Oldsphilly

I have a 1970s old motor rebuilt buy machine shop with number# 8 heads was a little concerned of compression machine shop did Wortk to the heads and block everything knew but not sure the parts that they put in I have a picture of the receipt let me know14983361982571578593102.jpg

VI Cutty

Although I'm no expert on good or bad engine builds, I'm going to suggest that the experts won't be able to tell you anything more than I can. There just isn't enough information given here, and too many variables.

For example..."Forged Pistons"...ok, that's all well and fine but what make? Specs? There are garbage pistons and good pistons but without knowing exactly what they are it's still a complete crap shoot.

The other problem is that you can use the best possible parts but the assembly is only as good as the machine shop and assembler. None of that information is available for reference...

I don't think you're going to get much valuable feedback with the current information.

BangScreech4-4-2

X 2. And that's if you can decipher the builder's chicken scratch.

oldcutlass

The pistons are L2320F flat tops. No cam pn mentioned. Some descriptions of normal rebuild stuff.

olds 307 and 403

The right pistons were used for decent compression. As long as they opened the exhaust bowls, you will gain squat other than needing 93 premium using the number 7 heads. You should have 9 to 1 compression or close to it, perfect for a mild cam. I would bet it is the 204/214 cam.

joe_padavano

The parts used or the dollars charged don't tell you anything about the skill of the person who did the work or the care that was used during assembly. Also, we've seen time and again where a Chevy-centric machine shop incorrectly assembled an Olds engine. There's no way to know from that receipt.

cutlassefi

Yeah it's great. It'll make 500hp.
I believe at least one other person on here has asked you politely to give as much info as possible before asking for an opinion. Apparently that has fallen on deaf ears. Too bad too cuz there are lots of people on here that are glad to help at the drop of a hat.
Oh well, best of luck in your project anyway.

olds 307 and 403

There have been many fresh rebuilt Olds heads have the center exhaust guides set too tight and valves stick in the guides. A stuck valve at 5000 rpm will ruin your day. I bought measuring tools to check the guides on my good deal fresh #6 heads, not easy to get accurate measurements either. Mine passed, if too tight, very bad.

Gary M

What's the name of the shop? Someone on here may have used them or know something about their reputation. If your concerned, buy an oil filter opener from SummitRacing.com and cut open the oil filter every oil change and look for signs of bearing wear, gold flecks and other things. Good luck with it and enjoy your car. Post some pictures of it when you can.

MDchanic

I read:

Disassemble
Cook in Plugs [???]
Bore & Hone [How much?]
Rods Recondition
Press off Con[rods]
Set clearance [rings? something else?]
Polish crank
H[ea]ds - valve job
-- Cut [what? how much?]
-- Guides
Align hone
Balance
Cut Intake Surface of H[ea]d
Cut Exhaust Surface of H[ea]d ***
$1,940 Labor

L2320F Forged Piston
Moly Rings
Plz 3/2 1/2 [???]
C- Lifters
Oil pu[m]p
double chan+ge [???]
Gaskets
N Normal dd Gasket [???]
Rubber Rear Seal
Oral [?????]
Int valve
Exh valves
Belmer [???]
Springs
Valve Seals
HD Locks

The guy could be a good machinist, but it's a sloppy list, and I'd be worried about his ability to do a good job.

And I agree with Mark's comment above - you still haven't given us enough meaningful information.

[Note: Initially, I thought both images were of the same sheet of paper, and based my first comment on that]


- Eric

ps: Philly, do you even know what an adverb is?

Gary M

Are you concerned about compression in each cylinder or compression ratio? Does it run good or does it ping (spark knock)?

70sgeek

I think "Belmer" is actually "balancer" maybe?


The L2320F pistons are Sealed Power brand - those are what I have in my 350 ( mine .030)


shop printout/handwritten details don't really say anything about their actual work quality - a great shop might still chicken scratch old-school receipts and a not so great shop might provide geek-level print outs.


If you don't have any idea how Olds-friendly your shop was with respect to parts matching and assembly, only real way to tell now will be when you get motor running.

Oldsphilly

I can't understand handwriting that good neithe on receipt I did start it up today sounds good has power no 500hp lol but good for the street it does have a mild cam in it it's not on the receipt I don't know why but you can hear it lol

oldcutlass

So whats the question here?

MDchanic

I believe it was,
and, unfortunately, we can't tell if it was built good based on the information provided, as Mark has pointed out.

- Eric

Gary M

My car that I bought with 8000 miles on the rebuild came with a stack of receipts that I could easily read, looked like everything was done during rebuild. It leaked at the rear seal of the motor though which led me to a shop that informed me the motor would need rebuilt because it was not done right. You just have to (in your case) keep an eye on it, look for signs along the way over time that there may be a problem. Don't loose sleep over it (because it may be fine). Cut open the oil filter every oil change ( not with a saw because it will cause metal shavings and you can't accurately tell if the motor is ok). Use the oil filter cutter and look for chunks of metal or gold flecks inside the filter. If no flecks or chunks and the motor does not smoke, knock like a rods going bad, run real rough or use a lot of oil it probably is healthy.
( keep in mind spark knock is a different issue but should be addressed soon as possible too).
If you got questions along the way, ask here, good luck to you.

cutlassefi

If you can't find the time to insert a period or two here and there then I'm not going to take the time to decipher this mess, sorry.

Gary M

Oldsphilly,
what year/ model is your car and where are you from? I'm from St. Louis, Mo.
Lots of people on here that like to help but at the same time don't want to give out wrong information. They will ask for more information and it seems like you are a patient person who (like myself) is not as tech savvy as I would like myself to be. It takes a few minutes for me to type what I want to say on here. Ask what you want and add more information as you need to. Enjoy the Olds.

m371961

This brings about the questions of what you need to ask for from a shop if you are going to pay them to do your engine. I would ask going in for them to supply all info, even boxes of all materials used. In particular a cam card, among others. I also would want a list of all measurements before and after of bore and crank sizes, piston and bearing clearances, ring gaps etc. They have to take them to do a proper job and should be able to give them to you in a readable form. Always research using the CSM before you pay someone else, so you have some idea and can ask questions to find a qualified shop. This should actually be applied to any mechanical work you pay to have done. If the shop is legit they should welcome questions and be willing to sit with you and even revue the manual. Some may even request copies from your manual. If they do that, then you know they care about the results.