New 350 with FITech system...

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Old Oct 26, 2016 | 02:06 PM
  #1  
distributorguy's Avatar
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New 350 with FITech system...

Post deleted. I'm tired of dealing with people who think no one can do anything right unless you do it their way.

Last edited by distributorguy; Oct 28, 2016 at 12:15 PM. Reason: No time for condescension.
Old Oct 26, 2016 | 02:21 PM
  #2  
My442's Avatar
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You need a longer air cleaner stud.
Old Oct 26, 2016 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by My442
You need a longer air cleaner stud.
That's the hood retention system.

(yeah, this was the cleanest comeback I could think of...)
Old Oct 26, 2016 | 03:08 PM
  #4  
olds 307 and 403's Avatar
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Originally Posted by My442
You need a longer air cleaner stud.

What are your build details? I am seriously considering the Holley Sniper when I go back to the 350.
Old Oct 26, 2016 | 04:08 PM
  #5  
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Very nice ? What did you run for dist. I'm considering a fitech unit for pops pontiac (olds350powered).
Old Oct 26, 2016 | 05:44 PM
  #6  
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You don't have to cross your fingers, it'll run like a champ and you'll be pleased from the get-go!!
Old Oct 27, 2016 | 04:09 AM
  #7  
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Looks good!!! Good luck!!!
Old Oct 27, 2016 | 05:56 AM
  #8  
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Last edited by distributorguy; Oct 28, 2016 at 12:10 PM.
Old Oct 27, 2016 | 06:19 AM
  #9  
olds 307 and 403's Avatar
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That is a big difference in temp, I guess go off the higher one? Did you use a temp gun at various points around the motor?
Old Oct 27, 2016 | 06:30 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by distributorguy
One oddity I'm trying to wrap my head around...Two coolant ports at the front of the stock intake... The one on the driver's side gets up to temp a LOT faster than the one on the passenger side. In 5 minutes I was reading 175/140 from them. 5 minutes later, 195/170. They never did stabilize. Is this from the bypass hose at the water pump? Why such a big bypass???
The bypass isn't the issue. The problem is either blockage in the head or (more likely) the fact that the heater hose bypasses hot water past the intake crossover on the passenger side and dumps it directly into the water pump. You can try to temporarily block the heater hoses and see if the two temps get closer.
Old Oct 27, 2016 | 07:14 AM
  #11  
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And Joe, thanks again for the tip on the exhaust sealing compound. Finally no leaks!!!

Last edited by distributorguy; Oct 28, 2016 at 12:09 PM.
Old Oct 27, 2016 | 07:17 AM
  #12  
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I assume that's a normally closed heater control valve, in which case with the heater off, all coolant flows through the head.

That Acousti/Seal is magic stuff.
Old Oct 27, 2016 | 07:27 AM
  #13  
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Last edited by distributorguy; Oct 28, 2016 at 12:09 PM.
Old Oct 27, 2016 | 04:50 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by distributorguy
The build... .020" over with flat tops, 10.04:1 compression with #6 heads, mild flow bench work with focus on torque not hp. How so? Stock valves, but adjustable rockers. Full Comp package because one of their Extreme Energy cams had nearly identical numbers to what I designed. Which were? The difference is that they dialed it in weird, so I fixed that with a good Cloyes timing chain set. Could you explain for others please? Today I'll do a compression test to see where it lands. I expect it to be high. I was shooting for close to 200 psi cranking compression. Why would you want it so high with iron heads? Are you going to control spark with the FITech? I have 17" of vacuum at idle, right where I had hoped. I also think that the FITech's 14.3 AFR at idle may be a bit too lean for this motor as well, What are the cam specs? That will normally dictate what it will handle.

One oddity I'm trying to wrap my head around...Two coolant ports at the front of the stock intake... The one on the driver's side gets up to temp a LOT faster than the one on the passenger side. In 5 minutes I was reading 175/140 from them. 5 minutes later, 195/170. Could you have an old freeze plug stuck somewhere?
Thanks in advance.
Old Oct 28, 2016 | 07:53 AM
  #15  
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Last edited by distributorguy; Oct 28, 2016 at 12:09 PM.
Old Oct 28, 2016 | 09:44 AM
  #16  
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When we spoke a few weeks back I got the impression that you were pretty dead set on your ideas, and this last post proves it. However let me point out where you're wrong.

You retarded the cam timing from a 106icl to a 110icl. That will HURT low end power, not enhance it.
And for such a small cam with 10.0:1 your cranking compression should be more than that. But that's a by-product of retarding the cam. As an example I have 9.7:1 static with a cam that has 14* more intake duration and I have around 180.
The only real downside to locking a distributor is typically the indexing of the rotor to the cap tower. However with most aftermarket distributors that's not normally a problem. And the benefits of doing spark electronically are too good to pass up imo. But apparently you have other ideas about that as well.
And I absolutely don't remember telling you to bias the intake that much. Maybe you misunderstood but having the intake flow that much more biased to that side won't necessarily enhance tq. There are a lot of other factors to that. I would've used more cam installed at the 106icl, that would've given you better midrange with no or little loss in the low end, you have enough compression for that.
Plus your stock iron intake is somewhat of a bottleneck there anyway, even with the milling of the divider. So with that as well as the smallish cam, enhancing the heads on the intake side will have little effect without opening up or changing the intake.

Just sayin'.

Last edited by cutlassefi; Oct 28, 2016 at 10:20 AM.
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