zinc content. However, I add 1.5 oz, of Lucus zinc additive to be on the safe side as Lucus recomends.

Nilsson

If you let price and availability decide VR1 is the winner. Stay away from diesel oils as mentioned to much detergent.

71 Cutlass

Amsoil---10-40 with the high zinc and phosphorus content

J-(Chicago)

Mobil 1 15-50 on the street.
0W -50 in competition.

I do break in with SAE 30 non detergent farm oil, and comp cams' break in additive bottles.

jdana24

Joe Gibbs Drive HR-4

442scotty

Gonna start using Joe Gibbs 5/30 because its readily avail here

Tony72Cutlass'S'

I've recently purchased a bottle of rislone zinc (yellow bottle) it seems to work great, it actually made a faint ticking go away when i changed the oil last time, the bottle is around 10 bucks.

-Tony

XMWZ001

I appreciate all the responeses ( even if the subject has been beaten to death)

I didnt see many responses for Brad Penn, anyone have any experience with "The Green Oil"? Brad Penn seams to be easier for me to get locally than Joe Gibbs.

Thanks again in advance.

tonycpe

My buddy has been using brad penn for years and i am going to try it in the near future in 10w30.
i have been using vr-1 in 20-50 but want to go to 10w30.

rocketraider

On a fresh engine, what difference does detergency make? I ask because this is the first time I've heard use of diesel oil questioned on that basis.

cutlassefi

It doesn't allow enough time for the moly to penetrate the lobes. Erson now recommends a regular 10W-30 or 10W-40 along with a good additive.
Joe Gibbs moly is the only one that starts to work at room temp. All others need to reach operating temp before they get into the metal. Hence if you use a high detergent oil it makes it hard for the moly to sink in before it reaches operating temp.

And no I'm not a dealer for any oil company.

firefrost gold

klotz has a new oil out have not seen it yet but used their stuff in two strokes for years I have gibbs in mine so far so good

Nilsson

Vr1 is available in 10w 30 but you will have to order it. Don't know why the vanilla auto parts stores carry only 20w 50.


I order by the case from O'reilys.

XMWZ001

Ended up with Joe Gibbs 15-50, everything seems peachy so far. I will update later, thank you again for all opinions.

Olds64

I put Rotella T in my Olds.