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I wish I found it before hand, but I ran the engine with the valve covers off and oil flow was good and all push rods where rotating.
This is crazy, I had a broken tip on my hei brush (middle of distributer) I replaced it with a used one from a spare cap. I ordered a hi-po low resistance one and installed it and now its running great! I have an ebay 50,000 volt hei so mabye it needs the low resistance brush??? Dam thing right fired up and pulls hard, ridiculous!! FML!! The noise on number 8 is still there but Im less concerned and will run over to them Monday so they can listen. Time to purchase a good ignition I think !
Those HEI eBay coils are probably very lucky to put out much more than stock. The low ohm contact does help. I would loosen both rockers on #8 and retighten evenly to 25 ft/lbs.
This is the one I have, like I said once I put that low resistance brush in it the engine came alive so it may be 50k volt or maybe the brush from my spare cap was bad https://www.ebay.com/itm/OLDSMOBILE-...item2ec9862c70
I did re-torque all the rocker arms and intake while I was at it, thanks for all your help. I may not be out of the woods yet, but I feel much better!
I do need to give prop to to Baker machine shop they have been most professional and confident about the work they have done and have open minds about building engines. They have open lines of communication, not just my way or the highway or you ruined your engine and we never make mistakes. Very good shop to deal with in Tucson AZ !!
I bought a distributor like that, I thought my pick up was gone funny how plugging in the wires works. It could have been a bad contact, weird. I too have a slight tick, slight play on few, I changed a bunch bridges and rockers, mine were used, which did help. My heads were rebuilt and new larger intake valves were installed, I checked everything but installed height. I still had a tick but I may have an exhaust leak from my headers, an exhaust leak can sound like a tick as well. I found one loose on #7, just slightly changing to adjustable roller rockers. I had 1.72 to 1 true roller rockers, studs and pushrods on another set of heads. I haven't fired it yet but the adjustment should allow enough adjustment to eliminate the tick. You could have a lobe going south, get them to measure lift on that cylinder, if it is good, try an adjustable valve train.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; January 27th, 2018 at 05:55 AM.
The woods sealed me in and got very cold Dropped the filter again, worst metal sighting yet. I yanked it, cam and lifters appear fine?? Took it to the shop and they pulled the pan and didn't see too much debris in the pan? They had to close so will know more today, I'm think oil pump eating its self??
He happened to have a set of rebuild 7a heads collecting dust and asked me if I wanted them to help ease the burn, YES please, thank you very much sir. I am going to toss these on my 74 engine with the number 8 heads to get the car running with some added pep in the mean time.
Do a cam swap as well, you will gain very little without it, it probably needs a timing set done anyways. I have a Performer 204/214 cam with matched lifters, already broke in, I will give you for the cost of shipping. How was your oil pressure through all this?
Do a cam swap as well, you will gain very little without it, it probably needs a timing set done anyways. I have a Performer 204/214 cam with matched lifters, already broke in, I will give you for the cost of shipping. How was your oil pressure through all this?
oil pressure was dropping and fluctuating before I pulled it had 10-15 at idle hot. How many miles on that cam? Very nice of you to offer, I will take it! I was looking at that to go with the intake anyway, think it’s ok with stock heads?
I can't remember the miles, not a ton but the cam and lifters are in good shape. Run the cam I ran mid 15's with a stock 76 350 with the cam advanced. You will be right around 8.6 to 1 with Felpro head gaskets on your stock 350 with 7A heads. It sounds more like a rod bearing if the cam is good, oil pumps rarely give issues. A drop in oil pressure is a sure sign of a bearing issue. What intake do you currently have? The Performer is similar to a stock engine in the performance department, the RPM is a nice upgrade. PM me your address, I will get you a quote.
I can't remember the miles, not a ton but the cam and lifters are in good shape. Run the cam I ran mid 15's with a stock 76 350 with the cam advanced. You will be right around 8.6 to 1 with Felpro head gaskets on your stock 350 with 7A heads. It sounds more like a rod bearing if the cam is good, oil pumps rarely give issues. A drop in oil pressure is a sure sign of a bearing issue. What intake do you currently have? The Performer is similar to a stock engine in the performance department, the RPM is a nice upgrade. PM me your address, I will get you a quote.
