Mark71

So I was installing headers on my 71 Cutlass Convertible and took off the "original"-type starter. I put the headers in place on the driver's side and then slipped the starter up underneath. This is where the trouble started.

I reattached the wire to the "S" post of the starter solenoid and just tightened the nut down snug against it. "Just snug", I thought. SNAP and the S post was suddenly in two pieces. It just snapped off in my hand. No problem, I went to Autozone and got a new solenoid in a hurry figuring I might still save the weekend's work.

Even though the stupid thing was chineseum, I was sure it would do what I needed - at least until I could get a better one.

Put the starter and original shim back in place (oh that was fun) and started to tightening the bolts. I used a torque wrench set to 40 ft.lbs. I tightened one side, then the other. Once again, SNAP and pieces of the starter snout fell out into my face. The side of the snout that broke was the "outside" (toward the driver's side when mounted). The torque wrench never clicked - it never made 40 ft.lbs.

So now I have two options:
A) Go order a new snout for my existing starter (along with a rebuild kit, because, hey, I might as well...).
B) Go order a new / rebuild starter with decent solenoid in standard size.
C) Go order a new mini-starter.

I am leaning towards C, which is also the most expensive because there's some promise that I can get it into place without removing and re-installing the headers to do so. A and B are attractive though, because I've never shimmed a starter and I figured the original shim would "just work".

Anybody agree or disagree with my assessment? Any ideas? How hard is it to shim a new starter correctly???

66ninetyeightls

I would personally just get a rebuilt unit and slap it in. Prob. the quickest easiest and overall cheapest way to go.

firefrost gold

I have a robbmc one I can let you try out if it works I will make you a deal
Let me know shane

Run to Rund

Starter mounting bolts are 3/8 x 16 thread, 4.5" long plus .1" tapered end. Some are grade 5 and some grade 8. Spec is 35 ft lb, not 40, and I would be careful about the 35 if you are using grade 5. Don't tighten one al the way and then the other, go one and then the other in steps. If you get an aftermarket style starter, you should check pinion engagement and gear root clearance. I shimmed my RobbMc but never shimmed stock starters.l

olds 307 and 403

Use a 3/8" rachet to tighten down the starter bolts. Do you have big arms by the way? A mini starter with headers is the way to go, trust me.

Mark71

Here are the carnage pics. I guess it just broke where the mounting block was thinnest.

I was reusing the existing hardware (probably original to the car). Should I be replacing it? If so, do I need specific starter bolts or just Grade 8 hardware that matches the length and diameter spec?

Also, there was a single washer on one of the bolts. These shouldn't have washers at all, right?

Yeah, I probably should've left well-enough alone, but hey, what difference could 5 ft. lbs. possibly make? I had read a lot of posts of people saying that at 35 the starter would "move around" under load and to go up to 40. Oh well, you live and learn.

Aren't those for engines making like 11:1 compression or more? I mean, I have a mostly stock rebuilt 350 with the old-fashioned 168 tooth flex plate. Would that work?

Do you mean the A-arms on the suspension? No, seriously, I am medium build and have real problems getting my hands in-between the headers and starter. Also holding the original starter above my face and trying to get it lined up was not easy.

If I go the route of a mini-starter, can I get it in and out with the headers in place? The rumors say yes, but...

rocketscientis

inferior partz

stellar

Don't use a washer. Use starter bolts not anything else. Tighten both snug then finish tightening both.

Greg Rogers

Maybe I'm missing something but I see no reason why the starter would break like that. Unless something was holding it crooked?? I would think that if the starter was flush against the block and you seriously over tightened it you would either break the bolt or strip the threads. What would make that break out unless it was crooked??? I would recheck everything carefully before you tighten the next one.

Fun71

Well seeing as how the original poster was doing this in 2011 I am hopeful that he has resolved the issue by now.

Not sure why this thread from 2011 was resurrected in Post #7, but here we are now.

Yellowstatue

I think the snout was compromised during the rebuild.

Greg Rogers

DOH! I fell for the old thread thing again! I should remember to check the dates......

rocketscientis

Don't get me wrong I imagine they probably might make some very fine quality items in the forced labor camps of China despite the Fatal beatings however starters you buy at the parts store after you trade in a unit worth more than what you just bought are not on that list
The reason that they are called starters nowadays is because they are more likely to start a long walk then a high-compression engine don't give them your quality Delco Remy original equipment starter from your car have it rebuilt word to the wise & everyone else too...

this 69 H/O starter sold immediately but I have couple other tripple threes & 1-200 delco remy units available
or can rebuild yours need b
Seeing as how rebuilders unsanctimoniously swapped starers /alternaters ....just as did I....nobody had correct units & Im dedicatin fare share of time & others $ to rectify this

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