Hey folks - i'm afraid i'm hearing what I don't think i want to be hearing. I haven't had the car long and have driven it less so don't have much history with it. Mostly have been able to get the carb issues sorted when I recently started hearing what might be a rod knock. It's intermittent which is why i'm semi-hopeful but I don't know if just cold oil vs hot oil either.

Take a listen to this short vid, if you don't mind & let me know what you think. I do have an exhaust leak at the manifold to exit also.


thanks.

 

 

sorrry, fixed that.

 

I don't know... These type of recording's are usually a difficult listen. Because of the whooshing noise ...

Anyway I must of listened to your vid a dozen times. (Smart to put it on a perma loop short by the way.) But that doesn't sound too bad, more like lifter chatter ... How is your oil ?

 

good question. Honestly haven’t done an oil change since owning it yet so that’s on the list. Don’t recall seeing anything on the dipstick.

it does sound much more pronounced on vid and more thumpy like a rod as opposed to a lifter tick.

I’ll report back once I change the oil and filter.

thanks.

 

If it is an automatic transmission, check for loose torque converter bolts. Listen closely when shutting the engine off for 2-3 knocks during the compression kick backs. If it can be heard at that time the bolts are loose.

Good luck!!!

 

good idea! TY!

 

A rod knock will be most noticeable on acceleration. Not only oil colour but a drop in pressure is also a sign.

 

Post #4 Q: How is your oil ?
Post #5 A: Don’t recall seeing anything on the dipstick.

What does the engine sound like when it has the correct amount of oil in it?

 

This is engine diagnosis 101.

Raise the engine idle speed to about 1100 rpm or perhaps a bit more to a point where the idle is smooth. Pull the plug wires one at a time and listen for changes in the noise you hear. If the knock becomes louder, then most likely a rod knock, if the noise becomes less, then likely a loose wrist pin or very rarely piston skirt slap due to excessive skirt clearance. You might want to repeat this test at slightly higher and lower idle speeds, if the rod bearings are the source of trouble the noise might become much louder at a particular idle speed. Really loose rod bearings make a lot of noise when revving the engine lightly from idle, especially when you float the RPM a bit, like 2500 rpm. If there is some reason the engine cannot idle smoothly like a high float level or something wrong with the ignition or bad vacuum leaks then the results of these tests might not as clear.

Rod knocks can sometimes be tricky to identify by sound because especially if the rod bearing is getting very loose the piston can actually hit the head or valves which makes almost a diesel engine sound, think of the clearances closing because of the increasing play in the bearing, almost like a aluminum piston rod stretching.

If you hear no change in the noises heard then check for something like a noisy fuel pump lever, etc. I have had loose crankshaft flange and loose converter bolts and to me that has more of a clacking sound from the rear of engine, same for uncommon automatic transmission pump or assembly noise. Best of luck ~

 

im pretty sure it’s full of oil but will double check.

I won’t get to change the oil until this weekend and will report back when I do. I don’t recall seeing anything out of ordinary when I checked the oil level in the past.

thx

 

ok thx. Oil is at least 30 psi at idle. While I haven’t had the car long I haven’t noticed a drop in pressure. Thx.

 

TY, this is good info. Will report back once I’m able to look into it further.

 

I noticed a substantial drop, from 20 to nearly 0, that is good oil pressure.