The bearing are all bad, except the cam and the crank is groove they are not sure why yet, debris or detonation they think, they are going to fix it, I told them we can work something out so they don’t have to foot the whole thing. I need to drop off more parts, I shouldn’t have torn it down so they could do a better inspection.
These heads cc at 67-68 so I think you guys are right, I'm going to cc the other heads at there shop with my cc set-up to see what those are. I want to use the largest chamber heads on the engine with speed pro -5.8cc pistons.
The 62cc heads would go better with my cast piston engine, putting the compression at 8.5:1 from about 7:1 with the 80cc number 8 turds. The 67 cc heads will lower the new engine from 9.8;1 to 9.3 :1 making it a little forgiving with pump gas. I ordered a lunati voodoo 10420700LK which is a touch milder and has a 112 lsa vs. 110. should be a better match-up and I will see if they will degree it in and double check every thing twice please. I also picked up an edelbrock avs-2 carb and pertronix hei. So the new plan is to wait for the new engine to be buttoned up to go back in the car and put the lunati street master cam in the 8:5 engine later. It might need some new cam bearings anyway
Not sure how much life these have left?
Pretty sure its a stock cam here .24x1.6 = .384 lift
Yes, 9.3 to 1 is better, that cam is pretty small but should have decent power. I had the Performer 204/214 .448/.472, actually .482/.507 with 1.72 to 1 roller rocker arms on a 114 LSA cam in my 9.5 to 1 350, it was OK around town but was faster at the track. It needed 91 minimum and I still had pinging issues. Mark did a 214/214 .472/.472 on a 110 LSA custom for me. I roasted the tires like mad with my 2.78 gears and a 2300 stall converter. I can run it on 87 if I want, had some bucking on 87 with a 30 degree vacuum can pulling off manifold vacuum, switched to a 20 degree can fixed it. I say your Street Demon is better than the AVS 2 but maybe the booster change made a big difference. Leave the cam bearings unless you further in the motor, how was the oil pressure in that motor? You will actually be just under 9 to 1 with 62cc heads with a stock 14cc piston short block, the pistons sit the same .025" in the hole as your Speed Pro pistons. My heads were 62 to 64cc on a stock 76 short block with the now on back order Rocket Racing .028 head gaskets, that put me right at 9 to 1 compression. Get the Cloyes billet timing set, how the chain fits compared to Street Roller is worth it, your current Cloyes set can go on your back up motor. https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...13x9/overview/
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; February 5th, 2018 at 06:32 AM.
That engine is in great shape otherwise, oil pressure was great and compression test 135-145 on all holes with the #8 heads. The pistons are the huge -22 cc cast standard .30 overs
I like the street Demon carb, but it has some issues that bother me. Its cheaply made, not enough rod and jets available, getting at the primary and secondaries you need to pull the carb. The AVS-2 looks like a big improvment over the 1406 and I have been itching to try one, they were on sale for 320.00 at Summit last month. Street roller it is, Thanks!
When you pull the heads on the #8 head motor, check how far in the hole they sit in hole. If they are way down, you may have more like 8 to 1, **** poor for that cam. Hopefully Edelbrock did something right for once with those carbs. Remember their Performer is the Carter AFB, their AVS is the Carter AVS which replaced the AFB and Street Demon is basically the Carter Thermoquad, the AVS's replacement. If you have hot Summer's, get at least a 1" phonelic spacer, those AFB/AFBcarbs have had that issue since Chrysler used them as factory carbs.
Hmm, same dimension as regular AVS 650, primary 1 7/16 and secondary 1 3/4. Bet secondary venturi is same 1 5/8 from regular AVS 650, so that new annular should show same restriction as the old design to reach the 650cfm rating, yet most sources seem to state annular boosters are more restrictive.. Interesting. Another interesting thing, just in my opinion, is that they promoted their new annular booster design on their "spread-bore carb", having biggest difference between primary and secondary on their whole line of carbs ( only 800cfm version uses as big secondary as AVS 650, having both primary and secondary throttle bores of 1 3/4 ). With already so small primary, wouldnt it been wiser to promote the new design on either square-bore 750cfm or 800cfm carbs?
