1969cutlass4d

I just had a shop do a ton of work, started out with having them do a leak compression test, which resulted in taking my #5 heads to a shop to be completely redone, new valves, cleaned and all the good stuff. That lead to more that needed to be done, replace the manifold intake with a none EGR (which I really wanted), found out my distributor was not only the wrong kind for her, but was also fixed once before, so had them buy and install a new one. they got everything done after some head scratching on a few things, but needless to say, every test came out between 140 to 150 somewhere.

But here is what is bothering me, I have an Edelbrock 650cfm on her, and they "think" that the carb needs to be rebuilt. might be the problem, but when at idle, even when shes warmed up nicely, you still have to flutter the gas before taking off, other wise she dies. Could it just be the carb? I have had so many things go wrong with this car, so far into debt because of it, I need to get her fixed right. And I am not a carb person, so I will have to have someone else work on it for me. any thoughts?

oldcutlass

You need to start a project thread and so that we can track all your history in one place. Your issues are hard to follow with multiple threads. What distributor did they install? What dwell (if applicable)/timing settings did they use? Has the timing chain been replaced.

MDchanic

As Eric says, we need to know all of the electrical details:
Distributor type (HEI, points, points with electronic trigger), dwell angle, if applicable, mechanical and vacuum advance settings, vacuum advance connected to ported or manifold vacuum, timing at idle and at 3,000 or so RPM, way that distributor is connected to the ignition switch, type of coil, wires, spark plugs, and gap.

After that, we need to know the history of this carburetor, its past performance, most recent rebuild, model number, and current settings.

Also, we need to confirm that you have no vacuum leaks, including unplugged ports and failed components, such as transmission vacuum modulator and brake booster.

Also, what type of cam, and what are your vacuum readings at cruising and at idle?

It sounds like you have reasonable compression, but can you confirm that those readings are hot, with throttle fully open, and all spark plugs removed?

Once we have more information, we may be able to provide information.

Wild Guess #1: Idle mixture screws too far in.

- Eric

coppercutlass

X2 with eric on the idle mixture.

Gary M

Start with turning the idle mixture screws out maybe one turn each. Test drive. Keep a count of how many turns so you can put it back where it was if that's not it.
Turn them the same amount. I looked at mine and turned them all the way in ( with motor off) while counting the turns. I then knew that if I lost count I could open them from closed that many turns and be back where I started. Then put them back and start adjusting out to see if it got better.

If that's not it then gather the other info and post it.

Did it do this dying thing before all the work was done?

olds 307 and 403

Double check your base timing and your mechanical and vacuum advance are working properly. Also check the intake and carb base for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner. I would bet it is the POS Edelbrock carb, a dated design, even for our old cars and people seem to have endless issues with them.

coppercutlass

I have ran 3 diffrent edelbrock carbs with no issues. I dont know why everyone has issues with em.

1969cutlass4d

Ok, so some new data on what is going on. The carb I am running is a 650cfm edelbrock. IMS's are both 4 turns out. Now, when I have the choke pulled 1/4 closed, she stays running, if i pull it out closed half way she dies, and if i open it completely it stutters then dies.

Kinda hard at the moment to do the adjustments without someone behind the wheel at the moment to turn the key. I tried to adjust it both in and out a full turn, didn't seem to make a difference.

new thoughts?

olds 307 and 403

Sounds like it is running lean at idle.

MDchanic

Could be dirty, maybe a piece of junk in an idle jet or passage.

I'd take it apart, inspect it, and blow it out.

What is your timing set to, what port is the vacuum advance connected to, are you sure you don't have any vacuum leaks, including bad vacuum components, what kind of distributor do you have, and what sort of mechanical and vacuum advance curves are on it?

- Eric

1969cutlass4d

I tried adjusting the IMS's from where they are now, to 5 turns out, and then back to 3 turns in, didn't make a difference that I could tell.

oldcutlass

Sounds like your idle speed setting is out of the idle circuit because your choke is engaged. What distributor are you running and what are the settings? Most carb problems are ignition related.

Do you have a copy of this?
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...ers-manual.pdf

1969cutlass4d

ok, I don't get it. After watching a few videos, I went out and all I did was take the idle mixtures screws out to see if there was any dabris (unfortunately I dont have an air compressor here so I cant blow out the ports) but I didn't see any but still wiped off the pins and set them back to 4 turns out. and even though I never touched my idle speed screw before she started acting up, I did turn it up some. Now she is running like she should with the choke completely open.

I am glad that it worked, but at the same time, should I be worried? I don't feel like what I did fixed it, more like the problem fixed itself, and that is never a good sign from my experience.

Gary M

Doing it yourself sure is cheaper than the guys charging you for the time they stand around scratching their heads. Hope you solved it. Don't forget the victory lap. Drive around a little. The guys on here will help you figure out the lights. The people on this forum have helped me countless times.

MDchanic

There was a tiny piece of crud stuck between the needle and the carb. wall.
By removing the needles, you allowed the crud to fall out and be gone.

You fixed it.

This is what I was saying about having other people fix the car - the other guys were going to charge you - what? - a couple of hundred bucks to rebuild the carb., and all you needed to do, like I said, was blow it through (not even that, as it turns out).
If one of the guys in the shop did that, they would have charged you a hundred bucks for a "cleaning and adjustment."

Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

- Eric

Gary M

Most problems are caused by some simple adjustment or anomaly that the benefit of experience alloys you to fix cheap or free. You can learn from members experience here and fix stuff yourself. It's very rewarding to fix these little issues yourself and you will not see her as a burden but a challenge you overcame. You preserve a piece of history and get to enjoy driving it and showing it to admiring enthusiasts.