Rebuilding 5 heads
Rebuilding 5 heads
I have a set of #5 heads that I am going to put in the 350 in the 64. I would like this car to get into the low 13s high 12s if possible. These heads are going to be the first heads I ever rebuild so I don't really know what to do.
Right now Im running:
1975 350 bore .040
Holley Street Avenger 670cfm
Holley Street Dominator intake
2.5 inch dual exhaust
TH350
Pegleg (I plan change in the future)
pretty much everything else is stock I believe.
I plan on getting headers, and a cam to match the machine work Im going to have done to the heads.
So I was wondering what I should have done to the heads to get to my goal, bigger valves??? Get the intake manifold ports matched up??? etc...
Any suggestion on the what headers that fit good in 64s would also be helpful. I heard Dick Millers fit the best but they are expensive
.
Right now Im running:
1975 350 bore .040
Holley Street Avenger 670cfm
Holley Street Dominator intake
2.5 inch dual exhaust
TH350
Pegleg (I plan change in the future)
pretty much everything else is stock I believe.
I plan on getting headers, and a cam to match the machine work Im going to have done to the heads.
So I was wondering what I should have done to the heads to get to my goal, bigger valves??? Get the intake manifold ports matched up??? etc...
Any suggestion on the what headers that fit good in 64s would also be helpful. I heard Dick Millers fit the best but they are expensive
.
What pistons do you have, what dish?
Weekend cruiser, and occasional race?
What is your idea of the RPM range?
You do have an attainable goal.
How much $ do you have to spend on it?
Read this...
http://72.22.90.30/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=39647
Gears, and converter will make a big difference here.
Fill the crossover, get an electric choke=free 20 HP.
Check out all of these builds on this site.
Jim
Weekend cruiser, and occasional race?
What is your idea of the RPM range?
You do have an attainable goal.
How much $ do you have to spend on it?
Read this...
http://72.22.90.30/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=39647
Gears, and converter will make a big difference here.
Fill the crossover, get an electric choke=free 20 HP.
Check out all of these builds on this site.
Jim
Last edited by Warhead; Jun 10, 2009 at 01:58 PM.
Im not really sure about the pistons. I bought this engine already rebuilt from a shop, Im guessing its just the stock low compression pistons
.Would I still be able to get to my a goal with these pistons???
I would like this car to be able to be a daily driver if any of my other cars decides to break on me. But it will mostly be a weekend car and see the strip probably a few times a year.
Has for rpm range I really don't know. I read somewhere the 350 could handle up to 5500 rpm but I don't know if thats true??? Right now I have about $1500 to $2000 to put into the car.
Should I just wait to get a posi rear end before I change the gears or just go with the pegleg?I heard that the converter is one of the last things you should get, is that true?
Is there a plug to fill the crossover? I just realized your in AZ so do you know of any good machine shops here that know Oldsmobile engines??? Sorry about all the questions. Thanks in advance Warhead.
.Would I still be able to get to my a goal with these pistons???I would like this car to be able to be a daily driver if any of my other cars decides to break on me. But it will mostly be a weekend car and see the strip probably a few times a year.
Has for rpm range I really don't know. I read somewhere the 350 could handle up to 5500 rpm but I don't know if thats true??? Right now I have about $1500 to $2000 to put into the car.
Should I just wait to get a posi rear end before I change the gears or just go with the pegleg?I heard that the converter is one of the last things you should get, is that true?
Is there a plug to fill the crossover? I just realized your in AZ so do you know of any good machine shops here that know Oldsmobile engines??? Sorry about all the questions. Thanks in advance Warhead.
#1.....With an honest 5500 redline, the cast pistons would suffice, but giving up compression will always give up some power. There is more than 1 way to skin a cat, though.
The engines that were built with #8 heads (years 73-76), had pistons similar to the early high compression pistons. The #8 head had an 80cc chamber, so the factory used less dish to make the compression come out around 8:1. IF...you have pistons for the #8 heads, when you put the #5 heads on it, you will jack the compression up.
1971/72 engines had a larger dish used with a smaller chamber.
so this begs the question.......what heads are on the car right now, and what year engine is it???
#2 So are you saying that you would be fine with using only premium fuel?
#3 5500 rpm is realistic, and your budget should be able to get you there.
#4a The posi should be one of the first things on the list. Even before the heads, IMO. It really is less costly to do the gears at the same time. What gears are in there now? You may want to go with a better axle (8.5 from a 72?) and just swap the whole works out. Here is the rub...The more gear (higher numeric), the less you will drive any long distance, the more your engine is at higher RPM (kinda like driving in second gear if you go to high) and the more fuel you will con$ume.
But it sure as hell get's out of it's own way.
Less gear, slower acceleration, better economy.
I like 3.55 gears if street driven.
#4b Converter needs to be matched with cam, and compression. Still an unknown here.
#5 Plugs will work, may get added 5-7 HP. I'd rather pour the heads with aluminum, then grind a nice bowl. Even a short fill (not quite to the bowl) will get the 20, just not as pretty.
