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I'm looking into upgrading from my stock single factory '72 350 exhaust to duals. I'm on a budget so I would like to try to do the install myself.
I've been looking at the InLineTube setup for 600 USD. If I were to upgrade to tips with a cutout bumper this would add 70$ (I plan on replacing my bumper anyway).
What are your experiences? Did anyone do the installation themselves? Share videos if you have!
Check with Scott at Classic Exhaust - His stuff is well made, and requires no more than the usual amount of "massaging" to fit, and should cost less than that.
See if there is an old school muffler shop in your area. Many times they can bend up and install for a very reasonable price, plus you get welded joints that are less likely to leak than a bunch of clamps if you DIY.
Check with Scott at Classic Exhaust - His stuff is well made, and requires no more than the usual amount of "massaging" to fit, and should cost less than that.
He's got a price list posted right on his site.
- Eric
I was just in ohio for work! I wonder how much of a pain it is to get a 40 year old exhaust off the manifolds.
Just a tip, unless you do not mind constant droning noise inside the car, be careful which mufflers you choose. My brother recently replaced the Flowmasters that were on his Rallye when he bought it with Walker Quiet Flows due to the constant drone. It now sounds like original and has no annoying drone noise.
It also had Thornton 350 exhaust manifolds on it. They seem to be a good compromise between the standard manifolds and headers, eliminating the need of a crossover block-off and allows the use of equal size exhaust pipes. If not already having 2.5" pipes, would had used 2.25" pipes.
Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers, nice mellow sound at idle, throaty when you open it up, no resonance. I am one that does not like Flowmasters, to noisy for me.
I personally like the quiet mufflers on all but the W-cars or modified cars.
Stock, these cars were smooth, quiet, fairly prestigious machines.
It's your own choice, but everyone and his mother has an A-body that sounds like they forgot to install the mufflers when they put it together. If you run understated, quiet dual exhausts, you'll stand out from the crowd.
Is the exhaust the same for the 350 and 455? The classic exhaust shows for a 455. I have stock, I am assuming, duals with the off set glass packs and no tail pipes. Not too loud but noticeable. With tail pipes, it would be very mellow.
Both should fit, the manifold outlets are usually just a bit different in location than one another, side-to-side, so that a new exhaust will fit when lined up, but an old system that is all rusted together may just slightly not meet.
So, some of these kits have resonators, what do they do?
I would 'really' like to get as close to stock sounding as possible, that's why I started looking into inline tube in the first place.
That guy in ohio that you mentioned has very reasonable prices for what looks like a very similar setup.
Originally Posted by MDchanic
Both should fit, the manifold outlets are usually just a bit different in location than one another, side-to-side, so that a new exhaust will fit when lined up, but an old system that is all rusted together may just slightly not meet.
Here's mine. It came with flowmasters and I added the 442 tailpipes, trumpet tips and rear bumper. I welded the tips on the inside so there are no clamps or weld marks on the outside. I know its not original, but I love the look. Always easy to change it back if I wanted to.
I don't mind the flowmasters, they sound amazing and give that true musclecar sound. Even my 8 year old son likes them. Besides, I always try to help a kid in a Honda learn what a real car sounds like.
So, some of these kits have resonators, what do they do?
I would 'really' like to get as close to stock sounding as possible, that's why I started looking into inline tube in the first place.
That guy in ohio that you mentioned has very reasonable prices for what looks like a very similar setup.
I have never seen a resonator on an A-body from the factory. Usually just the full size cars had these to keep the noise level and resonating down.
You may want to keep in mind if you are looking for a factory noise level and sound when choosing mufflers - it is not so much the noise level out the tailpipe, but also the noise level inside the car that may be a concern.
More specifically, it is the droning/resonating sound inside the car that gets annoying real fast even after just a short drive, especially if you are attuned to driving a 442 or N-10 equipped Cutlass in the past with factory original mufflers.
You read or hear of more stories of owners replacing the mufflers with factory type units shortly after buying their cars due to the irritating droning/resonating sound inside the car even during a brief drive.
Of course, it is a personal choice as to the noise level or sound that is wanted outside and/or inside their car.
I have never seen a resonator on an A-body from the factory.
I just checked the '70 CSM - You are right that Olds A-bodies, at least in that year, did not have resonators.
However, from past experience I know that the 1970 Chevelle SS DID have resonators, in the same place as the B-bodies did, right under the rear rockers, so there should be room for them if you want them.
