I have manual choke can I convert this to electric choke?....thanks guysIMG_20130127_164316_390.jpg here some pics

 

Depends on which carb you have today. If the carb was originally a hot air choke, and depending on how the manual conversion was done, yes, it's easy. Post a photo of the choke mechanism side of the carb and we can provide more helpful info.

 

Will do joe when i get back home... thank you

 

pictures are up please let me know what i may need to have electric choke

 

You've posted a picture of an automatic choke.

Where does the cable for the dashboard control connect?

- Eric

 

It has no cable that i see

 

Okaaayyyyy...

You've posted a photo of an automatic choke, and you say there's no dashboard control, but you say you want to convert from a manual to an automatic choke.



Perhaps I am not understanding your question, because from all appearances you do NOT have a manual choke in on the engine you posted photos of.

- Eric

 

Im confused myself is automatic choke same as electric??? I thought electric has a power wire from it i dont see mine has powere wire.

 

Your pics show a choke that's operated by heat from under the manifold (exhaust crossover). Those little pipes carry the heat to your choke. They work perfectly fine assuming nothing is wrong with it. Why do you want electric?
That open vacuum port off the intake isn't helping though? Or does that go to the air cleaner?

 

A manual choke had a hand-operated control on the dashboard (hence "manual"). When it's cold, you pull it out, as the engine warms up, you push it in.
I've installed them on most American cars I've had over the years.

An automatic choke operates without your being aware of it.
All American cars from at least the early sixties onward (was there a Rambler or a Studebaker that still had a manual choke in 1960?) had automatic chokes.
Automatic chokes can be heated by direct radiation from the crossover, as in the pre-1970 Oldsmobiles, by hot air pulled through a tube that runs through the crossover, as in the post-1970 Oldsmobiles, or by an electrically heated coil, as in the 1980s-ish Oldsmobiles.
The electrically-heated units do away with the hot-air plumbing and orifice, and (in the case of the earlier cars) with the divorced-choke spring and linkage.

As Trip said, if you have an automatic hot-air choke that works, why do you want to change it?

- Eric

 

The open port does go to air cleaner....a local hot rod enthusiast saw my car and heard it start i have to pump gas to get it started or hold down gas down to start it he told me if i get electric choke i will just be able to turn key an it will fire right up....any input on this also please thanks

 

Thank you Eric ur input is always greatly appreciated I will leave it alone....maybe u can help me with my little starting issues....

 

I would say he's full of you know what. All an electric choke does vs a hot air choke is heat the choke coil electrically instead of via exhaust gas heat.

Personally I've never understood the fascination with electric chokes and why anyone would go through the trouble converting to one. I just don't see how they're any better. The only reasons for switching to an electric choke over a hot air choke that I could see are 1) intake has no provision for hot air choke 2) running a carb spacer places the hot air tubes out of reach to carb, and 3) heat crossovers are filled.

I'm running an electric choke on my Qjet because of #1 above. Others have told me to switch even when I was running the stock intake because it would be 'better'. I did so simply because I knew I would be doing the intake swap later on. As suspected, there was absolutely no difference between the two.

 

"Starting issues" = poor dwell adjustment and/or poor timing adjustment and/or defective points / condenser / cap / rotor / spark plug wires / spark plugs and/or carb in need of rebuild.

You need to give the car a complete tune-up before even considering changing anything.

The original choke on that car should start it flawlessly if the engine is tuned up, the carb is in good shape, and the choke is adjusted properly.

- Eric

edit: Thank you, DoubleV.

 

A few additional points (and by the way, THIS is why a photo is always a good idea). As Eric has noted, this is the stock hot air choke. Before changing anything, be sure the car is properly tuned and the carb adjusted correctly. Frankly, that carb looks like it could use a rebuild also. When this car was new, it started fine with that choke, so get it in correct operating condition before throwing unnecessary money at it. The hot air choke operates with a bimetallic spring that's under that round black plastic cover. The spring loses tension as it ages, and may need to be replaced for the choke to work properly. Also, there is an adjustment capability that allows you to dial in the amount of tension on the choke and how long it takes to open when it warms up.

If you decide you do want an electric choke (and personally I also prefer them), simply use the thermostatic choke coil from a mid-1980s Chevy pickup with a Qjet. That coil simply replaces the hot air coil on your carb currently. Wire the coil as detailed here:

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ighlight=choke

 

One more thing. It's hard to tell in the photo you posted, but the black plastic choke coil cover has a scribe mark on it. Note the raised marks on the edged of the metal housing that it fits into. The scribe mark is normally supposed to be aligned with the large center mark on the housing, with some +/- adjustment depending on the specific application. Yours does not appear to be aligned properly, though this may just be the fuzziness of the photo. If it's not aligned, THAT will definitely cause starting problems.

 

Don't forget basic starting procedures for a carb car, never going to be turn the key and go like modern fuel injection cars. Fully depress and release the gas pedal to engage the choke before trying to start. Cold and hot starting instructions are in the owners manual and you can find one online if you do not have it.


Maybe you do need carb and/or choke repairs but see what is working and what is not before doing anything.

 

Yeah I just need to quit being cheap and it get It done..thanks

 

It was mentioned but not elaborated on: That unplugged port behind the carb on the intake. Did you disconnect the hose for picture purposes and does it indeed go to the air cleaner? If so, this is part of your Thermostatic Controlled Air cleaner system, or as the shop manual calls it CCS, Controlled Combustion System. All it does is direct warm air from the exhaust manifold (via that heat tube attached to the exhaust manifold)directly into the air cleaner snorkel when the engine is cold. Once the temp in the aircleaner gets to around 123F, that damper in the snorkel slowly starts to open allowing outside air into the carb. The vacuum hoses attached to the diaphragm on top of the snorkel and the underside of the aircleaner housing control the opening of the damper. One hose from the little air-bleed valve on the under side of the air cleaner goes to the diaphragm, and the other goes to manifold vacuum. If this is not hooked up correctly, it may interfere with cold starts and warm ups, although I run my Chevy big block without it, ( since it has headers) and do not have any problems. This system was intended to reduce emissions and improve cold start operation. Don't mean to make it sound complicated, it really is not, but check to make sure the system is functioning correctly. Hope this helps you, Chumley