Well, it's time to start thinking about doing the drive train on the old Cutlass. Currently has a high compression 330/4v, ST 300 switch pitch - open 12 bolt with possibly 323 gear ratio. Two years ago when I got it, I did an edelbrock 4 barrel carb, complete valve job, water pump, aluminum xflow radiator, tune-up and the addition of an adjustable vacuum advance can. The transmission was serviced with fluid and a filter change.
The car has 126k original miles on it and no-one has been into the lower end of the motor. Needless to say it has some blowby and the timing chain probably needs to be replaced.
The question is to rebuild the current motor or...? I'd like to have some additional performance (maybe 375-400 hp), lopey cam, headers, you know basically an old school street machine!

Any help in pointing me in a direction is deeply appreciated!! Would like to know from those who have been there and done that, and a possible budget. Perhaps a parts list???

 

It all depends on if you are concerned about originality or not. If you are not worried about not having a 330 in there perhaps a 403 would be suitable. Its the same size externally and gives a good increase in displacement. The 330 or 350 can be warmed over nicely as well for an increase in HP. The 350 would prob. be easiest to get pistons for if you needed em.

 

Any Olds motor is an easy swap. 375-400 HP from a nearly stock 455 is easy. Probably closer to 320-330 HP from a 330 motor. Also, be aware that if you rear axle is original, it's not a "12 bolt" in the Chevy sense, it's a Type O. There are only ten bolts holding the ring gear.

 

As most of my experience playing with cars was around OMG Fords, Chev's, and Mopars, I'm not really familiar with the performance parts available for Oldsmobile. My first car back in 76 was a car just like this one, however I did not get a chance back then to do it!

I really don't believe this car will ever be very collectable, its just a very nice old car. So originality is not an issue!

As I mentioned earlier I had already made an investment in rebuilding the top end. So I'd rather see if there are any options in playing with the 330. From my understanding they had really good lower end stock, with a very strong block. The real question is there anyone who built up a 330. All spec's on this motor say it was a 320 hp motor stock @ 10.25 comp. I'm assumming a cam, headers and an aluminum intake, would add maybe 14%, which would put it around 375ish.

 

In my opinion the 67 Cutlass is a pretty desireable car. The easiest way to get more punch, HP, Torque is to increase your cubic inches.

 

I'd get an early 350 and just build it, then keep your original 330 in the corner of your garage somewhere. Lots of stuff you can do to get 375+ pretty easily.

Jmo.

 

Adding a couple gears will help consideraby, too!
Consider a 2004r overdrive swap - it'll be a different car with a 'first gear'!
Not to mention the overdrive benefits!!

 

I will have to admit my 330 was still a turd but it was a much more fun turd going from a Jetaway with 2.73 to a 5-speed and 3.73

 

Yes the Cutlass as you said Oldsmaniac is very desirable, just won't bring a ton of money when I go to sell it!

Like I said I already rebuilt the upper end, so I would like to possibly hear from anyone who has hotrodded a 330 before I start investigating a big block.

And yes I agree with you Richard a 5 speed would be much more fun!!!

 

I have done a lot of looking for 330 parts and there seems to be very few choices for off the shelf pistons for these engines. You can at least use the cam for a 350 assuming you really do have a 67 engine in your car, you have to have 1 special ground for the older 330's.
I have the same car as you only older and I'm going to built a 350 just so I can have more choices for parts. I'd also recommend using a 4 speed auto and a little deeper gear, these 2 things will make a large difference in felt performance.
I can't wait to get my Road King sold so I can get started on my car.

 

It is a cool car that's desirable to a smaller market of buyers.
But is it a desirable car which makes it very valuable in monetary terms ?? No.
This can be a good thing for you because you have free reign to modify without worry of losing value.