There are a couple of shops that are decent with Oldsmobile engines, but I would never say that they know them. I have to tell them what I want, then I will take it from there.
It probably is easier to take any decent 455, from any year, stick it in the thing, with a stock converter, and gears, and make it go 13.80's. Then just whittle it down from there, with mild gears, and simple tricks.
I think what you want to attain is doable.
PM me if you want to talk.
Jim
The engines that were built with #8 heads (years 73-76), had pistons similar to the early high compression pistons. The #8 head had an 80cc chamber, so the factory used less dish to make the compression come out around 8:1. IF...you have pistons for the #8 heads, when you put the #5 heads on it, you will jack the compression up.
1971/72 engines had a larger dish used with a smaller chamber.
so this begs the question.......what heads are on the car right now, and what year engine is it???
#2 So are you saying that you would be fine with using only premium fuel?
#3 5500 rpm is realistic, and your budget should be able to get you there.
#4a The posi should be one of the first things on the list. Even before the heads, IMO. It really is less costly to do the gears at the same time. What gears are in there now? You may want to go with a better axle (8.5 from a 72?) and just swap the whole works out. Here is the rub...The more gear (higher numeric), the less you will drive any long distance, the more your engine is at higher RPM (kinda like driving in second gear if you go to high) and the more fuel you will con$ume.
But it sure as hell get's out of it's own way.
Less gear, slower acceleration, better economy.
I like 3.55 gears if street driven.
#4b Converter needs to be matched with cam, and compression. Still an unknown here.
#5 Plugs will work, may get added 5-7 HP. I'd rather pour the heads with aluminum, then grind a nice bowl. Even a short fill (not quite to the bowl) will get the 20, just not as pretty.
There are a couple of shops that are decent with Oldsmobile engines, but I would never say that they know them. I have to tell them what I want, then I will take it from there.
It probably is easier to take any decent 455, from any year, stick it in the thing, with a stock converter, and gears, and make it go 13.80's. Then just whittle it down from there, with mild gears, and simple tricks.
I think what you want to attain is doable.
PM me if you want to talk.
Jim
Last edited by Warhead; Jun 10, 2009 at 07:41 PM.
1. Right now the heads on it are #8 and the engine is a 75.
2. Yeah, I expected to have to use premium with #5 heads anyways.
3. Ok thank you
4. So would I keep my rear housing from the 64 and just put everything in it from a 72? The gears in it right now are the highway ones I cant remember what they are I think 2.72 but Im not sure.
5. Would a machine shop be able to pour the aluminum, or would I have to build a little brick furnace like a someone did on ROP?
I would put a 455 in it but I just got this 350 put in and running about a month or 2 ago.
2. Yeah, I expected to have to use premium with #5 heads anyways.
3. Ok thank you
4. So would I keep my rear housing from the 64 and just put everything in it from a 72? The gears in it right now are the highway ones I cant remember what they are I think 2.72 but Im not sure.
5. Would a machine shop be able to pour the aluminum, or would I have to build a little brick furnace like a someone did on ROP?
I would put a 455 in it but I just got this 350 put in and running about a month or 2 ago.
#4...NO. The 8.5 is a totally different housing, end to end. Gears and posi units (it is actually called Sure Track) are available for what you have, but unless you find the RARE 4 spider posi (most have 2 spider gears-which are a weak link of this axle) you will have a weaker unit. If you put sticky tires on this thing, the spiders, and the axle ends (you will be trying to twist the splines off of the ends) are at risk. I have a 2 spider case (minus spiders, and side gears-that is how I know this stuff-I broke them), but you need parts for it, and someone to set it up.
The 8.5 will be more economical to build inexpensively, IF you can find a housing for it... Ecology.
#5...I do not know of any that do, but I can help you out with that, as long as you are not in any sort of rush. I have a little brick furnace.
#6 Understood.
If I were you, I would try to get the axle stuff done first, it is the big step here.
Then you can work your way down to your goal.
BTW-what trans do you have???
Jim
The 8.5 will be more economical to build inexpensively, IF you can find a housing for it... Ecology.
#5...I do not know of any that do, but I can help you out with that, as long as you are not in any sort of rush. I have a little brick furnace.
#6 Understood.
If I were you, I would try to get the axle stuff done first, it is the big step here.
Then you can work your way down to your goal.
BTW-what trans do you have???
Jim
Last edited by Warhead; Jun 11, 2009 at 03:58 PM.
4. Ok thank you. So, will the 72 rearend bolt right up to a 64? I thought I read somewhere that it wouldn't???
5. Nope no rush here. Still gotta get the 70 running.
I have a th350, with no shift kit. Should that also be something I do before the heads?
Thank you
Nick
5. Nope no rush here. Still gotta get the 70 running.
I have a th350, with no shift kit. Should that also be something I do before the heads?
Thank you
Nick
Yes it will. You may need to mess with brake lines, and such.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...it-g-body.html
This stuff is out there.
The shift kit? YES, along with a transmission cooler.
Jim
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...it-g-body.html
This stuff is out there.
The shift kit? YES, along with a transmission cooler.
Jim
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