Ram ROD 350 specs?
#1
Ram ROD 350 specs?
I just heard of this engine offered in 68 thru 70 and wondering what it consisted of. Does anyone have specs? Whats so special about it? I understand it made 330hp stock. Whats the comp ratio? Any info or a link to resources where I may find the info would be helpful.
thank you.
thank you.
#2
I copied this from an answer to your same question made over at R.O.P. I did not verify all the data as I am at work right now but I think it is accurate. At least it can get you started on your research.
1968 Ramrod Engine Specs:
It had a 325 HP 350 CI engine with Ram Air (under the bumper scoops feeding the 350 ci engine).
Details:
10.5 comp. ratio (flat top pistons).
#5 heads fitted with 2" intake valves and 1.625" exhausts.
Camshaft was 308 degree duration and .474" lift.
Matching heavy duty valve springs.
Special recalibrated Q-Jet carb.
Larger harmonic balancer.
Standard cast iron intake.
Engines were "select-fit" assembled. Cylinder bores are honed to the "D" spec. and use "A" pistons resulting in a larger skirt clearance of .003" - .0035".
A 6 blade fan with a fan clutch was used.
All were Force-Air inducted.
No special W-31 coded distributor. Used that years standard 350 4bbl distributor.
Exhaust manifolds were the same as the standard 350. But BOTH exhaust pipes and mufflers were 2 1/4" inlets (2" outlet).
Hope this helps out some..
1968 Ramrod Engine Specs:
It had a 325 HP 350 CI engine with Ram Air (under the bumper scoops feeding the 350 ci engine).
Details:
10.5 comp. ratio (flat top pistons).
#5 heads fitted with 2" intake valves and 1.625" exhausts.
Camshaft was 308 degree duration and .474" lift.
Matching heavy duty valve springs.
Special recalibrated Q-Jet carb.
Larger harmonic balancer.
Standard cast iron intake.
Engines were "select-fit" assembled. Cylinder bores are honed to the "D" spec. and use "A" pistons resulting in a larger skirt clearance of .003" - .0035".
A 6 blade fan with a fan clutch was used.
All were Force-Air inducted.
No special W-31 coded distributor. Used that years standard 350 4bbl distributor.
Exhaust manifolds were the same as the standard 350. But BOTH exhaust pipes and mufflers were 2 1/4" inlets (2" outlet).
Hope this helps out some..
#3
That's all correct. The only thing I'd add (since the original question covered 68-70) is that this was also the W-31 option in 1969 and 1970. On the 1970 cars an aluminum intake was used in place of the original cast iron (though the passageways were the same) and no. 6 heads were used instead of no. 5. Everything else still applies.
Also, the automatic W-31s used a unique beefed up TH350. This trans is quite rare.
Also, the automatic W-31s used a unique beefed up TH350. This trans is quite rare.
#4
Thank you so much for the info. I have a 71 cutlass "S" and want to stay with the original 350 but pump it up a bit. I want to do a kinda era correct engine upgrade with more power but stay away from edlebrock manifold and heads. Not that I'm gonna try and go original, cause this thing aint worth crap original (350, 2bbl, low comp ratio- 8:1, 170hp, auto), I just like vintage stuff and after hearing about this ram-rod I figured a good change a pace. No one realy does built original 350's. People usually toss it in favor of a 455. Thanks again....
#6
Realoldspower.com
It seems to me that there is close to a 50/50 split on preferences between BBO and SBO. I like my torque but can't turn over 5 grand in my big block, others can easily turn 5,500 in their 350s but the torque is just not the same. Additionaly I prefer the B body cars and torque helps pull them better since they weigh more. I have a small booklet at home that gives all the engine specs for the Olds engines, I think it is titled "Building a W machine" or something like that. Anyway, you could build your plain vanilla 350 following those specs and have an engine that equals, if not exceeds the power output of those original engines. People do it all the time. R.O.P is full of racers and egnine builders, in fact they have a forum that lists builds whichs usually includes all the specifics and the performance of the engine in a given vehicle. You should check it out.
this is it:
http://72.22.90.30/phpBB2/viewforum....259499450a7b2b
It seems to me that there is close to a 50/50 split on preferences between BBO and SBO. I like my torque but can't turn over 5 grand in my big block, others can easily turn 5,500 in their 350s but the torque is just not the same. Additionaly I prefer the B body cars and torque helps pull them better since they weigh more. I have a small booklet at home that gives all the engine specs for the Olds engines, I think it is titled "Building a W machine" or something like that. Anyway, you could build your plain vanilla 350 following those specs and have an engine that equals, if not exceeds the power output of those original engines. People do it all the time. R.O.P is full of racers and egnine builders, in fact they have a forum that lists builds whichs usually includes all the specifics and the performance of the engine in a given vehicle. You should check it out.
this is it:
http://72.22.90.30/phpBB2/viewforum....259499450a7b2b
#9
Originally Posted by 71HolidayCutlass
........ have you heard of anyone sticking a couple turbos on the olds 350?
