Push rod / lifter issue
Push rod / lifter issue
Good day, from Manitoba.
New to this site; signed up due to a good buddy bringing me his '71 350 to put together.
A year ago his 'plastic' timing gear blew up, and proceeded to eat up the motor... bent valves & push rods, buggered up a few pistons, etc.
He them took it to an engine shop to get it overhauled, only to wait a year and have very little done to it.
So a couple weeks back he wheeled it into my shop, with a pile of new parts, and asked me to complete it.
Fast forward to today:
block cleaned, hot tanked, line bore checked good, cyl's bored .030 over, crank mag'd good & machined -.010 under, new pistons installed (Sealed Power L2320F's), re-used factory rods, and the heads (#7's) got hot-tanked/decked/valve guides installed/new valves (SBI 00969/00970) all lapped in.
Stock cam in rough shape, so he got an Edelbrock cam kit (#3712), which included a Comp cam & Edelbrock lifters.
Which brings me to my question...
As the push rods are bent, I'm ordering new ones.
I mocked up a head on the shortblock last night, with new Felpro H Gasket, to check push rod length.
These are flat tappet hyd lifters, and they have a huge range; I can push in the top receiver about .200"
I'm sorta use to a chevy, where the rockers are adjustable.... these are not.
With a couple of straight stock (8.240" long) push rods, I'm only pushing on the lifter by about .008" , and I'd feel way better with more.
Any reason I can't order up 8.300" push rods, as these hyd lifters are quite forgiving.
Please reply with some guidance, or if one needs a bit more info.
Thanks!
Clif
New to this site; signed up due to a good buddy bringing me his '71 350 to put together.
A year ago his 'plastic' timing gear blew up, and proceeded to eat up the motor... bent valves & push rods, buggered up a few pistons, etc.
He them took it to an engine shop to get it overhauled, only to wait a year and have very little done to it.
So a couple weeks back he wheeled it into my shop, with a pile of new parts, and asked me to complete it.
Fast forward to today:
block cleaned, hot tanked, line bore checked good, cyl's bored .030 over, crank mag'd good & machined -.010 under, new pistons installed (Sealed Power L2320F's), re-used factory rods, and the heads (#7's) got hot-tanked/decked/valve guides installed/new valves (SBI 00969/00970) all lapped in.
Stock cam in rough shape, so he got an Edelbrock cam kit (#3712), which included a Comp cam & Edelbrock lifters.
Which brings me to my question...
As the push rods are bent, I'm ordering new ones.
I mocked up a head on the shortblock last night, with new Felpro H Gasket, to check push rod length.
These are flat tappet hyd lifters, and they have a huge range; I can push in the top receiver about .200"
I'm sorta use to a chevy, where the rockers are adjustable.... these are not.
With a couple of straight stock (8.240" long) push rods, I'm only pushing on the lifter by about .008" , and I'd feel way better with more.
Any reason I can't order up 8.300" push rods, as these hyd lifters are quite forgiving.
Please reply with some guidance, or if one needs a bit more info.
Thanks!
Clif
I'm sure someone else with more experience will answer, but I know I ordered standard pushrods and lifters and a aftermarket cam for my Olds 350 and when I put together I found the pushrods were too short- didn't even push the lifters down. I found out that the base circle on the cam was smaller that the original Olds cam.
Yes, you can order longer pushrods. If nothing else, the thicker modern head gaskets will lift the head by ~0.022". You might be able to convince the customer to get the Comp adjustable rocker kit. It's pretty cheap, but the pushrods that come with it are very flimsy.
Enlighten me on your reply, as I'm only used to roller lifters/specific length push rods & lash adjusters on my hemi nitro motors.
My knowledge of hyd lifters, and setting them, goes way back to the old 350 SBC days of my youth.
My knowledge of hyd lifters, and setting them, goes way back to the old 350 SBC days of my youth.
Man, that's quite a line up of 'Olds', Mr. Oldster Ralph.
To you & all who replied, THANK YOU for the info; learned a bunch, which is the best part of these forums.
So.... one more question... the new parts 'wheelbarrow' also had a Felpro Valley Pan Gasket (MS 90069).
Not familiar with these junks of sheet metal, other than keeping engine heat away from the intake, or using something similar with a highrise intake install, which is not happening here... all stock..
Do I need it?
Clif
To you & all who replied, THANK YOU for the info; learned a bunch, which is the best part of these forums.
So.... one more question... the new parts 'wheelbarrow' also had a Felpro Valley Pan Gasket (MS 90069).
Not familiar with these junks of sheet metal, other than keeping engine heat away from the intake, or using something similar with a highrise intake install, which is not happening here... all stock..
Do I need it?
Clif
The small piece is a shield to keep oil from being thrown up into the oil fill tube. it goes in the front of the block before the front cover. Ill post a picture in the morning if nobody else beats me to it.
As far as your lifter preload goes my first question would be what does Edelbrock recommend ?? For a mild cam I would think anywhere in the middle of the lifter travel should be fine.
The factory spec is about .060 but they have you measure it in an unusual manner. Basically with everything dry you push the lifter end of the rocker arm down all the way and then they want .080 - .135 lash at the valve. But that is with the stock GM lifters.
I would find out what Edelbrock wants first and go with that if you can instead of guessing. Here, I did your homework for you. All the information you need is on page 2

https://www.jegs.com/InstallationIns...YwgP9KvjVAeXVF
As far as your lifter preload goes my first question would be what does Edelbrock recommend ?? For a mild cam I would think anywhere in the middle of the lifter travel should be fine.
The factory spec is about .060 but they have you measure it in an unusual manner. Basically with everything dry you push the lifter end of the rocker arm down all the way and then they want .080 - .135 lash at the valve. But that is with the stock GM lifters.
I would find out what Edelbrock wants first and go with that if you can instead of guessing. Here, I did your homework for you. All the information you need is on page 2

https://www.jegs.com/InstallationIns...YwgP9KvjVAeXVF
Last edited by BillK; Aug 26, 2024 at 06:20 PM.
So.... one more question... the new parts 'wheelbarrow' also had a Felpro Valley Pan Gasket (MS 90069).
Not familiar with these junks of sheet metal, other than keeping engine heat away from the intake, or using something similar with a highrise intake install, which is not happening here... all stock..
Do I need it?
Clif
Not familiar with these junks of sheet metal, other than keeping engine heat away from the intake, or using something similar with a highrise intake install, which is not happening here... all stock..
Do I need it?
Clif
Dang... I knew I should have asked about that little plate BEFORE assembling the short block /timing cover/water pump/pan.
Well, i'm not going to tear it down for a little plate; I'll machine up a nice short filler spout to press in, that has a sealed screw-on cap..
Well, i'm not going to tear it down for a little plate; I'll machine up a nice short filler spout to press in, that has a sealed screw-on cap..
Well you need an intake manifold gasket so you may as well use the one you already have. The valley tray is designed to keep oil off the hot exhaust crossover as well as seal the intake ports with the embossed areas. They have been used on Olds engines forever so no reason to fear using it.
I guess its left over from the days when there was a breather cap on top of the oil fill. Doesnt really do anything with a sealed oil fill cap.
Agreed it's not really useful unless someone drops nuts and bolts down the oil fill tube. Keep the little kids out from under the hood and all should be fine.
Not very often in this day & age that one can get to know people that take the time to do so.
You are a wealth of information, and again, Thank You!
Clif
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