1985 Delta 88 with the 307 y motor.

The oil light comes on a little (flickeing) stopping at lights, stop signs etc. Goes out as soon as I hit the gas or pop into netueral or park.

Bumped the idel up a bit, but it still happens? Could this be the pump and how hard is it to swap out (dropping pan, etc)

Thanks

 

Might check the sending unit and such first. Do you have an oil pressure guage you can temporarily hook up to monitor the pressures for a bit of normal operation? Might just be a glitch.

 

I just put in a new Oil sending unit about a month ago. I don't have an oil pressure gauge, but I'm thinking about getting one

 

Dog,

How many miles on the motor? Buy a cheapie oil pressure gauge at the auto parts store...but you really know where this is going...

C.J.

 

Just a hair under 130,000

 

I'm getting an auto meter Oil Pres. gauge. electrical.

Do I just replace the oil sending unit with the one from the gauge, or do I have to "T" it?

 

To keep the light, 'T' it. You can get the pipes and adapters at Home Despot.

C.J.

 

OK thanks!! I kinda figured that

 

I'd definitly put a manual gauge on it 1st, "T" it if you want to retain the dummy light, but most real oil pressure problems begin with the cam bearings needing replaced.

 

I hope that's not hte problem, all that says to me is "new motor time"

 

Interesting now. Oil light was still comming on and stuff, so I was thinking about taking to the mech to replace the oil pump.

I knew the A.I.R. tube was rotted away, but it's completely severed now, so I got some of that exhaust tape and covered it up. Your suppoed to run or drive the car for 20 minutes and I did that. I ran the car for about an hour, and the only time the oil light flickered was when I was parking and had the wheel cut hard.

I'm adding more tape later. I'm not 100% happy with the coverage I have on it, but it seems to have more power now anyway

 

Are you sure the wire isn't worn thru and touching metal somewhere?

 

The car broke down today.

Got it running pretty good and today it seemed to be missing, it starting bucking and jolting and the "check Engine" light came on and then in stalled.

Restarted and stalled out 3 times, the 4th time it started up and ran fine, then it broke down within 2 miles. Starts and runs, but given any gas and it dies and bucks.

Oil light stays lit too, had to be towed home

 

may sound odd, but for me, the light flickered when the oil was over a qt low. NOT saying that you are dumb enough not to check that first. Could be an oversight. Like the time I could not get the car started after a tune up only to find the new rotor button still in the box on my way to the trash can....

Stuff happens.

John

 

Well the car broke down yesterday. The "Check Engine" light came on and the car was sputtering and bucking and just died.

It took 4 attemps to restart the car, the first 3 the car started and died out right away. I had to have the car towed to my mech.

He seems to think it's a fuel deliverly problem, either the filter or the pump itself. Since the oil light has been comming on the car has been running like crap. I don't know (if fuel deliverly is a problem) if that would cause the oil light to come on. Kinda makes sense to me, what about everybody else. If the motor isn't getting enough fuel...

 

Check both the MAP sensor and the ignition module. The check engine light comes on for any quirk or glitch in the system. use a paperclip to jump the A and B terminals in the ALDL, and get the codes (if you don't know how to do that let us know) See where that leads, but bear in mind that you could chase some "ghost codes"

John

 

On my 00 chevy, the fuel filter did this, we paid to do this a few times, but the stock was still on with 260,000kms on it, when we replaced it, it improved alot, also, we used to pay to get our air cleaner done, but when i took it out, it was so caked, you could barley see the folds in the paper. ( I am not implying anything about your mech...just some stuff that happend to me) you could also need your fuel injection tooken apart and cleaned, also mabye a check of the computer system, every thing is controlled by it. I don't know anything for sure, just my 2 cents, cars arn't like they used to be like when the crank was everything,
Good luck finding your problem

 

You know it's funny you should say that, I spoke to my mech today and he said that he replaced the fuel filter. He said it wasn't bad, but that it wasn't good either.

I just had that bad boy replaced about a year ago (about 6,000 miles) The orginal was the orginal!

 

Hi did you find your problem yet? it is good to know i am not the only one, i don't feel so bad now...I found this site online they say they have "proffesional" mechanics to answer the questions http://www.2carpros.com/faq.htm

Hope you find your problem soon so you can get back on the road again

 

Not Yet. I'm going down tomorrow to put in the electric fan kit I bought right after Christmas. I was going to put it in the first weekend in Jan, is was 50* here, but my pop passed away. Then was buys with all of that stuff and then it got too damn cold, right before the car broke down.

I'm still thinking it needs new plugs, I have Bosch Platuum +2's in there right now

 

You'd be better off saving the money and putting in standard AC delco plugs back in that motor. The tiny electrode will foul out VERY easily especially on a motor with higher mileage.

John

 

I switched out the plugs and also put in an elertric fan and oil pressure unit for my oil gague, my mech let me use one of his bays to do this work, I then bought the car home the next day.

The bad news is that he told me the motor has a knock in it due to a bad bearing, he told me to go easy on it. I parked it in fornt of my house, came out the next day to do the elertrical work to the oil gauge, and the car wanted to stall. I wouldn't let it. I revved it, it got upto about 3500 RPM and then made a little bang and just stopped running.

3 attempts to restart, nothing, on the 4th attempt it started, but now it's making a loud squeaking noise that varies in speed as the motor does.

After my wedding in June, I'm dropping in that 350 Olds, just gotta find a rebuildable motor that I want.

The 307 is blown, upon more reseach I think Carfax is wrong, and the Delta now has 230,000 miles and not the 130,000 that they say

 

I have a 1972 350 block, and rods if you are looking to start cheap. I am in NC

John

 

How complete?