Norm
#10
Thanks 88 Coupe. Questions though:
From the specs it looks like a full-on strip monster.
How is your idle? Vacuum signal?
I'm looking to do a twin turbo wit a Qjet 4bbl.
What was your timing at say 10-12psi?
In regards to your name, are you running it in a 1988 olds coupe?
Or a Delta 88 coupe?
If it is a 1988 olds, is it a true Olds rocket 350? and not a chevy 350.
I'm new to the Olds game and I don't know or have much faith in a 2-bolt main- especialy putting 26psi to it....
Just some concerns. Thank you again and more information would be greatly appreciated. I figure If I can't do something nastalgic I'll do something different. Like you said, I'd love to see the reaction of people who just got smoked when they see a small block... an Olds small block at that.
From the specs it looks like a full-on strip monster.
How is your idle? Vacuum signal?
I'm looking to do a twin turbo wit a Qjet 4bbl.
What was your timing at say 10-12psi?
In regards to your name, are you running it in a 1988 olds coupe?
Or a Delta 88 coupe?
If it is a 1988 olds, is it a true Olds rocket 350? and not a chevy 350.
I'm new to the Olds game and I don't know or have much faith in a 2-bolt main- especialy putting 26psi to it....
Just some concerns. Thank you again and more information would be greatly appreciated. I figure If I can't do something nastalgic I'll do something different. Like you said, I'd love to see the reaction of people who just got smoked when they see a small block... an Olds small block at that.
#12
Whats in a beefed up TH350?
To joe padavano:
You mentioned that the W31 option had a beefed up Transmission.
What was special about it?
Is there a kit?
Does it consist of a different friction material/clutch packs/gearing change?
Do you have specs? rebuild specs?
Thanx...
You mentioned that the W31 option had a beefed up Transmission.
What was special about it?
Is there a kit?
Does it consist of a different friction material/clutch packs/gearing change?
Do you have specs? rebuild specs?
Thanx...
#13
Originally Posted by 71HolidayCutlass
From the specs it looks like a full-on strip monster ........
http://72.22.90.30/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=31281
........ In regards to your name ........
Norm
#14
The "small" block Olds' get overlooked by most Olds guys including myself. The sturdiest Oldsmobile engine is the 350 Diesel block but that is a "for hard-core drag racing" engine, not for your application. 1968 thru 1972 are the best 350 engines, all had cast nodular iron crankshafts, very good but a notch under the 330 Olds forged steel crank. Another option for you would be to slip a 403 short block in using your #7 heads. I like the 403's and have had great luck with the one I raced for 4 years with no problems. Nice torque for a "small" block. Later, Ken
#15
I've heard of those dsl 350's. i also understand that they are hard to come by and a pretty penny to boot. I have a 71 cutlass with a running, numbers matching rocket 350, 2 bbl that has never been opened up. While it aint worth doodoo restored to a numbers matching original ride, I'd like to use the original motor/block. I may replace the crank with a stouter unit, maybe a mild stroke but I'm keeping the block and all its 2 bolt main glory. My biggest concern about going twin snail blowers is if the bottom end can hold help, reliably, to a regular, streetable dose of 10-12psi. The more information i can get before I put a window in the side of the block with a piston is what I'm searching for.
#16
Originally Posted by 71HolidayCutlass
I've heard of those dsl 350's. i also understand that they are hard to come by and a pretty penny to boot ........
My DX block was free. 425 crank was $100.
Norm
#17
Twin Turbos??? Big time money so you had better go with a diesel block because you will need all the strenght you can get. To Norm; Does your DX block have the 0.921 lifters? If so is it solid/hydraulic/roller lifter'd? Thnks, Ken
#18
#19
Thank you so much for the info. I have a 71 cutlass "S" and want to stay with the original 350 but pump it up a bit. I want to do a kinda era correct engine upgrade with more power but stay away from edlebrock manifold and heads. Not that I'm gonna try and go original, cause this thing aint worth crap original (350, 2bbl, low comp ratio- 8:1, 170hp, auto), I just like vintage stuff and after hearing about this ram-rod I figured a good change a pace. No one realy does built original 350's. People usually toss it in favor of a 455. Thanks again....
#20
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