I was looking under the 98 and realized Ive never used jack stands before. It appeared that they could go under ends of the front stabilizer bar or maybe under the shocks. I love my 5160 lbs Olds but dont wanna get crushed by her.

 

most of the time i put them under the frame just behind the front tires. you have to be careful when putting them under the shocks because when you let it down it will want to move out wider on you. if the jack stands don't move then it will cause a side load on the jack stand. this can make the car a little tipsy while on the stands.

 

The Chassis Service Manual spells out the safe jacking points. DO NOT jack or put stands under the stabilizer bar. You will bend it. The frame is reinforced right behind the front tires and that is the preferred support point. Note that the frame is boxed there. DO NOT jack or put stands under the open channel part of the frame under the rockers. At the rear, the part of the frame right in front of the rear wheels, where the lower control arms attach, is similarly reinforced.

You can also jack and support under the front lower control arms and the rear axle tubes. Be careful that the front suspension can move as you jack the car, causing the stands to slide out.

 

Thanks you guys. So I should use the "factory-specified" areas where the scissor jacks go?

 

Several Oldsmobrothers have suggested removing the front tire to get the best access to my drivers side freeze plug. I think I can handle it.

After that I need to jack up the rear-end. I need to change my rear oil seal from the tranny...my Haynes manual makes it look pretty simple.

I was looking at some rear-end ID sites last night. I thought my 98 had the irregular shaped 7.5" corporate rear end, but I found pics that look the same with an 8.6" diffy. I know there are a few "irregular" sgaped diffys. The 8.5 seems to have triangles at the bottom, and from the pics the 7.5" and 8.6" have the "spider legs" deal on the bottom.

I cant imagine Olds using the 7.5" on a 5,160 lb car. What do u guys think?

 

I was just at the wreckers yesterday and there were 2 98's that were almost identical to yours.

1. If you can do the tranny seal yourself, go for it. I've found that Haynes is pretty decent until you start to actually do the work. That's when you find out if you have mechanical ability or need better pictures... Been my experience that lots of things that look pretty easy are a piece of cake until you actually start doing it. I'd be curious to know how it works out. My car's tranny (200-4R) crapped out big time at only 45k miles and had to be totally rebuilt. Got a lifetime warranty, so I never had to lift a finger on it.

2. Go to a wrecker and see if your entire rear end has been swapped out. Take a look at what's out there and compare it. Seems to me that the B Body cars didn't have the 7.5 corporate; that was on the A bodies. Could be wrong...oh, one other thing, my 98 also had the limited slip rear end, so check what goes back into yours. If it's limited slip, you need to put an additive into the gear oil.

3. Rear spring changeout is actually really easy, you just have to lift the rear of the car high enough to do it. Put in new rubber isolators if yours are looking worn. If you need to change shocks, that's the time to do it - while you're doing the springs. Easiest way to take off a set of shocks? DON'T try to undo the bolts and nuts. Bust em off by tightening. Use a snipe if you need extra leverage. Faster, and easier to install new ones.

4. 100% take Joe P's advice. That is one heavy car. Use the designated areas that are reinforced for lifting. Also make sure you have good stands rated for more than you need. Mine are 2 ton and work really well, and they've kept me safe.

 

Thank you sir. My 200-4R lasted about 130k miles and I had it rebuilt last year and had a shift kit installed. I know a lot of the Old School folk hate the 200-4R, but I love mine.

I do have the limited slip tag. I guess the easiest way would be for me to open it up and measure. I doubt its been swapped as I am the 3rd owner. The first was a lil old lady here in wisconsin, then the father in law, then me.

I have some 3 ton stands that look pretty good.

 

From the pics at http://www.jdrace.com/ I seem to have the 10 bolt 8.75" corporate.

 

Although the 10 bolt 8.5 incher looks similiar too with the irregular shape.

 

Actually I don't have any issues with the 200 4R. It was a great tranny. My only wish was that the car came with at least a 350 or a 403. The 307 that was in mine was easy to start and did great around the city. But it didn't really have any ooomph when I was trying to tow.
I changed my rear diff fluid at around your mileage. It's probably due if you haven't done it already. On mine, the car started to shudder going around corners. But it was fine after the diff fluid was changed out.

 

That was my only issue with my 98, the 307 just wasnt enough motor for 2.5 tons of Olds. I remember when I lived in GA there was a hill on the highway and with the gas pedal on the floor my poor 98 would go 45ish. People would honk and pass me cussing and it wasnt much fun.

Then I decided to find a larger motor and happened to come across a freshly rebuilt 350 and I no longer have the 45 mph issue. I do sometimes wish I had went with a 403 or 455.

I had my diff fluid and gasket changed before I drove from GA to WI. Im wanting to open it up now and see just what I have. I know I have the highway gears, I think 2.73 or so, but I want to know for sure.

I love Oldsmobiles.

 

Thanks for helping me avoid being squashed, Joe.

 

Easy way to find out the gear ratio. Put the rear of the car up on jacks. Get a buddy to help you. Put a reference (usually white grease pencil) mark on the drive shaft. Have him turn one of the wheels 10 times (not too fast). You watch the white mark and count how many times it goes around. That give you the gear ratio. If it goes around 27 and a bit, you've got 2:73s. If it went around 25 and a half, it would be 2:56. A really easy way to find out. Good luck.

 

That sounds good. Im pretty sure its 2:73 or 2:93. Id like to bump it up to about the 3:11 or so. With the Olds torque ive noticed its not as big of a deal vs the cheby 350.

 

3:08 is a really popular choice that gives performance and some bit of economy. If you go back to jdrace.com he can probably set you up with what you want. BTW he's on this forum under the name of monzaz (real name is Jim)

 

What year is that 98?
5160 lbs. doesn't sound right. I'll bet it's a lot lighter than that.
Any 77-85 full size car with a 307/2004r trans could very well have a 7.5" diff under it.
AND a 5 x 4and3/4 bolt pattern.

The metric years were pretty low buck for "high end" vehicles of the time.

Wagons and 77-79 deltas/98s are the only place I've found the 8.5's.
Even the caddy broughams got slighted and 7.5" rears stuffed under them.

Realisticly, you probably have a 2.73 or 3.08 ratio from the factory.
The th350/200c cars usually had 2.14 and 2.41 ratios.

My 85 Delta is 3740 with driver... and that was also with a big block, full 22 gallon tank, and an 8.5 rear.

The good news is I'd guess your car around 4000lbs

 

The tag on the side of the drivers side door says 5,160 pounds.

 

bet that is gross vehicle weight.

 

I don't think so. I believe the 5160 tag is right. I had an 83 and it was also right up there in the 5000+ weight category. My 1973 Custom Cruiser was waaay up there around 5700 or 5800 lbs.

Up till 1984 the 98's were big and heavy too. 85 was the year they were downsized (a lot) so when you say your car is 3740, remember it is a smaller and lighter car than the one that was being discussed. Your 85 has a big block? Not from the factory though.

 

Ive noticed that the 85 and up 98's were tiny. My owners manual says in 1982 there were 2 rear ends...the 7.5 and the 8.75. From all the pics ive seen I think I have the 8.75. Is there an easy way to tell without opening it up? I havent found the axle stamp yet on it, I need to clean it with some steel wool I guess and find it.

 

I will be happy to post a pic of said tag later today.

Made in May 1982... front weight 2570 lbs, rear weight 2590 lbs, max load is 6 passengers/1150 lbs.