Rocket 324 troubles

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Old May 24th, 2016, 04:57 PM
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Rocket 324 troubles

Ive got a 1955 olds super 88. Been sitting awhile and I am trying to get it going but keep running into problem after problem. So far I have replaced plugs and plug wires, gotten the carb remanufactured, petronix kit in distributer, petronix coil, new fuel pump with inline filter between pump and carb cuz there wasnt a filter anywhere i saw on the car, checked timing twice, adjusted the carb a few times and still keep getting hesitation when u try to drive the car. Like it tries to bog down and not take fuel. Used to do it when u revved it up sitting still but no longer does it then only while trying to drive

Also have noticed it seems to take more fuel and be more responsive in L versus in just D. No idea how that can be connected. I have had a couple trans issues with hard shifts and not wanting to shift but those seem to be getting better after Lucas treatment and adding fresh fluid. Is there a vaccuum between trans and motor or something? Vaccuum is something we havent fully checked out cuz i dont know a lot about it

Should also note that the generator isnt charging so can low voltage from just running off the battery be an issue?

We have not dropped tank to check it out either but my original mechanic claims to have done so

Think I have listed everything I have done and checked. Anybody have any ideas where to look next? Sorry to be so long winded but I have kinda gotten frustrated.
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Old May 24th, 2016, 07:19 PM
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OK, I'll assume everything you did up till this point is good. If you did not have bad gas in the tank that you ran through your newly rebuilt carb, then your good there also. The hard shifting could be as simple as a linkage adjustment.

What is your timing set to?
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Old May 24th, 2016, 07:28 PM
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You mention having the carb rebuilt. Be sure you have the right base gasket under the carb. If not you could have a vacuum leak there. Put a vacuum gage on it and see what kind of vacuum you are getting. You should have at least 15 inches of vacuum. Be sure your vacuum advance is working. If you battery is fully charged the non-working generator should not affect it.
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Old May 24th, 2016, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
OK, I'll assume everything you did up till this point is good. If you did not have bad gas in the tank that you ran through your newly rebuilt carb, then your good there also. The hard shifting could be as simple as a linkage adjustment.

What is your timing set to?
We flushed the tank before we did anything and even took carb back apart to check it all and clean it. Ill have to check on the timing tommorrow
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Old May 24th, 2016, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by redoldsman
You mention having the carb rebuilt. Be sure you have the right base gasket under the carb. If not you could have a vacuum leak there. Put a vacuum gage on it and see what kind of vacuum you are getting. You should have at least 15 inches of vacuum. Be sure your vacuum advance is working. If you battery is fully charged the non-working generator should not affect it.
Ended up having to run two base gaskets to keep from leaking there because that was a problem originally. Will check vacuum and vacuum advance tommorrow
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Old May 24th, 2016, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Breedo99
Ive got a 1955 olds super 88. Been sitting awhile and I am trying to get it going but keep running into problem after problem. So far I have replaced plugs and plug wires, gotten the carb remanufactured, petronix kit in distributer, petronix coil, new fuel pump with inline filter between pump and carb cuz there wasnt a filter anywhere i saw on the car, checked timing twice, adjusted the carb a few times and still keep getting hesitation when u try to drive the car. Like it tries to bog down and not take fuel. Used to do it when u revved it up sitting still but no longer does it then only while trying to drive

Also have noticed it seems to take more fuel and be more responsive in L versus in just D. No idea how that can be connected. I have had a couple trans issues with hard shifts and not wanting to shift but those seem to be getting better after Lucas treatment and adding fresh fluid. Is there a vaccuum between trans and motor or something? Vaccuum is something we havent fully checked out cuz i dont know a lot about it

Should also note that the generator isnt charging so can low voltage from just running off the battery be an issue?

We have not dropped tank to check it out either but my original mechanic claims to have done so

Think I have listed everything I have done and checked. Anybody have any ideas where to look next? Sorry to be so long winded but I have kinda gotten frustrated.
If you got the spark advance correct, check choke operation; if that's correct then check the action of the accelerator pump in the carburetor for the bogging problem.

L is two ranges lower than D in the transmission. For a vehicle speed, the engine will have more RPMs, use more fuel and hide the bogging problem.

There is no vacuum connection between the engine and Hydramatic. Sometime a complete fluid change (including the torus), using the correct fluid, can help irregular shifting.

As has been mentioned, the generator should not be a problem as long as sufficient voltage is maintained in the battery. Use a separate charger.

If your original mechanic is an honorable person, the tank should be O.K. Statistically about half don't "bear false witness".
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Old May 24th, 2016, 09:55 PM
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a little off subject from my post but ive been seeing a lot of people saying to buy a service manual for the car. So i went on ebay and snagged on. After i had already bought it i continued reading multiple posts and then saw where everyone was saying to only buy an original one and not a reprint. The one i bought was a reprint.... Whats the deal with not getting a reprint?
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Old May 24th, 2016, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Breedo99
a little off subject from my post but ive been seeing a lot of people saying to buy a service manual for the car. So i went on ebay and snagged on. After i had already bought it i continued reading multiple posts and then saw where everyone was saying to only buy an original one and not a reprint. The one i bought was a reprint.... Whats the deal with not getting a reprint?
Complete copies of the original service manual can be O.K. if they are equally legible.
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Old May 25th, 2016, 02:41 AM
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As Ozzie said, There's nothing wrong with a reprint manual as long as you can read it. I have a Faxon reprint and it even came with copied greasy fingerprints. I make copies of frequently used pages (wiring diagram, fuse and bulb pages, hvac cable diagrams) and put them in clear page protectors.

The glove box owners manual tells you to expect the generator light to be flickering when the car is idling. The generator won't be charging at idle.
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Old May 25th, 2016, 05:58 AM
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You may need to polarize your generator. This post is from another theread:
Originally Posted by Yellowstatue
To polarize the generator, you momentarily short the GEN connection to the BAT connection at the voltage regulator...just a little spark and it's done... '57 CSM pg. 13-11 para. 6
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