I have my motor out and sitting on a stand doing various different things to include installing a new double roller timing set. I can't seem to get the dang key out of the keyway to remove the crank gear. I can pull the snout end of the key up about 1/2" away from the crank but the other end tucked under the crank gear won't budge. First I was grabbing with needle nose pliers, then a pair of vice grips. No dice. I sat that and wiggled/worked it for a good 15 minutes and when I pushed it back in to see how much progress I had made and I was disappointed to learn it hadn't budged even a hair. The only things I can think of are trying to push the gear back a little, but there isn't more than a hair for it to move, so I'm not sure it would do anything. The other is throw a gear puller on it and try and pull the key and gear out together, but I don't know if I would just wind up breaking something Any tips?

 

Attack it with a proper sized gear puller.

 

You should be able to slide the crank gear off the crank with the key fully seated in the slot. The crank gear, timing chain and cam gear need to slide out together.

 

Yeah, you've got to slide the gear off.

Sometimes it just sides off like it's supposed to, but sometimes you need a puller, and if you're replacing it anyway, you may as well just split it with a cold chisel and take it off that way, as it will make your life much easier.

- Eric

 

there is nothing to break that you probably wont be replacing anyway(gear or key) however you get it off dont gouge the crank snout

 

Interesting thought

I have always pulled the cam out a bit, tapped the cam aft by means of its loosely installed bolt w/o the eccentric, holding the sprocket fwd, until the cam sprocket is off the cam. Then lower the sprocket and chain and remove those two, then go after the crank sprocket. Splitting it is not a bad idea. Attack it at the weakest point- the keyway, at the bottom of a gap between teeth.

 

I've got a 3 jaw puller so I'll give that a shot. One other thing I just thought about is we have ready access to dry ice at the grocery stores here. Maybe helpful to put a little on the key? I will try splitting the gear after the puller. Something about that scares me lol. Pogo--you mention replacing gears, but the key also? I don't have another one of those. Should I?

The cam gear came right off already along with the chain obviously. FSM says everything comes off in it's own step. Is there any advantage to taking everything off together?

 

once you get the key out you will know if it needs replacing sometimes the key gets chewed from previous rebuilds, just take a good look at it once its out

 

i noticed you are in okinawa, whats that like these days? what kind of car? you must get lots of looks

 

It's a '75 Cutlass. Not my favorite year to be sure, but my granfather bought it new, so it has a lot of sentimental value. I do get a lot of looks and thumbs up, especially from older Okinawan dudes. I daily drive it to work (when the engine is in it at least lol).

 

There's a link in my sig on the full version of the site, but I haven't updated the thread in a LONG time. It's had a lot of body and paint work done in the past few years.

 

You should not have to pull the key to remove the gear. You can remove and inspect the key once the gear is removed and replace if necessary.

 

The key stock is available at hardware stores or machine shop supply places. Just get the right size, comes in maybe one foot lengths, cut to size.

 

That is a fact i bought a 12 inch piece about two years ago.

 

Neeley, if you have any left over, cut a few links and offer 'em up.

 

I might just do that. Good ideal!

 

Got the gear/key pulled. Everything came off in good shape, and the new set is installed. Thanks guys!

BTW--isnthe any amount of clearance I need to measure between the crank gear and block, or just smack it with a rubber mallet till it stops moving farther on to the crank snout? Because that's what I did.

 

Ha ha, that's it. The bolt with the large washer will pull them up flush.
Check your CSM for the proper torque.

 

Ha ha, that's it. The bolt with the large washer will push them flush.
Check your CSM for the proper torque. What? Double quote, operator error.

 

Just a reminder don't forget to put the oil flinger on after the crank gear and before the timing cover. Otherwise you won't get correct oil flow and the front seal may leak.

Hope it all goes well.

Larry