Replacing exhaust manifolds on Olds 350
#1
Replacing exhaust manifolds on Olds 350
I am replacing the exhaust system on my 72 Cutlass and while I was at it I wanted to switch to headers. The manifold gaskets need to be replaced anyway so I figured I would switch to headers. Does anyone have suggestions on which headers would be best for my engine (Olds 350)? Has anyone done this? Just want to know the level of difficulty?
Thanks!!!
Thanks!!!
#2
I am replacing the exhaust system on my 72 Cutlass and while I was at it I wanted to switch to headers. The manifold gaskets need to be replaced anyway so I figured I would switch to headers. Does anyone have suggestions on which headers would be best for my engine (Olds 350)? Has anyone done this? Just want to know the level of difficulty?
Thanks!!!
Thanks!!!
2nd...I like Hooker headers. They always fit good, and are of good quality. I have had little experience beyond them, though. I would go with a copper gasket on these if possible.
The worst headers will give you 20 HP more than the best factory stock exhaust manifold. That is an undisputible FACT confirmed by every car mag since 1970.
3rd...I would still rather have stock exhaust manifolds, over headers. They rattle less, will NEVER need a gasket, rarely leak, easy installation, radiate less heat on other components (like your starter solenoid), easy starter access, and are quiet, just to start.
My opinion.
Do you have a dual exhaust system?
Jim
Last edited by Warhead; July 25th, 2010 at 06:12 AM.
#3
Thanks Jim for the advice. I thought there was a gasket because I have an exhaust leak and it's coming from where the manifold is attached on the drivers side. I think I will take your suggestion and stick with the factory manifolds.
And yes, I do have dual exhaust.
And yes, I do have dual exhaust.
#4
if the manifolds have ever been removed they may very well have gaskets. after almost 40 years the manifolds are probably no longer perfectly straight.
headers can be a PITA. the olds bolt pattern is not the best for header flange sealing.
headers can be a PITA. the olds bolt pattern is not the best for header flange sealing.
#5
If you stay with the factory manifolds, make sure they are flat.
Most of the time when a rebuild is done, people use gaskets there because they are included with all rebuild kits. Then they get old, and leak.
I just drag the head surface of the manifold on a flat concrete surface to make sure the surface is flat. Yet to see a bad one. Paint the head on the manifold face with engine paint, and it will seal with amazing results, never had a leak there.
I like to use studs and nuts (brass will not seize up ever) at the collector flange.
Good luck,
Jim
Most of the time when a rebuild is done, people use gaskets there because they are included with all rebuild kits. Then they get old, and leak.
I just drag the head surface of the manifold on a flat concrete surface to make sure the surface is flat. Yet to see a bad one. Paint the head on the manifold face with engine paint, and it will seal with amazing results, never had a leak there.
I like to use studs and nuts (brass will not seize up ever) at the collector flange.
Good luck,
Jim
#6
Jim, Would you suggest getting new manifolds or just reusing the originals? Any tips on cleaning the old ones? Also, I have the car lifted approx 2 ft off the ground, is it easier to remove the manifolds with the fenders off or from underneath?
#7
Sand blast (or shot peen) does the best job for cleaning, and I like VHT cast blast for a paint. Looks great, lasts a long time, and inexpensive. It also prevents rust like any paint would. Trust me on this. Looks better than just sand blasting.
Jim
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