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Ok, so I pulled a couple of valves. One thing that became abundantly clear was lack of light above my vise. I have 3 LED 4 ft lights up front, a 100W equivalent LED replacement bulb in the light fixture but the only close light were the two 100W equivalent LED lights in the garage door opener. So I bought a 4 ft light to go above the bench. I open the box and this an attach to the wall style and just the three wires bare. So I have to solder and heat shrink and use a glow winter flex cord that had the end replaced on the female end and cracked in two spots. I cut at the furthest spot and the cord was plenty long. Not as bright as some LED but I suspended it maybe a foot and a half above the vise, just above the top of my tool box. My next question is, is blasting the head the only way to effectively remove the carbon in the ports, valves and chamber? If it is, I will need a blast cabinet. I have siphon feed large blaster and a hand held one but they make a hell of a mess. I also may need a new variable speed die grinder. I have a one speed dremel and cheapy variable speed die grinder. I need controlled grinding to not destroy the valve job. If it needs a valve job, makes it dollars closer to a pair of aluminum heads. I will need a clear marking on the seats to not nick them. Any helpful advice is welcome.
It you going to port them, I wouldn't worry about the carbon in the ports. Won't last long when you start porting.
I would do a valve job regardless. To do a proper porting porting job, valves have to come out. Odds are you will damage your seats
I agree with Kyle, the carbon will come out once you start with the grinding. I have two electric and one air die grinders. I alternate between the electrics mostly but the air grinder is small and sometimes easier to get in tight places. Both electrics are single speed, one an old Craftsman, the other a Makita. I have had variable speed electrics before but the speed control always fails. You will want an assortment of carbide burrs (some with long shanks), grinding points and cartridge rolls, etc. and a piece of carborundum to dress the grinding points. Best if you have an old head to practice on first; the burrs can get away from you easily until you learn how to control them. You are almost certain to nick a valve seat at some point, if not with a burr or a grinding point almost certainly when a sandpaper cartridge roll starts to come apart. Check falcontool.com for supplies. Also, most importantly, use a good respirator to protect your lungs and safety glasses to protect the eyes!
I had luck with few layers of duct tape on seats. In a circle, leaving room to get down into the bowl. But still be very careful. Telescoping gauges are a must. Porting made a huge difference with my first engine with 7a heads with big block valves added..
Last edited by HighwayStar 442; December 22nd, 2020 at 11:52 AM.
I know it's tedious to port and polish heads but I actually enjoyed it. Paint the intake side and place gasket and scribe around edges. Use that as your guide.
With mine, punching in new seats and bigger valves,guides,drilled for bigger studs, clean the face, was close to 1800.
You might save by going aluminum, but iron gives you a stock look and too me the cool factor
That's why when I saw these #6 for $400 fully rebuilt, I claimed them. He actually took down the ad till I could meet up with him in Moose Jaw. They were actually better than he said, he didn't know the guy used the bowl hog cutter. I have another fully ported set with filled crossovers but are only 55cc, too small. Let's just say aluminum is an option, I am considering. Yeah, if a valve job at minimum is needed, pretty much unavoidable, I have to weigh that into the cost vs aluminum.
Another set of #6 but they probably need a valve job at minimum, maybe guides as well. Yeah, supposedly $1200 of work in them, a steal for $400.
I took all my power mech classes in highschool way back in day. Did rebuild a few sets, drilled in new guides, did seats and valves.
Had my teacher watching over my shoulder tho, completed them and worked well.
See the odd valve machine set come up forsale, tempted to buy one and start learning again.
Yeah, we ground valves and seats in power mech class as well. I think we did it in Auotech, I took the first year at ACC. The only time I ever got A's in school. I worked in shops, pay was awful. Got my 3A and 1A license. I went back to the Ford dealer a couple years back, they wanted me to stay, I didn't. They had me doing windshield's, Ford's are worst to remove. For $14 an hour, no thanks. They wonder why there is a shortage of technicians, the pay sucks.
