Have not researched previous threads so I am soliciting advice on best procedure for installing a performer rpm intake. Sealant type, end rails or not, etc...would love some feedback.

Thanks

 

Im doing the same right now.. Dont get the turkey pan gasket!!!! Get the Mr Gasket intake manifold gasket set it seems to fit the best. I just happen to have mine right next to me and its part # 405G Its the best one that I have found.

 

Thanks - I have the Mr G Super Intake Gasket PN 4694G. Do you sealant on the end rails or the rubber ends. I have seen a divided camp on this.

 

I used the 405G on my first attempt with the rubber end seals. The rubber end seals made the intake sit up to high and I could not get the bolts started (they started crossthreading). BTW I had .015 taken off the cylinder head.

So, I had to spend a couple hours cleaning off all the rtv and gasgacinch to make the surface clean again.

The second attempt I used the ultra seal model and used RTV on the ends instead of seals. Only time will tell if it will leak (I still have to install the motor) but at least the intake fit. Oh and the intake is a Edelbrock Performer.

d1

 

I put a Performer RPM on a few months ago, I just used the stock steel intake gaskets and a small bead of black RTV around each port and again a small bead of RTV in place of the end gaskets. It worked perfect and has been for months now.
I don't get why people here always talk bad about the stock gaskets. I've always used them and never had a problem. I've been doing this since the mid 70's, if you do it right they work.

 

Can we have some details on the right way, because I did'nt do it right and now I've got a leak.

 

This is how I was taught at Lincohn Tech back in the 70's, remove old intake, please no prying with a screwdriver on the mating surfaces, put paper towels down the intake ports, put shop rags in the valley, use a good gasket scraper and go over all the mounting surfaces, please no gouging, then go over the mounting surfaces with a good prep solve or lacquer thinner, then go over the mounting surfaces with a fine emery cloth until everything is smooth, then clean again with a good prep solve or lacquer thinner, then use a shop vac and clean the intake ports and valley, now it's clean, next use a tube of BLACK RTV (in the 70's it was #2 FormAGasket but silicone works better) and put a 1/8 bead of silicone around all the ports both water and intake, then install the tray, make certain you have test fitted the tray once before siliconing so you know how it goes in, put another 1/8 bead of silicone around all the ports and if you are not using end gasket put down a 1/4-3/8 bead of silicone on the ends of the block with a little extra in the corners, now it's time for the manifold this needs to be installed in one smooth motion the first time, I usually watch one bolt hole as I'm lowering it on so I don't have to move it back and forth to try and find the holes once it's down, if you have to move it much after you put it on you might as well pull it back off to fix the smeared silicone, once the manifold is down and lined up it's time for tightening, I tighten in 3 steps, 1 start all the bolts first then tighten them down to just contacting the manifold, 2 start tightening from the middle of the manifold out to the ends and alternate from left to right as you go to pull everything down even you are used snugging the manifold down, 3 tighten the manifold down using the same center to end and alternating from side to side pattern, if you can use a torque wrench do it if not just just a standard box end wrench intakes only toque to 35 FT LBS.
Last thing is I let it sit for at least a couple of hours before trying to refill the coolant so the silicone has time to set up.
This is how I have always done it and it works and I use the same system for almost all gasket replacing.
Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for all the feedback. Here's what I did. Since I had the ultra seal gaskets already I used them. The instructions say it is not necessary to use sealant with these gaskets, but I did anyway. I put a very thin coat of ultra gray around all ports just to have something for the gaskets to stick to. I let the gaskets dry about an hour with the bolts in the holes to hold the gaskets in case they tried to slip downward. I did use the rubber end rails as I figured there was not enough evidence not to. I did put some ultra gray in all four corners and hopefully it is enough since it appears these areas are more prone to leaks. I then put a thin coat on the intake itself and let it sit a few minutes and then lowered the intake on by myself. I was able to line it up perfect the first time. I used new 12 point intake manifold bolts from olds performance products as they seem to be the best fitting bolts for a performer rpm intake - there are a few tight angles where the socket will not fit correctly with larger head bolts. Torqued everything done to 35 ft lbs in an alternating pattern and started with 20 ft lbs. Will finish it up these weekend and let you all know if it leaks. Thanks

 

I have the same ultraseal gaskets as a backup, I was curious to see if anyone has used them without sealant, they don't have silicone beads. I have the regular 405G gaskets at present. Been good for three years so far.