I think before you start doing the paper HP #'s you need to do REAL hp #'s with a dyno to gauge where you're at first. I've seen a few people sit on this forum and complain that the Edelbrock advertised power combo's don't get you anywhere NEAR what they've advertised you'll get from them. So don't do paper HP #'s and start dumping $$$$ blindly. Alot of guys do seat of the pants power figures and that's the furthest thing from reality. One huge problem with these older engines is head flow is pretty bad.......they need serious work.

Do a dyno and determine what it's going to cost from there. Whatever is advertised, probably drop 10% off that paper figure.
I have Desktop dyno 2003 with all the Olds head profiles, cam profiles, aftermarket cam profiles, etc.
Even that's not accurate because all the flow #'s aren't not accurate for the Oldsmobile heads it has programmed into it.
After I punched in the REAL flow #'s .....which are damn near IMPOSSIBLE to find, it was a good bit of difference.

 

If your on a budget and want to use the parts you've already got I'd consider the 350 idea. You can use the 330 heads and intake from your 330. You can also use the 330 forged steel crankshaft. The 350 will give you a few more cubes and more selection for pistons. There's a few guys here who've built 350's and been very happy with them. If you have time to read through the small block section and maybe send a PM to those who've done it. John

 

To keep it simple and keep the cost down change the transmission to a turbo 350 and upgrade to a later 350. My neighbor bored his 330 out to 350 and was pleased with the results, maybe that's and option for you.

 

My budget really is open and not an issue! I did not think my 330 heads would work on a 350. I knew the crank would.

 

The 330 heads WILL work on a 350. W31 size valves and porting are a very good idea for 400 hp. They are similar to the good early 350 heads. You may have push rod interference, just time with a Dremel.

 

If you want 400hp you can do it by stroking and boring a 350 to 380, (right Nick!). 4.125 bore and 3.5 stroke.
Anyway some of the parts are cheaper, stronger and/or more readily available. A little head work, instead of a full on port job (which you won't need to get 400hp with this combo) spend that money on a good roller cam, lots of advantages there, an RPM intake, headers and you're there.
You can also do your 330, bore it to 350SBC size and stroke the crank. You'll pickup 20c.i. and again parts are less expensive, but better.

You'll have about 6K+ in it if done right but it will be strong, torquey and probably last forever. And the lighter, stronger components will add to bearing life etc.

Jmo.

 

Right Mark

 

is this kind of HP possible from a 330 c. i. engine without doing a ton of stuff to it? will it be streeable and reliable when finished? will a 455 motor fit in there. i seen dudes get those kind of power #'s from a 455 with out alot of high-end machine work/custom stuff, who knows?

 

You have plenty of options as stated .
I like the idea of buying a 68', 69', or 70 350 for 2-300 bucks and have it built while you drive what you have.
Ofcourse the best person to talk to is the guy at the machine shop where the motor will be built. I hope he has experience with olds engines.

 

Thanks every1 for your input. I will post what I decide to do sometime in the near future.

I understand from recent threads that headers are basically unavailable for a small block in a 1967 Cutlass, is that correct??

 

headers on a small block in a 64-72 A-body are nearly impossible to find. there are a few companies trying to make some, all are going to be around $1000/set though.

for reference, i have a fresh 330 with an edelbrock power package, light cam profile, 650cfm performer carb, stock crank & pistons, original heads w/ valve work, HEI ignition, holley hi-flow fuel pump, TH350 w/ stage 1 shift kit. i am very happy with the power and performance she's putting out. it will boil posi (3.08 gears, soon to be 3.36) and chirp a hard 2nd. plus, i just realized that my throttle linkage isn't even opening up the carb all the way when the pedal is at WOT!!! i will be addressing that issue, and i have to believe i'll get a little more punch out of it when i floor it and the carb is actually "wide open". i hear that the edelbrock heads really wake these motors up as well, so that is on my list of upgrades in the near future. i will admit, down the line (way, way, way down the line) i would like to build a 455 and swap out my 330, for obvious reasons:-)