The duplicolor universal gold works well when you use a brownish engine paint underneath. The gold is really transparent (thin) . So if you use a brown it will appear more like the burnished gold the olds engines are. I have also used cat yellow underneath the gold with good results.

 

The build progresses.

cutlassfi is. the. man.

Thank you Mark.

Dyno on Thursday!

 

Also, its going to need gauges if anyone can recommend a source for the rally pack?

Anyone deal with these guys?

 

Motor looks awesome, can hardly wait to see the numbers!

 

Thanks Christian, me neither. Thursday can't come quick enough

 

Some more info gentlemen;
9.0:1, it'll be run on 89 octane on the dyno.
Cam is custom Lunati Hyd roller, 219/226@.050 with .517/.524 lift on a 114lsa. He wants a "driver".
Heads are his original 7a's with 2.00/1.62 valves. Crossovers are filled and dividers welded. However there were some issues with the heads initially so he ended up taking them to my guy in Palm Coast Fl. to sort it all out.
He has shorty headers but it'll be dynoed with long tubes.
Stock size oil pan and stock oil pump with purple spring.
Initial fire up and pulls will be with a QF 750 Slayer. May end up with a Holley Sniper TB EFI.
Stock distributor.

Hope this helps, thanks guys.

 

Any port work on the heads or just the bowls opened? How much difference on an early head like those does welding the divider make? I have set of #6 pretty much identical with some port work but the divider isn't welded. It is a very small gap on early heads, the gap is huge on some of the later heads. I can hardly wait to see some numbers!

 

Just opened the bowls.

cutlassefi will have to answer the differences

 

He is the one I hope answers. It makes sense with Procomp heads available only to go that far with iron heads.

 

Too late: I already bought the Hedman shorty headers, but look at these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RALLYE-RALL...IAAOSwXEdaf1xn

When did thes come out?

 

Just shortly after you bought your Hedman's. You could return your Hedman's, those should bolt right on your current exhaust an they are stainless! There is a bit of a bottle neck at the collector but going from a 3" collector to 2.25" or 2.5" exhaust pipe will also restrict as well on any header. What size is your current exhaust?

 

Already painted the Hedmans and I am outside of the 30 day return period. I had the stock manifolds, but not going back in the car. Hoping to get the engine in this weekend, if all goes well at the Dyno on Thursday.

 

Overall the Hedman's should match your current stroker better. As long as you have at least 2.25" dual exhaust it will flow enough. My 70 had less than 2" duals and passenger side was wrong for those Thornton headers being bent for the later 260 manifold. I would suggest aluminum collector gaskets if you have any blow out issues. Those or copper are the only ones that last any time for me.

 

Sorry, I missed your question. My current duals are 2 1/4.
Thanks!

 

Mike:
Here's another vote for the VHT gold engine paint. And polish those valve covers, they look much better shiny!
Rodney

 

That looks awesome except you need to paint your crank pulley. I polished my Edelbrock version of those covers and used POR 15 clear coat, it actually lasted pretty well with engine heat, they still look decent with minimal peeling.

 

I purchased the Tic Tock Tack from these folks. They are about 1.5 hours away so I was able to crack open the box and take a look before I purchased it. To my eyes very good quality, keeps great time, and the RPM reading is pretty much right on.

Good luck with your build! I'm looking at doing the same so I'm pulling for you guys!

 

Rally Pack on the way
Thanks cdrod, bee st louis & ClassicOldsmobile.com

 

Yeah, I didn't have the right crank pulley when I powder coated the others. It will go in the next batch of parts along with the AC compressor brackets. The valve covers are polished and waxed, no clear coat. I'm not sure how long the shiny finish will last in the engine bay. Thanks for the compliments, now if only I could get my engine installed and running...

Rodney

 

All that glitters is gOLDs!

 

Here it is:

Horsepower 408, Torque was a wopping 517! (571 was dyslexic typo)

I'll chime in later with some more info, cutlassefi should chime in with the specifics.