I did a Pypes full exhaust, and originally had Flowtech headers. Installed the whole thing in the garage, loosely put the clamps on, and drop it up to a shop to get welded. I didn't use the Pypes mufflers, I used Dynomax Turbos.
Flowmaster has an 'American thunder' kit, or something like that, and I have used those in the past. Bends are great, tailpipes fit, and only minor adjustments needed.
Torque Tech also makes a kit, and they too are known for great bends and fit. They have some of the best service I have yet to find. I was on the 1999 east coast power tour, a chunk was missing in the highway, and the lip of concrete grabbed the leading edge of the muffler and folded it under. They came out with a truck and replaced the muffler, tailpipe, clamps, etc, and I only paid for the parts, like $50. That's service.
Check with Scott at Classic Exhaust - His stuff is well made, and requires no more than the usual amount of "massaging" to fit, and should cost less than that.
He's got a price list posted right on his site.
- Eric
Hey Eric,
I heard back from Scott, he quoted me 540$ (USD) shipped to my door in Nova Scotia.
I'm wondering if I should be bringing my car with the kit to a professional to install or attempt it myself.. I'd best stock up on WD-40..
Thanks for the Classic Exhaust recommendation. Looks like just what I need for my stock survivor '72 Supreme, at half the cost of Inline Tube's system. Dual exhaust is the only upgrade I'm giving that car.
Terry
I'm wondering if I should be bringing my car with the kit to a professional to install or attempt it myself.. I'd best stock up on WD-40..
It comes in a number of segments, all of which are round, and so can rotate and "index" in any position, so you need to get them all in the right positions, and then get enough tension on the clamps that they stay there.
It's a bit finicky, but very possible, and you have to be okay with the fact that some will move over the first month or so, before you get it completely locked down.
If you've got a welder, a quick spot weld on each will prevent this.
It comes in a number of segments, all of which are round, and so can rotate and "index" in any position, so you need to get them all in the right positions, and then get enough tension on the clamps that they stay there.
It's a bit finicky, but very possible, and you have to be okay with the fact that some will move over the first month or so, before you get it completely locked down.
If you've got a welder, a quick spot weld on each will prevent this.
- Eric
I do! I bought a Lincoln power mug 180 when I welded on my cowl and did my driver quarter panel.
I guess what I was worried about was getting off the old single exhaust and crossover.. Or do those bolts just break off?
Have a looksie if the manifold studs are wearing thin. You don't really want to snap a manifold bolt off while trying to take the crossover pipe off. You can always drill them out and put new studs in then double nut em'. but.. PITA
Just plan on removing the manifolds and using a torch to heat up each lug so you can turn out the screws.
- Eric
For sure, and a stud puller will be your best friend (Tool) haha, or you may get some nice little poka-dot burns on your fingers & forearms trying to pull them with vice grips. . That's the worst part in doing exhaust.
Theoretically, the flange connection between the pipe and the exhaust manifold is retained by studs into the manifold, with nuts on them (someone may have substituted bolts...).
The studs will be rusted to the manifold like they are one piece of metal.
You need to use heat, and plenty of it, to get them out.
Propane or MAPP alone almost definitely won't do it, unless combined with oxygen.
You should look at the flanges bolted up to the exhaust manifolds. If the studs are still the proper Diameter (not rusted away to much) you should be able to gets the nuts off and drop the front pipes.
Take a couple pics and post them here if you can, one of us will be able to tell you what we think.
Eric is correct, it will take Oxygen and acetylene to heat up around the ears of the manifold to get the studs out if needed. Don't heat the stud.
Only heat the nut and stud to get the nuts off if the stud is still its full diameter.
I shall take pictures as soon as i get home from work!
I actually had the passenger door off the car yesterday cleaning up a bit of rust on the bottom door lip.
I'm getting back into working on my cutlass since i just bought my first house in Halifax and i actually have a garage! it's not huge but it's better than working on my car in a parking lot!
I also just installed a Pypes system. Their street mufflers are awful. They drone like crazy. You can get the front extension pipes to install to the factory manifolds, right from Pypes. My understanding is that their two other muffler choices will both run quieter at cruise than the drone you get from the Street mufflers. I will never put Flowmasters on ANYTHING. Dynomax, yes. Magnaflow, yes. Pypes, yes.
