Just replaced the timing chain and gears on a otherwise good running 330. Was doing a much needed water pump replacement so did the timing set too. The chain had some stretch, the original nylon gear was worn alot, as was crank gear. 139,000 mile car. all original under the hood. Used new simple cloyes chain gear set. Simple install. Installed at TDC per plug hole indicator. Had to make a very small movement of cam to get gears to line up. I DID NOT remove or move the distributor at any time, it is stuck in the block and will not even turn 1 mm for timing adjustment. Now car wont start. Has fuel. Appears with the distributor cap off and engine at TDC (used a TDC spark plug hole tool) that the rotor is retarded. The rotor is pointing equally between the number 2 cylinder & number 1 cylinder cap contacts when engine is at true TDC. So by the time the rotor hits the number 1 contact, to fire the plug, the piston is already on the way down. Question: Did the chain stretch really cause this much out of timing condition? Can I adjust dwell enough to get this to fire up? The distributor is really stuck and I tried freeze off, PB blaster, brake cleaner, thinner, a propane torch, numerous wrenches and pry bars used carefully. Dist will not budge. Thanks for any advice.

 

The timing set could be less than accurate. You could try adjusting the dwell and see where the timing is at.

 

You could try adjusting the dwell or moving all of the plug wires one position opposite of distributor rotation. Keep soaking the distributor you'll get it loose. Warm it soak it walk away, repeat, repeat and repeat. Capillary action will wick in the solvent as it cools.

Quick check for valve timing, with #1 TDC compression the rockers should not move on #1 when the crank is moved in either direction. The rockers on #6 should teeter open and close as the balancer goes off TDC in both directions.

Good luck!!!

 

If your dwell is near 30 degrees, leave it alone. You have to be able to rotate the distributor to make timing changes.
Scribe a mark on the distributor base and engine. Try tweaking it a little each way and soaking with penetrating stuff.
When the distributor breaks loose, it could move a lot.

 

A slide hammer puller is more effective at removing a stuck distributor. It equally distributes the force limiting the chance of breaking the shaft.

 

Do you have spark? Have you checked that #1 is on the compression stroke?

 

It is absolutely imperative the distributor is free to move. It matters not why it's frozen, how long it's been frozen etc. you CANNOT time the engine w/o the ability to move the distributor. Removing the distributor should be your NUMBER ONE priority.
A 50:50 mixture of ATF:Acetone is a better penetrating fluid. The issue isn't so much the type of penetrating fluid (Kroil is very good = expensive; ATF:Actone is excellent = less expensive) it's the Fe (Iron) oxides of rust which a penetrating oil is not suited to dissolving. Use of a sliding hammer puller is far more effective. You have to free up the distributor. After you do, clean the orifice well and add a liberal amount of anti-seize.

 

Between stretch in the old chain and manufacturing tolerance stackup, you can guarantee that the distributor timing will need to be reset. Also be aware that the spark fires BEFORE the rotor aligns with the contact in the cap. Don't lose an sleep over this, just set the timing to spec and be done.

 

As been said above, you need to get the distributor freed up. Changing the dwell will give you different problems.

 

The timing change when turning the distributor is a result of changing when the point closes, not the rotor position in the cap. Of course they move together so it is a bit misleading. That being said you should look at when the point is closing and guess your timing off that.

 

That is of course true, but the relationship between the rotor and the cap contacts at the time of spark initiation is called phasing and naturally there's a whole line of discussion about that variable.

https://documents.holley.com/techlib...or_phasing.pdf
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2017/...g-relates-efi/
https://www.streetmusclemag.com/tech...onfigurations/

 

How might I attach a slide hammer to the distributor. Trying boiling water, then ATF and acetone. Decided not to use torch with all the acetone everywhere!

 

I am very familiar with rotor phasing.

 

There are several manners to attach a slide hammer puller to the distributor - evidently you haven't looked up any methods. Since pictures speak louder than words - I'll attempt to find one.

 

(1) https://teamtalk.mastercraft.com/for...er#post1427503

 

Step one would probably be taking the hood off. If you have any friends in the body shop business they will have all sorts of slide hammer attachments. There may be a hook that fits good. The easiest way would be wrapping a small chain tight around the base and giving it a few tugs. Some heat wouldn't hurt.

 

(2) Old school...sliding hammer puller to remove stuck distributor

 

It's very easy to bend or damage the aluminum distributor body (ask me how I know). I would strongly suggest a slide hammer that is pulling on the center shaft. Be careful to pull on the shaft itself, not the moving mechanical advance mechanism. You'll probably be better off removing the advance weights and springs to make it easier to grab the shaft itself.

 

Does the narrow/lower area of the distributor housing have a square area on which a shortened wrench could be placed? If yes, shorten the wrench enough to clear the obstacles and tap on it with a hammer.

Good luck!!!

 

Its important to crack it loose. You should try tapping the wrench or whatever in both directions CW and CCW. You have to break the distributor body loose, or its not coming out.
You may want to find a firearms owner and get yourself some Hoppe's # 9 Gun Bore Cleaner. It works amazingly well on dis-similar metals when there is Galvanic reactions. Blow the area clean and liberally apply with a small brush. Maybe Professor Joe P can help with "Galvanic" reactions in laymans terms.

https://www.hoppes.com/cleaners-and-...er/P00347.html

 

Most often it is not a galvanic reaction that is causing this. It's a petrified oring and surface varnish.