Super greatful to Mark, cutalssefi for everything.
His guidance was spot on.
His price was fair, and he is exceedingly easy to deal with.
I was blessed to witness the Dyno day.

If you are rebuilding, trust Mark. I would also say to take ALL of his recommendations, even if you have other ideas. He is literally an engine Guru.

I'm out of town most of next week and hoping to get the motor installed tomorrow (saturday).
I'll keep you updated

 

>>Horsepower 408, Torque was a whopping 571!

wow that should be a real pleasure to drive Ill bet your pumped to get it back out on the road!!!

 

Actually hp was 408 but tq was 504+. However it only had 30* of timing in it so there was bit more to be had. And again on 89 octane, not bad I think.
Great build, thanks Mike for the opportunity!

 

 

Thank you Mike!
Cam is Lunati custom hyd roller, 219/226@.050 on a 114lsa.
Compression is 9.0:1
Intake is RPM untouched.
QF Slayer 750 carb
Flowtech headers with Magnaflow mufflers.
Virtually untouched 7a heads with 2.00/1.62 valves.

Engine ran smooth with 18" of vacuum at idle.

 

Colour me wrong on my estimate! Over 400 hp and 500 ft/lbs with 30 degrees of timing, which is 6 degrees retarded in my books. I got 18 degrees of vacuum with the crappy 204/214 cam in my 403. Very impressed.

 

I predicted 422 hp and 459 TQ.


I was not too far off with my hp estimate. Bump the timing to 34 degrees from 30 & it might be right there.


That long stroke sure adds a pail of TQ. I was way under the observed TQ. That is a good lesson - long lever = torque. Very impressed.


Congratulations on that very nice build. Enjoy it!!!!

 

She's ready to go in, but I'm out of time. I'll try to get back to it by the end of the week.

 

And here is a copy of the Dyno results:

 

Looks great Mike.
For all, this dyno sheet is with the Sniper EFI. Easy to tell if you look at the fuel pressure. That Holley TBI made exactly the same peak as the carb but did a wee bit better in the midrange.

 

Thanks Mark, I’m bummed I could not afford the EFI, but super stoked with what I got. I posted the EFI page to show what you can do with a 46 year old block and heads. It’s brilliant.

 

I actually see 516 ft/lbs and that is the start of the curve, probably more. Glad to hear the Sniper matched horsepower and no doubt would be more user friendly.

 

Nice part Mike, after you blow the doors off the car next to you, show them the Rocket 350. Make sure your Rocket 350 sticker is visible.

 

Yes, I'm trying to conceal any visible changes from stock. I ground off the Edelbrock and rpm/performer logos and painted the manifold gold for that very reason.
I do think I'll need to add another snorkel to the air cleaner!

I had some unavoidable delays, and don't have a stretch of time to work on the car for the 4-6 weeks. If I'm not stuck waiting for parts I can get it done.

Maintaining the visibly stock OLDS theme, can anyone recommend the best fuel line and throttle bracket combination for the Quick fuel 750 slayer?
I'll need a cruise control link and a kick-down hole for the 200r4.

Thanks!

 

You never count the first and last numbers. That’s when you first grab it and then when the throttle comes back at the end.
However it does reflect what is most likely the meat of the torque curve.

 

I have heard that about the first number but didn't realize that about the last number. You have had a few Dyno sessions, so I'm sure that is right. Either way 500+ ft/lbs is very impressive, I need to start saving so I can copy this build.

 

Yep.
A quick upgrade to this would be to use a set of big valve big block heads with a Victor intake. Now you’re looking at approaching 500hp.

 

Advice for the install of the Headers?
I have the remflex gasket and Really want to do it right and avoid any future leaks.

 

Its hard to mess it up. On the passenger side install the header then the oil filter daparter and filter. On the driver side notch the front and rear bolt holes on the gaskets. You slip the header in and just loosely bolt the front bolt so the header swings. Install your starter then level up the header and slip the gasket in. same way I have been doing it for years without leaks.

 

So no extra sealants or other "stuff"?