Oh cool, you did college in Brandon!!!
Yeah I was to continue and go there as well.
But was young, had a fun small car and a gf.
We all know what happens with that, so I never did go become a journeyman mechanic. Stayed swinging hammer, 21 years total. Fed up with that in 2013 and hit the patch, haven't looked back.
Welding shop to coming up forsale eventually, bank repo it is. Directly north of my acreage, so tempted to buy it. Start setting up my retirement gig. Lol
I did go to College in Brandon. We lived there for 2 years. How is the patch? I got Married at 21, my oldest is 23, she just graduated from University. I should have gotten my journeyman, hard with little kids and lack of money. My BIL teaches mechanics at Crocus Plains in Brandon, a licensed Mechanic who took teaching courses. My Cousin Ken Rae, has been in trucking for 47 years, owns Odanah Trucking in Brandon. His Dad, Dad's brother Denis was a heavy equipment operator in Souris for years. Dad was Carpenter. My Grandfather was a Carpenter and all his Brothers were Tradesmen as well in Scotland, all but one came to Canada.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; December 22nd, 2020 at 07:05 PM.
Funny, not much older than me, my oldest is 21.
Sounds like you have alot of ties back in Brandon too. My brother and nephew live there.
As for the patch, going well. Lots of work up there for next few years. Sending natural gas from Groundbirtch BC to Kitimat BC. Load up on tankers and ship overseas.
Well we getting way of topic. Lol
so just a little idea. Hot glue is pretty thick and wont grind off down to metal real fast if you hit it, you can put a thin bead of hot glue on the seat to protect it plus it comes off really easy with the little lift spray they sell. I do a little PDR work in the body shop and sometimes use the hot glue tabs for small dents i use same tools and techniques for aluminums body repairs even when they will call for a full repair ( non paintless repair) i can tell you from experience you can hit the glue with 36 grit grinding disc which is very aggressive and it will take a bit to go down to metal. Just an idea. I know the carbides are aggressive but the hot glue should be a good buffer between the seat and carbide,
Funny, not much older than me, my oldest is 21.
Sounds like you have alot of ties back in Brandon too. My brother and nephew live there.
As for the patch, going well. Lots of work up there for next few years. Sending natural gas from Groundbirtch BC to Kitimat BC. Load up on tankers and ship overseas.
Well we getting way of topic. Lol
My thread, so it is Ok. Good to hear. Pretty quiet for the Oil Field here.
so just a little idea. Hot glue is pretty thick and wont grind off down to metal real fast if you hit it, you can put a thin bead of hot glue on the seat to protect it plus it comes off really easy with the little lift spray they sell. I do a little PDR work in the body shop and sometimes use the hot glue tabs for small dents i use same tools and techniques for aluminums body repairs even when they will call for a full repair ( non paintless repair) i can tell you from experience you can hit the glue with 36 grit grinding disc which is very aggressive and it will take a bit to go down to metal. Just an idea. I know the carbides are aggressive but the hot glue should be a good buffer between the seat and carbide,
That sounds like it may work. Just keep adding glue once you worn down a spot.
You would be hitting it with the carbide, just the shaft.
A double lipped piece of rubber could work, but good luck in finding something like that.
As the patch, anything small inch is slow right now.
But once these 2 big inch jobs are finished, will assume be alot of small inch work again.
Ours in 48 inch pipe, 25 to 31 thousand pounds per joint.
Good to hear, drilling is slow around Virden. My BIL who has ran drilling rigs for years got his 1A, not a good sign. Of course it would help if my Wife's Sister wasn't useless. My Wife made $92,000 this year, she made $0. I have to decide what I should do to these. I am working with Mark on this build, more to come.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; December 23rd, 2020 at 04:48 PM.
Cutlassefi and myself have something in the works for the heads. So I put them back together for the temporary 350 in the 70S. Cars have to run or they need to leave my property. Here are some better pics of the ports as they were machined.
December 22nd, 2020, 04:30 AM