Sorry for off-topic, just wondering out loud. Of course, bet they know more than 99,99% of us about the choice they made, but it dont make it less interesting for me to think about, what they are trying to accomplish with this?
Last edited by Inline; February 6th, 2018 at 06:46 AM.
Hmm, same dimension as regular AVS 650, primary 1 7/16 and secondary 1 3/4. Bet secondary venturi is same 1 5/8 from regular AVS 650, so that new annular should show same restriction as the old design to reach the 650cfm rating, yet most sources seem to state annular boosters are more restrictive.. Interesting. Another interesting thing, just in my opinion, is that they promoted their new annular booster design on their "spread-bore carb", having biggest difference between primary and secondary on their whole line of carbs ( only 800cfm version uses as big secondary as AVS 650, having both primary and secondary throttle bores of 1 3/4 ). With already so small primary, wouldnt it been wiser to promote the new design on either square-bore 750cfm or 800cfm carbs?
Sorry for off-topic, just wondering out loud. Of course, bet they know more than 99,99% of us about the choice they made, but it dont make it less interesting for me to think about, what they are trying to accomplish with this?
Drive ability, they already have the easiest carb to tune.
Sure, but having same primary bore on their 500cfm and 600cfm versions, id quess 650 did already well at fuel atomization-side. Thats why i was wondering about it.
I got the re-rebuilt rebuild back up and running, huge improvement! I have about 75 miles on it. They dialed in the cam this time, he said the cam was way over advanced due to the cloyes timing set 9-1113. They re-ringed and honed as well. I didn't ask too many questions they are standing behind the work and I just want it to work at this point.
I have that timing set, mine degreed bang on, this is why a cam needs degreeing. I see Cloyes no longer makes that set for Olds, must have been old stock. If you look at how much better the chain fits on the 9 way Billet roller set, it is worth the few extra dollars anyways. The chain doesn't fit tightly on that set and gets looser after just a few miles, mine sure did. How are you liking the new Edelbrock carb? Your bottom end issues happen more often in the unforgiving, big main and heavy parts 455. At least they stood behind their work and you got bonus heads in the bargain. I take it the new cam works well with your combo. How much timing and what octane?
New cam is great and the carb is very smooth, very responsive, fires right up.
I still am running 93 octane just to be safe and I have the timing locked in at 12 degrees base and about 32 at 3000 not running any vacuum advance until things settle in then I will start playing around with things. My bet is the old combo would have been ok if it had been degreed as well. The cams are fairly close in specs. All of this cost a 500.00 and I have 2 sets of prepped and ready high compression heads so not too bad of a deal really just a pain in the butttocks!
Good. Try two more degrees base, I am sure it will like it. Get an adjustable vacuum advance canister, at least you can fine tune it. Did they put the 67cc heads on this motor?
I have adjustable vacuum can and limit plate, I just want to get everything broken in before I start messing it. It has the 67 cc heads so should be about 9.3 to 1 which I like better. I can heard a little noise from the timing chain area so I will check slop at the distributor. Thanks
Mine looks loose but I only had about 1 degree of movement before the rotor moved. An extra 2 to 4 degrees base should be no issue and 10 to 15 degrees of vacuum advance. The extra base timing will smooth out the idle and make it more responsive.
Just swap the 3th filter in 550 miles, I'm being super careful! Small flakes but nothing to worry about. Oil pressure is 25-30 at 800 rpm and holding so I think everything survived The first filter after 75 miles had me a little worried.
January 26th, 2018, 05:11 PM
I'm freaking happy!! Sometimes the smallest things will send you on a dam coaster ride!
Dropped the filter again, worst metal sighting yet. I yanked it, cam and lifters appear fine?? Took it to the shop and they pulled the pan and didn't see too much debris in the pan? They had to close so will know more today, I'm think oil pump eating its self?? 
The first filter after 75 miles had me a little worried.
