Restoration in 30 days
March 2nd, 2008, 03:29 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 4
Restoration in 30 days
High there, Im new to this site. I usually deal with pontiacs but I found myself restoring My Cutlass S. I just pulled my 350 out and have it dissasambled for the machine shop. I noticed that my 350 has some sirrious dish pistons and TDC was also a 1/4in. shy from the deck. I also have some cracked manifolds wich i will replace with some 1 3/4 headders.
What options do I have to bump that 160hp to lets say...300hp? I want nothing radically so an RV Cam is what I had in mind. Is anyone familiar with those heads? Bigger Valve? What are my options.
~Brian
What options do I have to bump that 160hp to lets say...300hp? I want nothing radically so an RV Cam is what I had in mind. Is anyone familiar with those heads? Bigger Valve? What are my options.
~Brian
March 2nd, 2008, 04:19 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 1,875
I assume you're talking about "5" heads?
They're great.
How cheap do you want to be? I think the best way to make an enjoyable
amount of power(IMHO) is in this order:
1. Bump up compression to about 10:1.
2. Larger 2.00" valves and some light porting work WOULD be great
3. You didn't say it was a 2 or 4 bbl but I'm guessing it's was a 2...
(you know what to do here
)
I know a lot of people opt for the edelbrock intake but if you're just going
to go with a performer, save your money and get the factory cast unit...
4. 650 w/ vac secondaries
5. This is a decent split cam spec for your type of build...
Int Lift. Ex.Lift. Adv Duration Lopbe seperation angle
0.496 .512 266°/274° 110°
(this is a mondello/engle grind, I think it's a nice little street cam.
however, once you get past .500 lift, the olds rocker geometry goes to hell. It requires a set of comp cams adjustable rockers and possibly longer
push rods- starting to ad up isn't it?)
6. Headers
7. HEI(optional if you can tune points, but they're cheap. Any factory
junkyard unit in ANY Olds V8 with HEI will fit.)
8. ditch the 2 speed trans and go for a TH350 with a nice tight 2500 converter.
9. Loose the 2.56 rear gears(just guessing again) and throw in a set of 3.42's)
This is one way to make a nice healthy, easy to deal with, pump gas friendly, drive for hours car that will probably turn mid 13's.
You will have fun.
-Peter
They're great.
How cheap do you want to be? I think the best way to make an enjoyable
amount of power(IMHO) is in this order:
1. Bump up compression to about 10:1.
2. Larger 2.00" valves and some light porting work WOULD be great
3. You didn't say it was a 2 or 4 bbl but I'm guessing it's was a 2...
(you know what to do here
)I know a lot of people opt for the edelbrock intake but if you're just going
to go with a performer, save your money and get the factory cast unit...
4. 650 w/ vac secondaries
5. This is a decent split cam spec for your type of build...
Int Lift. Ex.Lift. Adv Duration Lopbe seperation angle
0.496 .512 266°/274° 110°
(this is a mondello/engle grind, I think it's a nice little street cam.
however, once you get past .500 lift, the olds rocker geometry goes to hell. It requires a set of comp cams adjustable rockers and possibly longer
push rods- starting to ad up isn't it?)
6. Headers
7. HEI(optional if you can tune points, but they're cheap. Any factory
junkyard unit in ANY Olds V8 with HEI will fit.)
8. ditch the 2 speed trans and go for a TH350 with a nice tight 2500 converter.
9. Loose the 2.56 rear gears(just guessing again) and throw in a set of 3.42's)
This is one way to make a nice healthy, easy to deal with, pump gas friendly, drive for hours car that will probably turn mid 13's.
You will have fun.
-Peter
March 2nd, 2008, 08:46 PM
#4
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Southern CA
Posts: 2,212
Not much difference. The same laws of physics apply to both.
Doesn't matter much if you are going to replace them.
Your machinist can tell you what pistons are available.
RV cam was designed for use with low compression "smog motors" of the '70s. Be sure to discuss your cam choice with you machinist, as it will affect your piston selection.
As cast, they will easily support your 300 HP.
Norm
RV cam was designed for use with low compression "smog motors" of the '70s. Be sure to discuss your cam choice with you machinist, as it will affect your piston selection.
As cast, they will easily support your 300 HP.
Norm
March 2nd, 2008, 09:12 PM
#5
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Southern CA
Posts: 2,212
JM-20-22 .496/.512 266°/274° 226°/230° 110° Designed and ground, by Engle, for Mondello.
Not an RV cam.
Make that .550". The .500" figure is used by those who sell adjustable rockers.
Norm
Not an RV cam.
Norm
Wouldn't doubt it.
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